Boris Bidjan Saberi Men's SS11 Paris

[lost53]

^i prefer to keep only one if the second is to come like that... honestly it's the worst garment i've ever seen, even as an experiment i find it ridiculous.

I don't find it ridiculous..... as an experiment.
But I would want no part in such an experiment!

[BSR]

there is no connection between the cut and the fabric's treatment, it's not even part of the BBS usual so-called 'universe', seems to be as a terribly cheap 'conceptual' experience, where conceptual equates unnecessary.

[lost53]

BSR, could you please elaborate on this Boris "universe"?

[BSR]

mmm... not that easy, i guess many people here that know his work much better than i do would qualify it as a postapocalyptic (rugged/used/destroyed fabrics) X skating (bagginess of the pants' cuts, plus certain oversized proportions) X gothic aesthetics (black dominance, drapiness), i remember a nice post by ohwehmir about that...

[lost53]

Cheers, I see where you are coming from.. but I do think the 2nd skin does fit into his collection. He has always had an array of treatments applied to the leather; washed, oiled, distressed, reversed e.t.c so in the scheme of things a neutral leather is not so at odds with his collection (colour aside!). Also with his trouser fabric's, there are new treatments every season. I really consider BBS fabric treatments as key points in his collections. So I see the neutral leather as an extension of his treatment malarky.
Anyway I wouldn't wear the thing, but as a consumer it was interesting to see if only for the fact of showing the rawness of the product.

[BSR]

ah but there is a misunderstanding here, what i'm saying is that i don't see how such a piece integrates in a BBS outfit (and in any outfit), i just find it ugly and badly cut... i don't care about the research process as long as the aesthetics fail to my eyes.

[lost53]

Indeed phrased like that, I am with you. Indeed the aesthetics are paramount, and this does not work.
Like I said I would want no such part in the experiment!!
For the reasons you give... it's ugly!

I was trying to think how the piece could have worked, if like you say it was cut with the fabric treatment in mind.. But I can't!
On a side note has anyone else treated leather in this manor?

[michael_kard]

CCP did it a while back... I also know Augusta did it a couple of years ago, and there's a blazer on Hermes next winter collection too.

[Ivans On High]

I really quite like the transparent blazer. But every one of my friends I showed it to reacted the same way as BSR.



Aside from the grotesque colour, and aparently feel, I think the blazer is cut quite well. Better (or more traditional in fit) than his other blazers.

[hallucination]

my dogs will love them

[Peasant]

Love Boris, but I completely agree with BSR. I appreciate the effort and that he made it. Boris has a particular take on tailored pieces (some see it as a fault) but even if this was the sharpest cut coat out it'd still be a bit repulsive.

I see pieces like this as something the designer does to fulfill something personal beyond just clothing. I know they're all passionate and devoted to their design, collection and craft but I can't image that they see such abstract items as desirable or wearable. Maybe with the exception of Carol. Though he may never feel that. It's as if it's a challenge and I see it as a good way to push one's self.

[andrewislasorad]

It's always hard to comment on a garment having not handled it in person. But I can tell you this piece is exceptional, the production version being far better than the original sample. I own the same piece in cotton and it certainly holds up to the same level of fit. It has a serious weight to it, and once on the body has a feeling that I can only describe as the sensation of being soaking wet. After a minute or so your body heat softs up the leather and it moves about unrestricted, even more so than my cotton one. The construction is totally wild, fully cotton lined sleeves, constructed shoulder, partially double layered in parts, all stitched together which a heavy duty transparent thread. The transparency of the leather works well with a variety of colors, no doubt it is a show piece in it self, but very wearable. I would be all over this jacket if it wasn't for the price, but the execution is nothing short of amazing. Here is a little sneak peak...

[cjbreed]

CCP did it a while back... I also know Augusta did it a couple of years ago, and there's a blazer on Hermes next winter collection too.

Hermes did transparent crocodile for SS11



looks good on her i think

[BSR]

just to make things clear i've handled, and several times, the 'shirt' jacket (and the bag that is of the same leather), not the blazer...

[Peasant]

Wow. Nice detail shot, Andrew. Really helps show it's organic nature and reduces the plastic-like notations. Even-so.. a tough one to pull off. Truly a work of art.