Rick Owens Men's S/S 2016 - Paris

[stemcell]

Thank god, I don't think I could bear another page of conjecture on shirt material.

Oh conjecture shmushectuer. I was right. Were you already at the showroom or is that tomorrow? can't wait to hear more thoughts on it in person.

[casem]

Haha, I was just teasing a bit about how almost all discussion so far has been about this material (can't see the forest for the trees syndrome). Anyway, about the collection, I like it! I can see it as an extension of ideas presented in the past few seasons but it's getting more and more refined and convincing. The draping and layered effects are really nice.

I love how you can follow a clear line of thought from one collection to the next but always evolving so that if you compare collections from several seasons apart you may not see the connection. It's a very organic process where new ideas slowly evolve and become part of the design vocabulary.

Oh conjecture shmushectuer. I was right. Were you already at the showroom or is that tomorrow? can't wait to hear more thoughts on it in person.

[Ahimsa]

More on SZ-mag

[Faust]

Oh conjecture shmushectuer. I was right. Were you already at the showroom or is that tomorrow? can't wait to hear more thoughts on it in person.

t -2hr

[mrbeuys]

Quick report back from the showroom.
The snakeskin shirts and jackets are treated with chrome to achieve the translucence. They're quite amazing in person but also quite far out of my price range. There's a new lamb leather which is fantastic, very substantial but soft. Sock Ramones are now uniform without the toe cap and come in a beautiful new beige colour, with matching soles. Also come in orange if that's your bag. The Adidas high sandals are ridic but fun. The jackets, especially their treatment are wonderful. I personally don't like the overtly military details but they also come more plain. The stuff with the orange metallic strips are just too garish.
Long sleeves with the optional sleeves are super nice. There have been some subtle changes in design for the Adidas trainers.
All in all I thought it was great.

[stemcell]

They're quite amazing in person but also quite far out of my price range.

Please. I must know. Over $4k for the shirt? $7k? $12k?
Also serious question, notice any return to blazers off the runway? Besides the basic black 'soft ones.' Like a translucent blazer? I always ask this. I'll never stop whining about how I miss Naska.

There would be nothing more wonderful than putting a sheer snakeskin leather blazer over an old sweat stained white silk tommy bahama bowling shirt. Swingers, 1996. Elevated to the highest possible level. My dreams. My wholesome wholesome dreams.

[Nickefuge]

Did Rick really put this hideous metal thing on the back of the Geobaskets?
How are the hole-tops in person, is the layer underneath attached or do you wear a T underneath them? Any significant changes to other staples?
Thanks in advance!

[Faust]

The layer underneath is attached.

There is A LOT of good stuff in the main collection, drkshdw, and precollection.

Some observations:

Mainline: - The outerwear is top notch. I liked most the 3/4 coats with military details that Rick alluded to in the press release. There are different versions of these - the two I loved best was black on black with a bit of a flair (it's cut on the side) and contrasting sleeves from a very light material (not sure if it was silk or cupro), and the silvery gray that Rick does so well.

There are also many more bags than before - I think someone mentioned something like it before. They were awesome all around, particularly the women's that hewed close to a classic rectangular shape and totes. One tote version had a nice braided detail that went from the body and into the handles. Some of them featured the logo, for the first time if I'm not mistaken.

The new boots are kick-ass but real fucking heavy. Wouldn't want to try walking in your shoes.

DRKSHDW - don't know where to begin, so much good stuff - probably the strongest DRKSHDW iteration to date. I guess the main highlight is that there are many variations on the worker jacket made in different, contrasting fabrics. Really cool. The new denim with sleeves has side pockets and is flawlessly executed.

There is also an absolutely brilliant black grossgrain light 3/4 coat with rivets. The grossgrain is very fine. It's simple, but so elegant. In love.

In general, mercifully, the sleeves are shorter on a lot of outerwear in all the collections. There is a memphis short.

PRECO - not much to say there. There is a new geo in black leather that is definitely much better than this summer's disaster.

Don't ask me about geobaskets or adidas, cause I don't care.

[mrbeuys]

The ones I have seen - actually only the socks where out - definitely had the detail on the back.
And the snakeskin shirt is €6k

[LOVE]

There is also an absolutely brilliant black grossgrain light 3/4 coat with rivets. The grossgrain is very fine. It's simple, but so elegant. In love.

.

If it's the same cut as the waxed denim one in the editorial that was recently posted, we're probably going to have the same jacket :D

[R C W M]

Thanks for the write up Faust. With the combat boots, is there different leather treatments available or were they pretty uniform?

[Faust]

There was only one version on display.

[unwashed]

The combat boots do look really good! I liked a lot of the silhouettes and the long sleeveless coats. But this mint and orange colors Looks like failed samples that were sold at this outlet site from a few years back.

[scanner]

The more I look at this collection, the more I love it. I didn't really give the military jackets too much thought because they are so different from the original thing, but the design is so well thought out and unique and pushes the envelope of normalcy that I have no doubt they will become iconic pieces.

[stemcell]

I love this collection. Those colors, the mint and orange/red, are pretty much direct references to Steven Parrino pieces, as is the whole collection... so I feel like that is why those choices were made.