Rick Owens SS14

[Faust]

These were like extra shiny, almost chrome. I don't remember seeing that on samples and I am starting to wonder if I was just hallucinating, but I don't think I was. I did not get into the zipper nitty-gritty (a shameful thing for an SZ member) but next time I'll do a more careful inspection.

[messenoire]

can someone write rick and please tell urge him to return to the older season zippers so i can buy something with zippers again instead of continuing my seasonal protest? god damn it.

[cyberthom]

can someone write rick and please tell urge him to return to the older season zippers so i can buy something with zippers again instead of continuing my seasonal protest? god damn it.

same here.. it's a bit depressing how the materials changed to stay competitive.. techno fabric which used to be around 80% cotton and 20% polyester now is 40% cotton and 60% polyester.. zippers are flimsy aluminium ones rather than the chunky raccagnis.. buttons are plastic rather than the beautiful leather ones and shoulder straps have been removed entirely..

[Shucks]

^this is misinformed whining. there are plenty of beautiful fabrics available for tons of styles and lampos (if that's what they are for spring - haven't checked live yet) are def. not low quality zips. as for leather buttons - i hate brown buttons on black fabric.

[LOVE]

Some things are better, some are worse some stayed the same..
Vicious has 100% silk jersey for men which is the first I've seen.

Then again I don't think outsourcing your assembly to Eastern Europe is ever a sign of rising quality..

[Dane]

I have a 100% silk tshirt...they weren't common, but they're floating around.

I don't really believe that the composition of a fabric determines the quality, so I'll hold out on judgement to see for myself.

[jskidder1]

i hated the brown buttons as well, but my biggest gripe is that the last few seasons have used pretty cheap looking plastic buttons. i miss the old beautiful horn buttons from earlier seasons. i think gleam or anthem was the last time those were used.

[AVerdantShore]

Very few people can even tell the difference in quality (for there is none, really--it is more of an intellectual point of stimulus) except perhaps a dedicated set of historical apparel aficionados who might argue the values of tradition, but my main gripe with buttons featured on some of these brand is precisely that mentioned above--at a certain price point, I want buttons that are anything other than plastic. Buttons largely function the same, across the board, but they should be something other than plastic in this particular market, which totes a certain degree of "handmade, artisanal luxury". I know earlier Rick suits occasionally sported some horn and other materials, but damn. This is particularly a huge gripe for me with Yohji and Ann's products, too. Pay the extra $.50-1.00 per button and factor it into your margin of loss. Pay the extra money for better zippers. I'll stop ranting now.

[messenoire]

Some things are better, some are worse some stayed the same..
Vicious has 100% silk jersey for men which is the first I've seen.

Then again I don't think outsourcing your assembly to Eastern Europe is ever a sign of rising quality..

to elaborate on what dane said, i have 2 100% silk tees from gleam aw10. i never wear them either because they are cut so slim. dont even get me started on those ugly brown buttons...

[Shucks]

in this particular market, which totes a certain degree of "handmade, artisanal luxury"

that's your definition of the market, not rick's.

you'd be less confused if you thought about it as the market of "global ready-to-wear brands".

and also, plastics are fucking awesome modern materials - horn is for sentimentalists who enjoy tying their laces under their soles.

Then again I don't think outsourcing your assembly to Eastern Europe is ever a sign of rising quality..

it's usually a sign of rising labor costs.

[interest1]

that's your definition of the market, not rick's.

you'd be less confused if you thought about it as the market of "global ready-to-wear brands".

and also, plastics are fucking awesome modern materials - horn is for sentimentalists who enjoy tying their laces under their soles.

Yes, and every woman wants a cubic zirconia engagement ring.

[Vanna]

[Shucks]

Yes, and every woman wants a cubic zirconia engagement ring.

no need for that. there are flawless synthetic diamonds available for a penny.

[Dane]

Some of my favourite buttons are plastic - ie. cdg boiled polyester's typical orange-y buttons.

[Faust]

Very few people can even tell the difference in quality (for there is none, really--it is more of an intellectual point of stimulus) except perhaps a dedicated set of historical apparel aficionados who might argue the values of tradition, but my main gripe with buttons featured on some of these brand is precisely that mentioned above--at a certain price point, I want buttons that are anything other than plastic. Buttons largely function the same, across the board, but they should be something other than plastic in this particular market, which totes a certain degree of "handmade, artisanal luxury". I know earlier Rick suits occasionally sported some horn and other materials, but damn. This is particularly a huge gripe for me with Yohji and Ann's products, too. Pay the extra $.50-1.00 per button and factor it into your margin of loss. Pay the extra money for better zippers. I'll stop ranting now.

I could not agree more. There is a difference between cost-cutting and insulting your customer's intelligence. The former will still have the customer buying, the latter, you are risking losing a customer.

Shucks, I must disagree with you there. ANY designer who is in the luxury segment of the market should be using quality materials. I don't mind polyester and plastic, but it has to be done well and not look cheap (as is the case with CDG).