Kazuyuki Kumagai Attachment SS10

[chicblood]

Classic pants~

[Acid, Bitter and Sad]

/\ Lookout, we've got another one of those..

[Sergei_S]

I've said before a lot of times and I'm gonna repeat it again KKA is my favorite japaneese designer-brand. With this collection I love it even more. Hope to see some more detailed pictures, specially the jackets

[tricotineacetat]

I'm curious to hear how other fellow SZ members able to see the FW'10 collection in Paris perceived the development of the collection - I wasn't too farmiliar with the line, but was immediately sold by the superiority of craftsmanship, material and finishing.

I really like how the collection manages to catch an aesthetic notion that feels 'of the moment', while at the same time, avoiding any too obvious references or clichées about deconstruction or gothic fashions. I could see how these clothes could easily be embraced by a diversity of people, yet allowing for an individual expression, depending on the styling and interpretation, as well as to completely make sense in ten years time, when the notion in men's fashion might be entirely somewhere else.

[Faust]

I think Attachment is easily forgettable. The guy has absolutely no esthetic direction, if you ask me. Again, as garments, some of them are surely nice. As a work of a fashion designer, not much to look at.

[yffet]

lol, what kind of garment is the last shot supposed to be? tube top?

Thx for posting those pics Dji.

KKatachement is one my favorite label.Too much stuff i can instant-cop...

[lowrey]

I do agree with Faust about the direction, its quite all over the place. for example in the current ss10 collection, there are knits and t-shirts that have raglan shoulders and cuts etc which basically mimic old carpe diem pieces. then theres the drapey coats and cardigans, which resemble julius and other japanese labels. same goes for the leathers, some look like julius, the moto collar from the current season is exactly like RO as is the denim jacket. last season there were sneakers that were basically his version of the Rick hi-tops, plus a variety of inspired accessories.

I usually don't like comparing labels and designers, but I think its relevant here because to me it seems like there is a lot of influence from other labels in his work. its quite clear that he is cabable of making nice garments, I own a dozen or so pieces, all which I really like in terms of design and quality as well as fabrics, which are often very nice. but there really isn't any overall direction in the collections, and all these inspired pieces are major turn off.

[CommieRabbit]

Echoing what others have said;

The problem with KKA is a lack of persistent vision.

I have a hard time seeing KKA in the same light as other designers discussed on these forums for the sole reason there's no specific look to his work. This is pretty much how I judge and assess designers. For example, we'd know right off the bat if we were looking at an Ann Dem collection with it's highly distinct poetic old-world aesthetic, Yohji and his use of volume and quirky detailing, or even Julius and it's unapologetic aggressive industrial style. I have a huge amount of respect for any designer than can manage to forge a proper identity, even if it's one I don't think particularly high of.

But what comes to our mind when we think of KKA? Hell if I know. I've seen the dude go from victorian to sleek puffy Rick-esque bombers, drapeyness along with some pseudo-povera pieces sprinkled in-between. It seems theres a lack of philosophy and natural progression in his work.

That said, there are usually pieces in his collections that I enjoy (some killer footwear and outwear usually). And if the opportunity would arise, I'd have no problem with making a purchase. It's just that I wish there more to it than "some nice clothes".

[tricotineacetat]

The guy luckily avoided any such associations this season and produced a collection I would say would be much closer at heart to Jil Sander's minimalist design principles, rather than those of Rick Owens or any of the other designers mentioned here.

What was outstanding was the insistance to uncompromisingly beautiful, high end fabrics and construction techniques that elevate such an almost monastic simplicity out of Raf Simon's tired blandness to actual substance. The archaic yet minimalistic fabrics exuded at the same time a sense of humble warmth and luxury which made the clothes easy and accessible.

These were by any means not runway-covetable, 'fashion' clothes to be talking about, but were falling right into the 'just right' category that a lot of designers hardly ever succeed at getting right (and that are being laughed at as being 'basic'). To me, that is however a quality I find very appealing to buy into, besides all the fast fashion statements that are being made in men's fashion lately.