Ann Demeulemeester Men's SS2010 Paris

[Faust]

Ok, checked it out in person, and I must say that I have mixed feelings about the collection. Styling definitely made it look better. There are some beautiful jacquards as usual for both pants and jackets, but most of it Ann has done better in other collections. There are very nice usual knits and tees, as always. A lot will depend on the buyer here. It will be easy to fuck it up.

[andrewislasorad]

After looking at the larger HD images I still don't see too much here. Some of the more extreme accessories really seem to sell the runway presentation but im not sure how they would work out of that context-leather cummerbund or a chain vest? But without that the clothes look pretty stagnant and minimal.

I think the comment that the collection looks dated is right on, I feel like this collection belongs somewhere around FW05-SS06

[Faust]

We still have FW09 :-)

[Avantster]

Definitely not her best. I like the purity of colors, but combined with the almost clinical cuts it really does not move me. Maybe I need to see a video or the fabrics in person, but where is the Ann's romantic warrior poet?

Btw on the dated comment, some of the cuts actually look similar to blazers seen in her first menswear collection.

[Servo2000]

Faust - do you really find this to be much less feminine than Doma? While there are obvious pieces that seem feminine here I get a very strong 'womanly' sensation from the cut of the pants and especially the styling. As someone mentioned elsewhere in terms of styling the more bare-skinned Doma models seem to harken more to japanese fishermen or other cultures of men who use softer fabrics while these Ann models without their shirts seem more apparently feminine.

[Faust]

Yes, I do - you can wear all of this in a very masculine way - just substitute these model boys in your mind for men. There is softness here for sure, but I would not call it femininity. Ann said that she wanted reflect the pull between innocence and aggression in this collection.

[Faust]

Agree about men in cardis - I was talking about tailoring. Ok, we can agree that this is not a strong collection.

[dontbecruel]

So that's offical? No banning or "fuck you"s for not liking it?

[sound&vision]

I think the casting may have had a bit to do with it, of course anyone that waif-ish is going to look a bit more feminine.

[justine]

i just wanted to say that sometimes it is fantastic to have something that is not strong, lacking in ideas or concepts, something that doesn't build an imaginaire.

[asho]

this is interesting...ann does old raf rehash?




take a closer look at this blazer.
and now this



the lapel and the lack of pocketflaps, the narrow shoulder and strict padding single button. I own a raf blazer from 03 and wear it almost daily and this is almost identical.

and i can see a quaint similarity to rafs siddhartha collection in the colour palette and overall appeal. the shirtlessness, robes , the whole 'innocence..aggression'..echo the late raf's sentiments.

I thought of raf as well when I first saw the collection. just need to minus the shoes and move outdoors.

The

[asho]

fuck you too.

was meant to defend rather than attack. not sure why you insist on being so aggressive.

[justine]

it is also fanastic to take a good poop :P

right...yeah...okay...thumbs up.

[Faust]

was meant to defend rather than attack. not sure why you insist on being so aggressive.

well, i don't like to be called a barking dog, even if it's just a visual.

let's face it, NDF's comment was a clear provocation. it's one thing to say that Ann did a bad collection, but a completely another thing to say that she's becoming like KvA. She is one of the few successful independent designers who has integrity left - let's not kill her along with Raf.

[Faust]

So that's offical? No banning or "fuck you"s for not liking it?

DBC, you know i like you, but sometimes your blinding righteousness prevents you from differentiating my actions. Maybe if you participated more (which I always appreciate), your judgment would be more attenuated.