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"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
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The first Browne show in years that hasn't completely amazed me. I am sure it's stunning in person but I miss the lunacy.Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off. -
AgreedOriginally posted by mrbeuys View Post
for the last 4-5 seasons he has been ALONE at the top of the ladder.......Im nit sure I like this, but he has been so good I can give him a pass this season.....“You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
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Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
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^^Also agree with both of you. I have become a nearly religious Thom Browne the past few seasons and try to find the insane pieces to wear and love but this season I'm not sure. I do like one or two of the suit pieces there and kinda want to like this, but even the textures aren't as amazing as usual. Anyhow, as Zamb said, I'm sure it'll be badass in person but not sure as of yet...Comment
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This is close to Japanese minstrelsy. Like wearing black face Amos and Andy style, no?
If you don't think so, please explain how it's not.
It's definitely copping a cultural identity...it's a kabuki minstrel show...that's the only way I can explain how dumb and borderline offensive I think it is.Comment
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Lmao dude what are you talking about, you don't even live here. By your argument every Japanese person wearing western clothes is white face and racist. Are you aware that the second flagship ever opened was In Aoyama, Tokyo? Some of the largest consumers of the brand are Asian. I have no figures to back this up but just street observations and the fact that it shows up consistently in second hand stores. A large chunk of the company is Japanese owned (Cross Company) and a majority percentage of garments are produced here so...Originally posted by unwashedOriginally posted by AhimsaComment
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this ss16 seems less colour tone than previous spring/summer showComment
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but Defender, why would it be offensive
designers draw inspiration from all different geographical regions and sources all the time........
Maybe it doesnt work here, this season, and i cant even say that without looking further into the show
but even if it fails, he still took risks and push himself into new territories and i will always give my respect to a designer for that.....“You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
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Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
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I think Thom definitely understands the culture(s) he's showing, it's not some streetwear brand putting a Navajo print on a t-shirt, this is art. I think to suggest that he isn't familiar with the ideas of cultural appropriation is kind of silly.Comment
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Also agreed. And I did see it in person.Originally posted by mrbeuys View PostFashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist MagazineComment
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more photos: http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/s...ar/thom-browne
Some information about the concept:
A teahouse sat in the middle of a field, surrounded by scarecrows in kimonos. Every so often, the shadows of hawks chasing sparrows raced across the ground. Then the sliding screens of the teahouse opened and four geishas emerged, spectral, monochrome, crowned by Stephen Jones' swooping, sculptural headgear. At a glacial pace, the geishas moved around the room, releasing the scarecrows from their kimonos, revealing ensembles of surpassing complexity. We were once more traveling in Thom Browne country.
With his partner, Andrew Bolton, caught up in his curatorial duties for the Costume Institute's China exhibition, Browne's thoughts also turned East, but to Japan, a country that is dear to him. Its attention to detail, its respect for the artisan, and its passion for craft reflect his own ethos so closely that he felt today's collection was one of his most personal. And he finally took the long-overdue step of itemizing his outfits on a handout, like so: "Patch Pocket Sack Suit and Overcoat hand-pieced with plain weave wool, pinstripe, and wool chalkstripe fresco in Mount Fuji motif—Kimono in Mount Fuji chenille yarn jacquard." While those few lines scarcely did justice to the extraordinary work that went into the kimonos (they will be stored in the archives for an exhibition some time in the future, Browne supposed), they did at least point out that the tailored items were not embroidered or intarsia-ed. A collage of fabrics was pieced together by hand to form the image on each look. Browne used his manufacturers in Japan to do the work, the only people in the entire world whom he felt were capable of realizing his obsessive vision.
Browne said that each suit did in fact tell a story, but in the broadest way. Every folkloric motif you might associate with Japan—the samurai sweeping his staff, dragons, cranes, chrysanthemums, Fuji, flying geese—was put together in tones of gray. In presentation, this soothing symphony bordered on the soporific, as the designer's models shuffled in their traditional Geta sandals and Tabi socks toward their date with destiny in the teahouse. It's a smart move on Browne's part to stage his shows at such a stately pace because it forces focus onto the craft of the clothing. And here there was more than enough craft to reward contemplation.
The models, with their white skin, black lips, pomaded hair, and tiny dark glasses, looked like a mad scientist's efforts to create a master race in an old black-and-white movie—or maybe distant relatives of David Bowie in The Hunger. Browne seems to prefer these passive automatons as clothes hangers for his designs. While such a decision certainly emphasizes the otherworldly preciousness of his work, one could also look forward to seeing it in this world, living, breathing, and rippling with movement."AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOGComment
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Soporific is the right word. I literally almost fell off my chair nodding.
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist MagazineComment
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wow that bad huh.....From my computer screen it still looks like a very strong collection. TB still remains a master of theatrical presentation. The garments themselves might be weaker ( traditional TB silhouette with some embroidered patterns slapped on top). Isn't there however a case of this being good but just paling in comparison to previous shows(fw15 was probably my favorite collection from him)? Theoretically if a brand new designer presented this collection as his first, he would be praiseworthy wouldn't he?Comment
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The good thing about Thom though is as long as he's involved, I imagine it won't happen for two seasons in a row and it's mainly bad because all his other seasons are like 15 out of 10.... So I don't think it'll be the decline of his creativity because clearly he's not trying to conform in his runway shows.Comment
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This "gives me the 'orn". Continuing from AW15, TB takes a small step towards the quotidian, while playfully transgressing. Tone back the fabric marquetry and you have some powerful new takes on the teddy boy elongated box cut, over drain pipes.
OK it doesn't have the WTF of Munsters in NFL Armour, but that was never a viable proposition off the catwalk. This is.spinning glue back into horses. . .Comment
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