Ann Demeulemeester Mens FW08-09 Paris

[laika]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09



I think it's gorgeous, in a decadent, dusty, Old World sort of way. All the purples and burgundies, and the royal blue with brown, remind me of YSL. [64] My favorite looks are the ones that suggest a bedgraggled dandy...there is something very haunting and romantic, almost anachronistic about them.[64]

Apparently, the prints were inspired by flowers from her garden.

[laika]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09



Here's Tim Blanks' review:

January 19, 2008

Every so
often, a movie comes along that looks like a dead-cert fashion
inspiration. To ardent fans, Todd Haynes?s Dylan deconstruction I?m Not There
seemed like one such. But so far this season, not a glimmer of
Dylanophilia, at least until Ann Demeulemeester set her show to
multiple versions of "Knockin' on Heaven's Door" by everyone from
Antony and the Johnsons to Patti Smith (no Ann without Patti) to Bob
himself. Backstage, Demeulemeester talked about being inspired by the
song's uplifting, positive vibe. In actual fact, it's rather a wearily
resigned little ballad, which meant it was perfectly in tune with the
Ann of old. A reminder of that Ann was provided by the opener of her
latest collection?a scrawny preacher man in a shrunken crow-black
suit?but what followed was as uplifting and positive as its inspiration
wasn't. She created prints from the blossoms in her own garden, toned
them in dusty pink, purples, and lilacs (like the hydrangeas she stuck
in hat bands) and cut them into jackets, shirts, pants, and waistcoats.
Another print looked like candies. Such uncomplicated sweetness was
something new for her.

But Demeulemeester?s signature
proportions?long when you expect short and vice versa?prevailed, though
the complicated layering was much lighter than it looked. Technical
feats accounted for the feather-lightness of Mongolian lamb coats and
jackets (the fleece was sheared and manipulated in artful ways). The
same airy movement was duplicated by the fringing spilling from
pockets, dripping from hat brims. And the collection?s defining piece?a
waistcoat with a big crimped collar?acted as a flattering frame for the
face. Call it consistency of vision, or whatever you like, but the
peculiar beauty of such flourishes has turned Demeulemeester?s shows
into a high point on the Paris fashion calendar.

? Tim Blanks

[Faust]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09



That silver coat in the last look Laika posted is really beautiful. She is borrowing some cuts from her genius FW04 collection - I have a jacket from it with the same double lapel.

[CHRIS]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09



thank god she's come to her senses. this is amazing! and surprisingly, i love the prints. im not quite sure if my newfound dries obsession has anything to do with this, but still, the looks are so undeniably ann, and the boots / waistcoats (always my favorites)are great once again, so im really happy.

the only thing that could be better than this is the women's collection. hopefully its more on the level offemme / not sofemmejunya, rather than just a goth version of anthropologie.

ps, look at this waistcoat.

[64]

[danga00]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

The first thing that struck me was how great the boots are. Actually, I've come to really like this collection after viewing it a couple times. The prints/fur, however, it definately could have done without.

[voltaire's anti-defamation league]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09



i wish this was the fucking s/s 08 collection. i would wear the last outfit everyday in the summer. even know u could still come pretty close based on whats already out there its so slick....especially from the back mmm.

[Faust]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

Ann looks splendid in her clothes. [64]

[sbw4224]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

I ran into her a few times in Antwerp - she was wearing a long leather trench and looked great in it. Tiny woman, but she has quite a presence.

[voltaire's anti-defamation league]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

i dont think any designer comes slightly close to ann when it comes to pulling off their own stuff. its funny, my mom is always like 'youre stupid for spending so much $$ on this stuff youre gonna be old and ugly one day blah blah...' and im like are you crazy if i look half as good as ann or patti i'll be just fine.

[winQ]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

^ yohji! the man looks better in his clothes than most of the models on his runway show.

[mass]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

yes but on the contrary yohji is one of the few who could pull off yohji... :D

[casem]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09



I know this is old news, but I've had this image as my desktop pic for the last couple days, and I just wanted to say, this is utter perfection:

[Faust]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

the hats were really distracting.

[voltaire's anti-defamation league]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

i actually loved the mens and womens hats. i actually hope the one mens one actually comes with the little flower i dun care id buy it for sure.

[casem]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 08/09

The hat doesn't bother me here so much, it give me the impression of some dark southern mourner with the fringe in his face like a veil, the purple version is a bit questionable though.