Iris Van Herpen RTW FW15

[aussy]

Image source: Iris Van Herpen Official
Backstage/detail photos: SZ Magazine

[aussy]

[aussy]

[aussy]

And in case clicking the link is too much for some:

For her Fall/Winter 2015-16 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on March 10th, 2015 at the Palais de Tokyo, designer Iris van Herpen explores ideas of terraforming – modifying the biosphere of another planet to resemble that of Earth in order to make it habitable.

The collection explores the possibility of new geographies and our place within them. The desire to reconfigure space finds expression in light performative materials, which interact with the movement of the body, biomimetic structures and saturated spectral colors. The central geometry is the circle, in both silhouette and cut. The spherical shape of planetary bodies and the symbol of a boundless ‘hackable’ infinity unfolds before us in a constant flow of mandala- like forms.

Hand plisseed geometries both follow and frame the body while optical light film belts propose a polymorphic silhouette and challenge our perception of the figure in space.
This season Van Herpen has developed an extremely light, translucent stainless steel weave, hand burnished to imprint a sheen of nebula-like colors, whose infinite variations make each garment unique. Three-dimensionality is imperative to van Herpen, and she continues her research with the creation of a 3D hand woven textile with designer Aleksandra Gaca. One weave like a mineral geology encases the body while the other cushions it with a light linear grid threaded and fringed with a raw edge.

Van Herpen once again collaborated with the Canadian professor of architecture Philip Beesley on the creation of 3D architectonic dresses.

The shoes for the collection were made in collaboration with the Japanese shoe designer Noritaka Tatehana. They are crafted from laser-cut leather and 3D printed translucent crystal clusters.

[KodakII]

There is no doubt that Iris Van Herpen is incredibly talented. The couture shows are epic; however, I have a very hard time adjusting to her RTW. While the textiles appear to be interesting, the silhouettes are pretty safe and very "fashion." She reminds me of Mary Katrantzou in that regard.

I want to like it, but much of it is pretty awful.

[Faust]

While I agree that Iris should explore deeper into the silhouette, the fabrics, treatments, and intricacies of construction are next to none and stand strongly on their own. I would love to see some long, sweeping garments done in those fabrics though - they'd be amazing.

[aussy]

Backstage photos and additional detail shots available via SZ Magazine

I think the RTW collections are still very much Iris Van Herpen, so I'm happy. These silhouettes are often found in her couture collections, under the 3d printed geometry and tentacles. This collection seems to place a greater emphasis on rendering her vision in fabric, which I'm excited to see develop.

I think the only thing about this collection that left me feeling a bit flat was the styling. I assume Iris is used to letting her work speak as singular statements, rather than sending a magazine ad's worth of product down the runway. Because the silhouettes are mostly simple in this collection, the eye easily reads it as something familiar and expected. Without additional layers, jewelry and other accessories to add other points of visual interest, I was at first left with only that impression. But, the detail shots really gave life to the collection from my perspective, behind a computer screen. Each piece is beautiful.

Still, I do agree with the above. Some flowing pieces would be fantastic, especially because they would further distinguish her RTW line from couture and again, continue developing her vision in fabric.

[david s]

I dig it, has a very architectural feel to it.

I see some connection to Balenciaga from the 50s.

Not to rehash old conversations, but I would have put her in charge of Balenciaga after Ghesquiere. At least from an artistic perspective she dares to build a narrative and a vision.

[trentk]

Was FIS part of the soundtrack? (I think I can hear a remixed magister nuuns in this video: http://on.aol.com/video/iris-van-her...aris-518697219 (but its hard to tell))

[Ahimsa]

Backstage photos and additional detail shots available via SZ Magazine

Thanks for linking the post aussy.

I'm reposting it with some images:

[Shucks]

I dig it, has a very architectural feel to it.

I see some connection to Balenciaga from the 50s.

Not to rehash old conversations, but I would have put her in charge of Balenciaga after Ghesquiere. At least from an artistic perspective she dares to build a narrative and a vision.

i think the whole point of booting out ghesquière and putting wang in charge, was to avoid narrative and vision.

[galia]

That first Fortuny type of gorgeousness in Ahimsa's post above is stunning, thanks for posting detailed shots

[david s]

^Shucks

true that ... it's all about the merchandising