Haider Ackermann SS11 Pitti Uomo

[ProfMonnitoff]

I don't think moving to Italy did Haider any good. Some of the pieces are nice, but as a coherent collection I don't like it very much.

(pictures jacked from tfs)

[ProfMonnitoff]

[TarHeart]

I agree. Although my expectations were already high for the menswear collection,
this is not at all what I had expected.

Oriental patterns, very bright colours, combined with slippers?
I think it somehow looks messy, and not very sophisticated.

There is just too much going on, in the wrong direction.
I think this is a little bit of a disappointment.

[Who?]

Just looks like silk pj's, Hef would love it.

[lowrey]

I have to agree with everyone above, strange departure from his usual aesthetic. I'm really curious to see how this translated to actual garments on the rack, for example this look could be pretty dope without the bazaar stylz top layer.

[diamonds]

he found a neu niche market - dark high fashion meets italian luxury eurotrash

[Faust]

gothtrash?

[diamonds]

that's a more convenient name for it

[KodakII]

Well there you have it, a nomadic Italian that also happens to be an aristocrat. I think if you strip away the Hugh Hefner styling, the jackets with the signature top-stitching look sort of nice

[Heirloom]

it's a better version of Etro. The palette seems to be sortof similiar in it's shine and ochre tones.

[Castor]

Or a worse version of Dries.

[mononon]

i am really disappointed with haider's menswear. i had a pretty decent expectation, but after these images, i am pretty unsatisfied. like many posted, they look like flamboyant pajamas. i like the overall drape that still gets delivered, but it's just not working...

[DamageX]

I do like some of the pieces, and enjoy seeing the different construction patterns, textures and I like the color palette. However, as for wearing these pieces I probably won't. As a showcase it was enjoyable to look through.

I agree that the womenswear is much better in comparison.

Looking through the photos, I was reminded more of an asymmetrically constructed Judogi rather then pajamas.

[USERNAME]

if you don't have anything constructive to say, don't.

[Visconti]

If this hadn't shown a couple days in advance of fashion-week-proper, I probably wouldn't have gone back to try and pick out points of interest. There's still not much. In terms of influences, aside from that Moroccan Dries show, the robing reminds me a bit of McQueen's f/w 06 with a few of the lapel embroidery tricks from f/w 05 thrown in for good measure. I do like his choice of blue (but not its use) and would be curious to see some separates, but at least in terms of the overall presentation, it seems they wanted and excuse to throw a lavish dinner party, but put the emphasis in location and staging rather than the clothes themselves.