Humm, not sure what to think about it, really. It's much lighter than the previous collections, and having lost the edgy theme, now I am kind of adamant about calling this a "collection" (as in a show that has some cohesiveness) altogether. Some outfits are pretty cool though. I like the shoes, too - very Helmut Lang. Here are some looks - the rest is on style.com
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Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
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Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
Humm, not sure what to think about it, really. It's much lighter than the previous collections, and having lost the edgy theme, now I am kind of adamant about calling this a "collection" (as in a show that has some cohesiveness) altogether. Some outfits are pretty cool though. I like the shoes, too - very Helmut Lang. Here are some looks - the rest is on style.com
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist MagazineTags: None
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
Wow. I would have never guessed this is Undercover if no one told me but after looking through the style.com pictures, its still very undercover and gothic in tone. Personally, I think Undercover needs this in order to build some legitimacy within the fashion world. Too much criticism greeted his last collection as a gimmick and the hard undertones needed some breathability. This is an astonding collection IMO. If Undercover and N(N) continue to expand and draw from the broader brush they have been using, I think Tokyo gen-x/y fashion labels will finally start to be regarded as influencial by the global fashion community...
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
I think a lot of this collection is very wearable and definitely more
mainstream. I don't know how well Undercover does for women, but
if it's a slight attempt to go a bit more mainstream to boost sales, I
think it was done decently. A lot of the outfits still maintain a
bit of Jun's touches, with the gloves being the first thing that comes
to mind.
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
[quote user="djrajio"]Wow. I would have never guessed this is
Undercover if no one told me but after looking through the style.com
pictures, its still very undercover and gothic in tone. Personally, I
think Undercover needs this in order to build some legitimacy within
the fashion world. Too much criticism greeted his last collection as a
gimmick and the hard undertones needed some breathability. This is an
astonding collection IMO. If Undercover and N(N) continue to expand and
draw from the broader brush they have been using, I think Tokyo gen-x/y
fashion labels will finally start to be regarded as influencial by the
global fashion community...[/quote]
You wrote what I was thinking, but I just couldn't word it correctly. I agree completely.
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
I am expecting then that the Men's collection counterpart will be toned down, I dearly miss seing boots. Something about 2007 tells me that I won't be buying anything, with N(N), Cloak and some others dissapointing me. Perhaps a chance for me to discover indie labels that have been lurking somewhere or a chance to finally save money. [:D]
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
This is interesting.
By CATHY HORYN
Published: October 3, 2006
PARIS, Oct. 2 — Since the spring collections began,
nearly a month ago, designers have been making reference to the clothes
that Olivier Theyskens did for Rochas — the couture sacks, flounced
jackets and other Parisian gestures. Some of these references feel
halfhearted, a case of playing catch-up now that Mr. Theyskens has
moved to another old house, Nina Ricci. But feeble or not, they
represent an uncritical acceptance of his methods.
On Monday, though, at the start of the French collections, someone
finally called the fashion world’s bluff. Jun Takahashi, the nimble
mind behind the Japanese label Undercover, sent out a spoof of the
practice of reviving old couture looks, as well as old houses. And
Rochas wasn’t the only refurbished brand in Mr. Takahashi’s sights.
There were also Lanvin, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.
The
clothes were so beautifully done that it took a moment to grasp that
Mr. Takahashi was commenting on the ability of editors to look at
nonsensical shapes and fall in a faint over them. Perhaps it was a
sheer black dress with a hem swinging like your grandmother’s lampshade
that set off the grins. But from then on you couldn’t look at a
flounced jacket or a dress hem strung with gold chains (a nod to
Chanel’s chain-weighted jackets) without feeling slightly ashamed that
you had participated in this folly of reviving old bones.
Mr.
Takahashi displayed magisterial wit as the models stepped onto
pedestals and paused. There were sheer silk tunics with matching
underpants and black over-the-knee stockings, and loose smock dresses
with ruffles and pearls (shades of Lanvin). Nearly all the clothes were
sophisticated and wearable, which saved the collection from being a
rant.
But the finale was a definite touché: dresses and jackets
made from fluttery cutouts of bones, and a purple satin cape made from
a virtual boneyard of tiny three-dimensional skulls with evil
rhinestone eyes.
...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
/\ Holy crap, is that what it was in the end?! You couldn't tell from the pictures. Hmm, if she is right, this becomes a more interesting show. Sounds a bit contrived though...
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
You can see a little bit in the close-ups. I agree it's rather contrived, but clever, and exquisitely done. I wish Cathy Horyn weren't so bloody smug about everything.
from Getty.
...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.
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Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris
i actually really liked this collection a lot (and i loved the a/w collection, which everyone hated). i agree it may be too different too soon but i think there are a few pieces that are still very much 'undercover'. & i agree with what djrajio has said.
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