Yohji Yamamoto women's FW15

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[Illithid Dude]

I've never had an emotional reaction to a collection beyond "I love this and I would wear this" until now. I literally almost broke down in to tears when going through this, which may sound pretentious but it's absolutely true, even if I'm not entirely sure why. Wow. Maybe my favorite collection of all time.

[gawkrodger]

Surprised at the lack of comments on this. It's a fantastic collection

[Faust]

Still waiting on photos, B.

[rider]

Construction.

[lowrey]

sorry, photos are there now... BUT WHY THE FUCK IS THERE NO DISCUSSION ON THIS?

in what has at least in my book been a very strong season overall, this really takes the cake. its beautiful, elegant, partly crazy, I love it.

[Faust]

Cause most people are a bunch of consumerist bitches that just want to be told what they should be wearing so they look cool.

Having said that, I must say that I am not impressed by this and would like to know why you and Verdandi love it. Many outfits look like it's just a bunch of fabric draped over the body - which I hate as it always seems like a cop out. Also not crazy about the velveteen, the jackets seem quite simplistic for a master who has built his career on them. The umbrella and hoop skirts are fine, but somehow don't carry the oomph of the earlier iterations.

[Faust]

Agreed on the Y-3s - was going to mention them but decided I was critical enough

[Verdandi]

I already stated that I absolutely adore this.
About the draping, while I agree that draping seems often to be a cop out like you said, Faust, the way Yohji drapes things is different from most of the other dsesigners do it. I cannot really explain how, because I am missing the knowledge on construction, but when you try his draped dresses on they somehow just seem to fall in the perfect places. A quality quite often lacking when others do it ( Rick sometimes is really good with this as well when he cuts on the bias).

And I am usually not keen on anything velvet because it tends to remind me of gothic stores that smell of cheap patchouli - I really loce it here. Especially the Kimono/Haori inspired pieces in celvet are fantastic and for some reason don't feel the least bit dowdy to me. Quite the opposite.
I watched the pictures come in on nowfashion and had to think the whole time of the comment either Wim or his wife made in Aufzeichnungen zu Kleidern und Städten, about the way Yohji's clothes made you feel protected and safe. This - to me at least - made me feel this way, just by looking at them and that's the beauty in Yohji's offerings to me.

Oh and I agree on the sneaker/whatever the hell that is things. They were the only lowpoint there for me. The lace up boots would have been enough.

[zamb]

sorry, photos are there now... BUT WHY THE FUCK IS THERE NO DISCUSSION ON THIS?

in what has at least in my book been a very strong season overall, this really takes the cake. its beautiful, elegant, partly crazy, I love it.

Looking at the season FROM MENS TO WOMENS, this has been the strongest season i have ever seen from the 6 year period of 1997 to 2003 when all the great designers we know now were coming into their own.

I see a reemergence of what i would call true avant garde fashion. a kind of fashion that is not bound by commerce but where the masters are about separating themselves from the pretenders.

I am so happy to see it, and i am exited for the next 2-3 years

[lowrey]

Many outfits look like it's just a bunch of fabric draped over the body - which I hate as it always seems like a cop out. Also not crazy about the velveteen, the jackets seem quite simplistic for a master who has built his career on them. The umbrella and hoop skirts are fine, but somehow don't carry the oomph of the earlier iterations.

There are a lot of very simple looks, and in terms of pure clothing for example the A.F Vandevorst collection is far more impressive, but as a collection and show this is somehow very touching. I think the "blankets" are more than blankets, for example this. Theres something very serene about that look. I don't mind the sneaker-boots actually, I mean obviously I could do without the three stripes but otherwise there is a cool contrast. Maybe its just the old sneakerhead in me.

So yea, the appeal of this collection for me is definitely in the feeling it created when looking through it, between dramatic and very serene. I can't really explain it too well.

[lowrey]

Video of the show: https://youtu.be/rpkh_dDdPzw (I'm not going to embed this as it will show up super small)

"Yohji City"

With its buildings, its residents, its lights and shadows, its eccentricity and quietness.
The big dresses looked like buildings under construction. The crinolines were made out of metal, wood, plastic, wires and nails, showing through a veil of fabric, making the whole thing look like crash work.
Amy Verner from style.com says: “For all the parlance of garments being well constructed or deconstructed, you rarely hear them described as under construction. But if anyone can transpose the tenuous beauty of unfinished buildings into clothes, Yohji Yamamoto seems the likely choice.”
The buildings are the trees, the skylines are the mountains, none of the architectural monuments are natural but, as far as they’re part of the landscape, they should be considered in equal measure.
In the same way, clothes worn by the residents of a city are to be considered as part of the elements that constitute the urban landscape.
Yohji has always been thinking of the city as a canvas for his collections.
The urban environment requires cohabitation with others and thus, a certain sense of discipline.
Yohji sees that discipline in not disturbing people’s eyes around.
The best way to do it, is to wear black.
The collection was revisiting the history of the “single cloth garment” from Ancient Greece all the way to Medieval Japan.
Each clothing was cut in such smooth curves and lines, dissolving into the HMI pool of light, overexposed onto the white floor.
The citizens of Yohji City were wrapped in beautifully draped fabrics, making way into the canyon of unfinished skyscrapers.