Julius Men FW14 Paris

[#ruin]

whenever i see long down coats i'm reminded of arsène wenger :[

solid collection though, liking this look in particular:



i've noticed julius is catering a whole lot more to the andro crowd than ever before now, wasn't a woman on the runway for them recently too? i wonder why.

[Sombre]

I think this is great. My favorite collection so far. Good call messenoire on the pagoda shoulders. I missed that first time around. It's the first time they've done pagoda shoulders, isn't it? I've never worn any of their blazers though so I don't know what they were like previously. The huge puffy collars on some of the jackets remind me of Insanity in Industrial Inc. I think that was the last time they did collars that voluminous. I like it. I love those huge down coats with the impractically long sleeves. They look like comfy sleeping bags you can live in (not the Wenger type lol, #ruin).

The ends of the sleeves on some of the jackets and blazers are new for Julius. I know that's the shape CCP uses, but it was also one of Yohan Serfaty's signatures. I wonder if that's an homage to him.

I think the collection continues the evolution from the more aggressive days of Goth_ik and the like to a more streamlined, but no less distinct, presentation of Horikawa's vision (NOT a Rick knockoff). From what I can see it's an introduction of some new tailoring elements as well, which could be a very interesting move.

[morsto]

Was expecting julius doing julius, but really positively surprised about how clean many of these looks are. I feel like mainline has been converging slightly to _ma recently and many of the simpler pieces here could as well be _ma.
Now, if only I didn't have to endure the japan -> west markup due to needing size 4s I would be genuinely excited. best of season so far, IMO.

[ian+]

favorite of the season. the wigs + the styling are on point. so many bottoms i'd wear and a great 3-d iteration on traditional pagoda shoulders. really pleased to see a current iteration on the drop crotch twisted knit denim, last one i liked was fw11, that is very wearable. the details, that raptor ring, really do it in for me. i cant wait to see the video for the overall mood. i love the hidden wedge in the footwear. i feel like its done really well and not too overtly femme

this

+

his FW collections are so strong. Some new elements here, so many wearable pieces. Best collection along with Cedric.

[Faust]

Are we looking at the same pictures? I thought it was one of the worst Julius collections and the only worse thing I saw in Paris was Damir. Not a fan of the chopped up sleeping bags, shiny stuff, ugly wedges. Bring back the hardcore industrial shit.

[Crowzer]

Video up : http://vimeo.com/84461188

To me, it was a huge disappointment.

[Ahimsa]

Some closeups on SZ-mag by Adam Katz Sinding.

[upsilonkng]

thanks for the video and closeups!! just re-enforces my belief, it's as good as it's been since Goth_ik and I really like ss14 as well so i think Julius is all th way back, like Goth_iK i think it's about something, now that something may be pretty juvenile and goth/industrial but there's a strong sense that it's clearly on the outside and dark and that's what i want from Julius so I'm happy.

watching the video does also show that those wedges are slippery and probably not that comfortable as every model that walked in them looked uncomfortable and one dude almost ate it..twice.

Personally I don't like the shiny stuff either but that shine is closely related to all things goth/industrial so i get it though i won't be "getting" it. Suits look great, some nice leathers, awesome pants and I love the long sleeping bag coats w/ the huge cowl neck, obviously they sized up to give the impression of shoulderless but i'm sure u can just get a smaller size and it'll just be an awesome cowl neck thing.
Rick's influence is everywhere, obviously no one does a better combination of the things that Rick does, sportswear, future wear, androgyny, gothic, geometric shit etc... but I'd rather wear these waxed drop knit denim w/ one of these cowl neck coats than a brown leather onesy pretty much all day every day.

[lowrey]

wow, really surprised by the response, everyone I talked to so far wasn't too impressed. same for me, too futuristic shiny space ninja. the glittery material in particular was pretty bad.

[croatoan]

Seriously. I'm probably one of the biggest Julius apologists but even I can't get behind this.. I cringed when I first looked through this and just waited for the hatred to come rolling in. Really surprised by the response, though. There are some great pieces, sure, and I'm sure there are tons more that weren't shown in the runway. But as a presentation.. Oof.

[Dorje]

The glittery stuff isn't my thing but I think it looks good in the context of the show.

The blazers and collarless shirt/jacket in the 1st 6 pics look nice and are something I'd wear. Also, the long black hooded down coat, that is really nice and looks very warm and functional.

The footwear is disappointing to me though...

[dji]

Are we looking at the same pictures? I thought it was one of the worst Julius collections and the only worse thing I saw in Paris was Damir. Not a fan of the chopped up sleeping bags, shiny stuff, ugly wedges. Bring back the hardcore industrial shit.

^this. Julius is my favourite label but the androgynous dudes trapped in sleeping bags and garbage bags isn't working for me. the skinniness of some of the pants looked good until I saw how shiny they were in the video, the pagoda shoulders look awkward, and all the wedge shoes are disappointing. only piece that looked appeal was the shearling.



still looking forward to the showroom/item shots but so far the collection is a bust..

[MrBushido]

Don't like any of it. It is 'Gakkari' as they would say in the land of the rising sun.

Wearable sleeping bags, i bet a homeless person would find it very usefull though...

I know this guy would

[hommedeguerre]

CLICK HERE to see my RUNWAY shots


CLICK HERE to see my BACKSTAGE shots:

[Rei]

Why so much plastic? With the duvet "coats", shiny things and everything, just bleh. Couple decent looks but didn't really look too much like Julius but guess can't expect anything to stay the same. Just reminds me of rick which I'm not too fond of.