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  • Chinorlz
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 6422

    #31
    Originally posted by Yan View Post
    Well put Zamb. I totally understand the pricing questions but it is conceivable that even at these prices, the designers are making a loss, when you factor in work space, production, staff etc. From a London perspective, that is why so many talented designers do not make it. Unless you are very smart it is nigh on impossible to make a living from fashion, without a beneficiary or business partners.
    Fully agreed.

    The costs of putting together even a very small collection once/twice a year is incredible. Not to mention the amount of time required for materials research, pattern development, sewing etc. etc. Profit margins are small in many of the cases as good fabrics, quality leathers pretty much never come cheap and a new designer/small house doesn't have the buying power to get great wholesale pricing.

    I honestly must tip my hat to those that embark on design as a full means of livelihood. Even with great success, a comfortable life is never fully guaranteed in this realm and certainly very very very few could even be classified as moderately wealthy.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

    Comment

    • neonrider
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2008
      • 150

      #32
      pricing aside, i found much of this to be interesting, sometimes coherent, but perhaps a little overdone and a tiny bit immature. maybe that's the charm of it, though.
      ""assuming the economy doesn't force us to eat the rich and object-tan their hides" -- merz

      Comment

      • michael_kard
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2010
        • 2152

        #33
        leather bag vest thingy seems peculiarly similar to the (questionable) vest below



        or maybe the first one is not a vest... i cant tell from the pics, sorry
        ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
        Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

        Comment

        • Yan
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2008
          • 386

          #34
          Albert

          Originally posted by Chinorlz View Post
          Fully agreed.

          The costs of putting together even a very small collection once/twice a year is incredible. Not to mention the amount of time required for materials research, pattern development, sewing etc. etc. Profit margins are small in many of the cases as good fabrics, quality leathers pretty much never come cheap and a new designer/small house doesn't have the buying power to get great wholesale pricing.

          I honestly must tip my hat to those that embark on design as a full means of livelihood. Even with great success, a comfortable life is never fully guaranteed in this realm and certainly very very very few could even be classified as moderately wealthy.
          I think you deserve a lot of respect and credit for the way you can design/manufacture, whilst carrying on your medical career. I know its maybe an irrelevant point in this thread but I just wanted to say it nevertheless.

          Comment

          • michael_kard
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2010
            • 2152

            #35
            This thread has been quite revelationary for me - with my interest in certain designers being the only association i have with the fashion industry, so many points have been made in respect to stuff id never consider while looking at a piece of clothing.

            also,

            Originally posted by Yan View Post
            I think you deserve a lot of respect and credit for the way you can design/manufacture, whilst carrying on your medical career. I know its maybe an irrelevant point in this thread but I just wanted to say it nevertheless.
            ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
            Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

            Comment

            • Chinorlz
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 6422

              #36
              Originally posted by Yan View Post
              I think you deserve a lot of respect and credit for the way you can design/manufacture, whilst carrying on your medical career. I know its maybe an irrelevant point in this thread but I just wanted to say it nevertheless.
              I didn't see this until this evening. Thank you Yan :)

              You as well should get muchos kudos with your own undertakings and subsequent success!

              Faust and I were talking a few days ago about not only who has been drawn to SZ and the community development therein but how it has served very much as a stage and launchpad for many projects/collaborations/connections.
              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

              Comment

              • tsutsu
                Junior Member
                • May 2009
                • 25

                #37
                sorry to interject this thread, but I have no idea who Misomber Nuan is, apparently he is local (I live in Singapore) and based in Berlin, but nobody has heard of him here (people in the local media and fashion industry and including the more eclectic underground shops here...and these are the people who know a lot about local and international fashion

                So can somebody please tell me who he is? I just think this sounds very iffy and the clothes look like they are a mis-mash of RO/CCP/Julius all copied and rolled into one. And I cannot stand the copy text on the website describing the clothing philosophy, very pretentious...I can forgive if you are Japanese but you are not, you are Singaporean.

                Don't get me wrong, I like and support our Singaporean designers and some of them are truly good, but no one has heard of Misomber Nuan and he is selling things which cost a lot without seemingly any real cred and hiding behind a 'cult' moniker...

                Appreciate if someone can clear this up and sorry if I have dissed this designer wrongly

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37849

                  #38
                  Originally posted by Chinorlz View Post
                  I didn't see this until this evening. Thank you Yan :)

                  You as well should get muchos kudos with your own undertakings and subsequent success!

                  Faust and I were talking a few days ago about not only who has been drawn to SZ and the community development therein but how it has served very much as a stage and launchpad for many projects/collaborations/connections.
                  word
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • Yan
                    Senior Member
                    • Mar 2008
                    • 386

                    #39
                    Originally posted by Chinorlz View Post
                    I didn't see this until this evening. Thank you Yan :)

                    You as well should get muchos kudos with your own undertakings and subsequent success!

                    Faust and I were talking a few days ago about not only who has been drawn to SZ and the community development therein but how it has served very much as a stage and launchpad for many projects/collaborations/connections.
                    It is well deserved Albert. Thank you for your comments also. Mine has been a very different journey, as the 2 collections I have presented this year and my stocking in Harrods has been done against a backdrop where my Advertising Agency has gone into liquidation, with subsequent hounding by Bailiffs etc, whilst looking after my 3 young children as my wife has been away a lot this year. This year has been one of chaos and upheaval for me. I have been trying to survive in amore mainstream rtw. environment whilst trying to do things my own way, but I am finding that trying to break the mould of how things are traditionally done, business wise, is far from easy and a pretty solitary existence.
                    What I respect most about what you have achieved is the beauty, precision and lack of compromise in your vision, whilst continuing your journey in medicine, which must be so taxing on your time. The fact that you have secured a number of key retailers is even more remarkable considering how hard it is to get a new collection stocked anywhere physical.
                    I guess that sleep is often an afterthought.....
                    I wish you well

                    Comment

                    • Chinorlz
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 6422

                      #40
                      Thank you sir!

                      Your experience and journey is quite incredible!!

                      I suppose I should be off to bed soon after reading your posting (4 am here hahaha)

                      All the best man!
                      www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                      Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                      Comment

                      • Darklands
                        Banned
                        • Nov 2008
                        • 70

                        #41
                        ???

                        Originally posted by tsutsu View Post
                        sorry to interject this thread, but I have no idea who Misomber Nuan is, apparently he is local (I live in Singapore) and based in Berlin, but nobody has heard of him here (people in the local media and fashion industry and including the more eclectic underground shops here...and these are the people who know a lot about local and international fashion

                        So can somebody please tell me who he is? I just think this sounds very iffy and the clothes look like they are a mis-mash of RO/CCP/Julius all copied and rolled into one. And I cannot stand the copy text on the website describing the clothing philosophy, very pretentious...I can forgive if you are Japanese but you are not, you are Singaporean.

                        Don't get me wrong, I like and support our Singaporean designers and some of them are truly good, but no one has heard of Misomber Nuan and he is selling things which cost a lot without seemingly any real cred and hiding behind a 'cult' moniker...

                        Appreciate if someone can clear this up and sorry if I have dissed this designer wrongly

                        My first reaction was to as other SZers clearly chose to do, not even to justify this with an answer. the perplexity of some of your comments, as you admitted, born out of ignorance, are truly baffling.

                        So, because you have never heard of him he is not relevant? He is from Singapore but has lived and worked for years between Hong Kong and Europe, the latter of which he will be moving to full time within months. So it is hardly surprising that you or other 'local shops' and designers in Singapore are not familiar with him.

                        I will leave the comments regarding both pricing and his aesthetic - you are entitled to your opinion, despite the fact that you have never obviously never seen first hand, felt or tried on the garments. How you can be so outwardly critical of something you have never even seen . . . is it the least puzzling.

                        But a point in closing - he was just picked up by the number one showroom in Paris, to show his first real fullscale collection for AW 2011. I wonder if you or how many of your talented colleagues can say that?

                        Comment

                        • zamb
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2006
                          • 5834

                          #42
                          Cambell why do you even bother answering this guy?

                          Obviously this is an idiot with no knowledge assuming that his perspective of how things should be "must be the way it is.............

                          I also detest this growing narrowness of perspective where everything must be seen through the lens of CCP/ MA+/ Rick Owens....................

                          people there is a whole bunch of other designers and a great big fashion industry outside of these people. we may love and respect their work, but they too are 'inspired" by other people before them.
                          Carol didn't invent a black slim fitting suit nor did he invent overlock stitching and a fencing jacket..............he took these things and through his genius made them his own distinct and unique way.
                          MA+ didn't invent artisanal type clothing nor the red cross thats his signature..............Belgian design Duo A.F. Vandevorst was using the red cross logo since long ago. Did MA copy them? I don't think so, because it means something different for him than it means for them.

                          We all gotta start somewhere, and if you dont know the designer, shut up and learn, cause you ain't omniscient..................
                          Sorry to sound so riled up. but just tired of the damn stupidity that goes with some of these "hurry come ups" who have no knowledge of history of context.............
                          “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                          .................................................. .......................


                          Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                          Comment

                          • Yan
                            Senior Member
                            • Mar 2008
                            • 386

                            #43
                            Being a designer trying to make a mark, I can say with all honesty, that any designer who manages to secure stockists on a non-consignment basis and supplies them for more than one consecutive season is worthy of respect irrespective of whether we admire their output or not.

                            I would add the caveat that the designer is not a celeb or backed by personal wealth. This is not that I don't think their output is worthy of respect because in cases like the Olsen twins, they do deserve respect but in a different way to the unknown designer.

                            Comment

                            • tsutsu
                              Junior Member
                              • May 2009
                              • 25

                              #44
                              I did not claim to be talented. Well, this is really borne out of ignorance really, cos I truly do not know and have never touched/seen/felt the fabrics and cuts. Hence, my initial question to ask if someone actually knows who this is (I'm talking about the designer himself and not the moniker. It's fine if you have a pseudonym or otherwise but at least we know who the likes of Jun Takahashi and Takahiro Miyashita really are, although their labels are not known by their names.)

                              If you are talking about talented Singaporean designers (whether mass or the really unknown ones) I can point you to a large number here. Singapore is really a very small country, so if you make it big (like the defunct Song and Kelly, Woods&Woods, AllDressedUp, Ashley Isham, Andrew Gn) or even the new upcoming designers like Sundays, sifr, benWU, iamwhoiam, etc. people will know as the industry is very small. Even if you are based overseas, you will be known by some, no matter how cult or unknown you are. And then you have the really unknown, but definitely not less acclaimed designers like jewelry maker Argentum (Shing Lee), which not many have heard of but she is formerly trained and you can see that her works are original, perhaps inspired maybe, but definitely original. Google some of these and you find something at least. These people are known by the media and local shops and I stress to different degrees of course but at least someone somewhere knows. But Misomber Nuan...zero. comes up zero everywhere. NO info. Dont' misunderstand, people are not criticising him, just that nobody knows who he is. And now he appears suddenly with tops costing 1000euros.

                              I do not know alot of these designers personally and they are not all to my taste, nor am I promoting anyone, but people know who they are, to a certain degree. But Misomber Nuan, again I cannot stress enough seriously I can't find anything. Also, the problem with this guy's work is, it is suspiciously like some labels we have seen, I'm sure you will agree to a certain extent.

                              Don't get me wrong, if this guy is for real, I would love to hear about him. But you have to understand, there are a lot of pretentious and 'fake' designers here who just copy aesthetics (they are not trained in any way, just 'design' the clothes and have them made in a shopping centre's tailor shop, and it is not the way RO does it either like overseeing production in Olmar and Mirta. We are talking about tailoring aunties making them. Over here, you can bring in mags or lookbooks to a tailor and say you want something that looks like say a julius top but change it here and there abit and voila, your own creation! You have to understand this is asia and we are very prone to tons of copies and fakes.

                              Ok, I have written too much but I hope you can understand that I am not trolling and can understand where I am coming from. I just do not wish to see people cheated by a 'designer' who is not for real.

                              Comment

                              • Faust
                                kitsch killer
                                • Sep 2006
                                • 37849

                                #45
                                Why should they be cheated? Consumers vote with their wallets.
                                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                                Comment

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