Saint-Laurent Women's F/W 2014 - Paris

[tricotineacetat]

The AW14 collection was much more appreciated than the previous ones. Nothing very innovative but good presence of the archives in that collection.

Big focus on A line dresses and skirts for all budgets. Big lack in terms of jackets in the show ... which are in my opinion still the best part of SLP tailoring.

Good point, I also see that coats and jackets don't seem the focal point in this collection. Then again, I'm sure the showroom had a balanced mix of it all. After all, this was nothing but how he chose to style it for the runway.

Since critiques always cbring up this one point of criticism: Does 'more true to the archive' actually equate with 'more commercially accessible' also? I get the impression that's not necessarily the case. I can see that with Slimane, it's the accessibility through less expensive pieces, such as the jeans, the jerseys, the trainers etc.

[Dreavan]

Yes coats and jackets are definitely not the key message of the runway. However, the strategy of SLP is more likely to the one of Céline at the moment.
I mean you buy few pieces to complete your wardrobe with timeless items like a tux jacket, a caban or a duffle coat, few shirts or blouses and that's it. There is no need to buy one jacket and one coat every season ... Seriously, who does?

Then, you can get the best sellers prints or seasonal shapes depending your budget and your taste and that's it.

About the archives issue, I hope I can agree with you. Thing is the archives fabrics are expensive because decades before, Yves Saint Laurent was a more "couture" brand, less mainstream. So once you get back to silks, embroideries and "lamé" materials, price is increasing. Pants remain the best quality/pricing positioning at SLP.

Then I'm sorry but according to my involvement within the business of fashion, prices are increasing everywhere and on top of that, you should add the currencies reasons (Japan is the worst actually) that are killing the markets.

[Faust]

Again, the strategy is shoes and bags as discussed above. Passed by the Chicago flagship today, and the shoe/bag to clothes ratio is even higher than in NYC flagship.

[BrokenBoards]

Ha! Well to the credit, or discredit depending on how you want to swing it, of Chicago, the average person from flyover country on a weekend shopping getaway to the Windy City doesn't exactly have the proportions to squeeze into most of what SLP has available. It seems only logical the Chicago shop has an even more skewed ratio given its core clientele and locale.

As far as numbers go, YSL's bread and butter as the Stefano era drew to a close was bags and shoes. As much as a handful of articles are hyping SLP to have an amazing sell through, their once core business has taken a HUGE financial dive-bomb to the tune of some flagships struggling to sell even one handbag a day. So can't really knock them for focusing their strategy on reclaiming this former financial glory. Even if you're killing it in the RTW/diffusion line game, you likely won't stay afloat without bags and shoes sales.

And when you get down to the bottom dollar for a lot of brands/designers, the profits from t-shirt sales are simply icing on the cake at that point and just as much of a marketing and publicity tool as they are volume drivers.

[Voltairine]

More like a mix between juvenile hipster and kinderwhore.

he clearly designs for a world where people are 20 forever.

[Faust]

he clearly designs for a world where people are 20 forever.

Yes, and that is the fantasy that sells. In a pre-Instagram world it used to be sex, now it's youth. No one in fashion cares for sex anymore, looking good on photos is a bigger orgasm. Hedi has always struck me as sterile, and this makes absolute and total sense.

[tricotineacetat]

Yes, and that is the fantasy that sells. In a pre-Instagram world it used to be sex, now it's youth. No one in fashion cares for sex anymore, looking good on photos is a bigger orgasm. Hedi has always struck me as sterile, and this makes absolute and total sense.

I think this is finally hitting an interesting bottom line here. I also get the idea that fashion is moving away from the early-2000s (or late 90ies) approach that fashion would have to make the wearer look good and attractive. More in the way of how Narciso Rodriguez or Helmut Lang would design, as garments that would cosmetically flatter the wearer. Here's the man himself summing it up very nicely:



I get the impression that the obsession of 'street style' photography during the show season and the popularity of characters like Anna Dello Russo or Lady Gaga has moved the eye more towards an urgency towards attention grabbing clothes. The latest kitsch-gimmicky pair of Raf Simons for Dior shoes that's impossible to wear, clashing with yet another very recognizable over-the-top statement piece seems to be the way people are looking at fashion. It's less about wearing something because it looks good or befits your personal style.

[tricotineacetat]

I must say what really saves Hedi Slimane every season (for me at least) is that he still gets the proportion and silhouettes right for the most part. I see he's been trying to move away from the fitted, androgynous silhouette he's been famous for towards something a bit looser-on-the-top and skinny on the bottom, but the merchandise in the stores is still perfectly cleaned up, well-cut tailoring in sleek manufacturing that has the cosmetic effect of having your silhouette almost photoshopped in streamlinedness. I see that as an achievement and I do feel that there is a scarcity of that out there (just as much as there couldn't be enough mid-00's Nicolas Ghesquiere pants with that certain flattering lengthening leg and derriere or mean Narciso Rodriguez shift dresses).

[tricotineacetat]

Some examples of timeless, tailored elegance, a la Hedi Slimane:

http://tomandlorenzo.com/2014/03/emma-watson-in-saint-laurent-on-david-letterman/

http://uk.lifestyle.yahoo.com/suits-angelina-jolie-wears-saint-laurent-second-night-231803712.html

http://coolspotters.com/actresses/cate-blanchett/and/brands/dior-homme/media/1444623#medium-1444623

[BodyDouble]

I've certainly enjoyed the last few seasons of SLP for men's at least, because of the classic and simple cuts and options available. Literally something for everyone, and for me it fills most of my basic needs for everyday wear - Sneakers, Jeans, and maybe a classic button up if I'm meeting with a client. The look is just enough to not scream fashion, but still look new and flattering with a few interesting details that the non fashion discerned eye may pick up on.

Of course, this gets boring real quick, especially for me after moving to SLP from Rick/A1923 and is something I moved towards simply due to laziness. That said, I think there's a reason SLP is so popular, not only for the client with a nice healthy bank account, but because it looks perfectly tailored and fitted right on the rack and is easy to throw on celebrities and look great for editorial and promotions. The fact that Hedi can make the most basic items change by a few tweaks here and there based on time period and inspiration just means more profit for the house and for the stylists. It'd be unfair to say Hedi can't cut a great dinner jacket. It may not be as exciting as something from Boris and the likes, but it's a hell of a lot better than most of the other options in the luxury market.

That said, one of the biggest turn off's for me currently is the fact that you can get the exact same looking outfits from Sandro, APC, and Top Shop (Some damn near close to knock off's, but I doubt SLP will say anything about it since everything in their collection is inspired the same).

[Faust]

That said, one of the biggest turn off's for me currently is the fact that you can get the exact same looking outfits from Sandro, APC, and Top Shop (Some damn near close to knock off's, but I doubt SLP will say anything about it since everything in their collection is inspired the same).

Wherein lies all the what-the-fuckness of the entire project.

[BodyDouble]

Wherein lies all the what-the-fuckness of the entire project.

Haha.. Touche!

[Scmick Schmowens]

Wherein lies all the what-the-fuckness of the entire project.

I think this is actually one of Saint Laurent's strengths: it sells looks that anyone can start to put together, unlike many/most high end brands.

Watching the new Vuitton show, for instance, you think: that's a bunch of really expensive, really creative clothes that a girl can't afford and nothing she could buy could imitate the way they look.

Not so Saint Laurent. Any girl can put together tight jeans, heels, flouncy collared shirt, leather jacket, oversized furbish coat, and hat. And then buy a piece or two from Saint Laurent as possible.

[fncyths]

just watched a great panel on this collection. they discuss a lot of what's being batted around here. enjoy:

[galia]

I think this is actually one of Saint Laurent's strengths: it sells looks that anyone can start to put together, unlike many/most high end brands.

Watching the new Vuitton show, for instance, you think: that's a bunch of really expensive, really creative clothes that a girl can't afford and nothing she could buy could imitate the way they look.

Not so Saint Laurent. Any girl can put together tight jeans, heels, flouncy collared shirt, leather jacket, oversized furbish coat, and hat. And then buy a piece or two from Saint Laurent as possible.

disagree on the vuitton. a proficient thrift store shopper could get something similar in terms of silhouette proportion & colour