Rick Owens F/W15 Men's - Paris

[casem]

I just don't understand how you can be a fan of Rick and be scandalized by a little dick on the runway. Is your sexuality so fragile you can't possibly bear the site of another man's member? Gee, I wonder how women feel seeing other female's parts frequently presented and objectified in fashion (and, like, everywhere else for that matter).

I would find it cheap if it were presented as some kind of gimmick for attention. But the way it's done here isn't vulgar at all and seems a natural extension (oh god the puns) of the collection. It's a matter of fact presentation of the body, like in classical sculpture. The only disappointment is that people are going to make such a big deal about it.

[menofoutsiders]

Rick talks about nudity at dazed and confused

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23285/1/rick-owens-aw15-livestream

Initial reaction:

“Sphinx”: Rick Owens cites a French movie set in a military submarine as a point of inspiration for a collection where a built-up pressure causes shapes to suddenly shift. An exclusive mix by Bames – the new trap duo from Texas – accompanied this pressure cooker journey, as we witnessed a gradual shift from strictly controlled uniforms to something quite undone. No pun intended.

Gender bending (not):

From buttoned up military peacoats to upturned knits and capes. Turning things upside down and warping them that way has a consequence that also warps our idea of gender sartorial boundaries – a subject which has been cropping up frequently this season at menswear. Let’s not lazily call this gender bending, as some would with one look at the long length tunics exposing bare everything underneath. By flipping these tried and tested garments, Owens has produced something that is truly conceivable as a menswear proposition. “With the menswear I’m always thinking about decorum. It’s about dignity. They don’t want to look like they’re trying too hard. I’m always thinking of that balance between control and self-discipline. And then on the hand, it could all fall apart. What I do is about control and collapse. And sometimes getting tempted to do one or the other.”

Not nude for nude’s sake:

Hardy-ha-ha. There was a penis on the catwalk. Well, on a few of the silhouettes – and only if you were looking really intently. The headlines will tell you otherwise, but in all honesty, there wasn’t anything overt about Owens’s choice to use full frontal nudity on the catwalk. You caught little glimpses from under the curved hemlines and strategically placed in the toga-esque gowns, but nothing was in yer face. Did it feel obscene, considering this might have been a catwalk first? No. It certainly didn’t detract from the clothes, which sought to deconstruct in the most poetic fashion. When asked why he chose to expose his models, Owens said: “Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture – it packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world! This was our private moment.” Yes, there are many quips and puns to be made, and the show will surely make good media fodder – but the real story here is about freedom. These are clothes that would have looked strange with underwear underneath. So why not let it all hang out?

[Faust]

The only unreleased track in the past that comes to mind is the "how do you feel" track. Not sure what else you're referring to. Things might have been edited to fit a 10 minute show but not unreleased.

How do you feel is the one Black Asteroid mixed? If so, it's out there.

[Faust]

All I heard in my head after this was the lyrics "respect the cock" from some rapper.

[delicious_not]

I just don't understand how you can be a fan of Rick and be scandalized by a little dick on the runway. Is your sexuality so fragile you can't possibly bear the site of another man's member? Gee, I wonder how women feel seeing other female's parts frequently presented and objectified in fashion (and, like, everywhere else for that matter).

I would find it cheap if it were presented as some kind of gimmick for attention. But the way it's done here isn't vulgar at all and seems a natural extension (oh god the puns) of the collection. It's a matter of fact presentation of the body, like in classical sculpture. The only disappointment is that people are going to make such a big deal about it.

well, personally i see it exactly as a gimmick for attention, very loud and "in your face". i'll try to explain.

i'm okay with dresses, tees that look like women's, wedges, weird onesies - i just avoid these pieces. it might be someone's favorite side of rick, i understand that, and even though it's not what draws me to his work, i never say shit about it. and i don't mind seeing it on a catwalk if it's done right.

by the way, i really liked the shots rick castro did for moody: looks like art to me - like some perversed, transgressed vision of hell, so distant and alien that i don't mind seeing it.

but when i wait 6 months for a show from my favorite designer and i see dudes walking with their dicks bouncing in a crowded museum - yes, that is something that i find disturbing.

and how it's not vulgar? almost every review i find mentions dicks in the first place. it seems like the core idea. like, forget the clothes - dickz were there, u MUST see it, that's so original and brave.

also, rick said that he relocated to the new area to make his shows more quiet and simple and let the clothes do the talking. and on his 3rd season here he already shocks the crowd like that, showing dicks instead of clothes.

[ryanhast]

All I see is someone who knows how to have fun. Fashion needs more fun and Rick is delivering. I would much rather experience this than the unsurprising de-humanized Julius shit.

[BodyDouble]

I think I found the promo video more disturbing than the glory holes. Cutting a horse's head off with a chainsaw? The suggestion of anal sex from a horse?

Who knows, maybe Rick is sick of being praised by the mainstream and kids and rappers and is letting his ego dominate with a little shock and awe.

I'm no prude, but I personally am not sure i'm comfortable about wearing someones name and picture knowing that's the kind of image he's portraying.

A while back I remember reading the Rick thread from the first few years and Rick had his critics like Zam, simply for feminizing the masculinity of man as well as promoting himself with the self inflicted gun shot images and high heels images. I'm all for ironic juxtaposition and art but this is just disturbing.

Oh, but more importantly, this collection did nothing for me, aside from maybe the footwear and usual RO wear hidden under glory holes and ripped up tarp wear.

[collecting_items]

The only unreleased track in the past that comes to mind is the "how do you feel" track. Not sure what else you're referring to. Things might have been edited to fit a 10 minute show but not unreleased.

the black asteroid track from his SS12....you know the name of the track...and where can i get it?

[stemcell]

that was the laziest rick in years... same shorts and same shoes in every look, a few coats, a few vests and some drapes that didn't even look like clothes - that's it? what's the point of showing 40 looks at all?

and dicks? and that horse video? oh wait

why wear clothes at all, if that's the point? if u live in a cave and all you do is hunting and fucking, do u really need adidas shoes and cashmere coat?

i'm sure the pre-collection will be amazing as always - but i miss the times when rick show was so good that i wanted to fucking "study" it, drooling over every hq pic i could google and trying to take the collection piece by piece. something like limo - damn, will he ever top that show...

yeah I agree with most of your post. Minus your problems with the dicks and horse video, I fail to see how anyone can seriously have a problem with either of those. However your cashmere cave man statement is perfect hahaha. Yea I miss the studying of shows also... For me that was Naska (and of course Crust, Limo, Gleam, those just came out before I was super into rick so they don't have the nostalgic aspect, they are still incredible) and mountain. I must of looked at those runway images a million times. This new one is just boring. Literally my favorite part of the whole collection was.... Rick's little dance moves in that horse video.

It's also interesting that after becoming a customer, not a big one because I can't afford what some people can, it really changes your perspective. I can't help but have my first judgement be quite simple, do I want to buy that? And lately the answer from Rick has been all hard no's. I think my favorite look from this season is the light colored peacoat that appears blood stained with the pony hair trim. It's beautiful. Am I going to spend $3-5k on it? Nope can't do that, so I guess back to yoox to keep looking for random gems from Naska and Mountain.

[stemcell]

I would much rather experience this than the unsurprising de-humanized Julius shit.

Best point. Just needed to reiterate.

[stemcell]

I like what he said about the nudity in the dazed quotes. He can basically justify anything, and will reference whatever random French thing he needs to to do so, HOWEVER, I think what he said about the nudity seems straight forward and honest.

I think the horse video was pretty sort of honest as well. I think parts of it may have been shot a while ago, when they shot the short film about him "A little bit eternal" so it was probably a mix of old and new ideas. But I think of a lot of that imagery actually lands pretty close to what Rick has always been about. Even though the thought of the horse fucking is (almost literally) gut wrenching.

[delicious_not]

yeah I agree with most of your post. Minus your problems with the dicks and horse video, I fail to see how anyone can seriously have a problem with either of those.

well, i kinda liked that video. it's weird, creepy and fun, and it's rick playing selfish cunt which is very typical. the question is "why?". obviously it's not about showing the clothes and i don't think it explains something about his work.... oh wait, i already said why - selfish cunt mode: rick doing rick, rick dancing in his boxer shorts, rick fucked by a horse, etc.

dicks though... already said enough. i like rick clothes to be noble and humble, and i don't see any noble or humble in skinny dudes with their dicks out.

also, i think black turtlenecks and big ass coats that hide you like an armor is what i love the most in his work, so i can't relate to the idea of wearing rick and still being naked (literally).

[Ahimsa]

More on SZ-mag

[ian+]

[jogu]

I've been analyzing the holed tunics like a good lil scientist and I imagine they can be worn in at least 2 different ways. The second holes are ribbed like stretchy turtle necks. That still leaves the first neck opening hanging in the front, though it can probably even be worn backwards if one prefers cock in the ass .
Thus the collection's name Sphinx or sphincter and the close up of the horse's ass in the preview video. Nahh I dont know lol

I'm kinda surprised how much disdain the nudity is getting on here (elsewhere I can understand). I just imagined most of the people here were kinkier and not as prude :(