I loved this, to me it's a real testament to the inexhaustability of Junya's imagination and hand - he takes familiar settings and themes and works them to a point where it's beaten into the ground so deep it's come out to some other end that was unrealized before. He works within several key elements and motifs by now recognizable to the point one could say they are "Junya" and not "nautical", "army" or "preppy" anymore, at least not in the sense they are conventionally categorized. Also there is such a great ease and fluidity to Junya's womenswear that is consistently missing from the mens', which always came off a bit too staid and stiff for me despite the technical mastery. This is perfectly wearable.
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Junya Watanabe Women's SS11 Paris
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I absolutely LOVE this. Some of the cutting looks to be quite extraordinary. For example this
is, I think, one piece (apart from the trousers). It looks deceptively simple, but it's a beautiful, thoughtful, subtle, wearable collection. I bought a book on Japanese fashion at the weekend, and there were pictures in it of Junya's early collections, which were much more immediately eye-catching. I've said this before, but I think he takes a lot of elements from his menswear into his collections for women, but still tries to find new forms and techniques in the execution. It's much less show-y now. Wouldn't look as good in a museum, but I suspect that's kind of the point. I will be trying my best to get my wife to wear as much of this as possibe!
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Oh, no, Johnny loves a Junya collection! What's this world coming to?!Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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lol
thanks Brian"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG
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I agree on the second and third look, they look good with the stripes. but in the first one the cut is completely overshadowed by the pattern imo."AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG
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Meh. We've discussed it all before. Junya menswear is what it is - says so in the manifesto on the blue label and that's what he does and does it well.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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I really enjoy this collection. The stripes are a bit visually overwhelming but I actually like the effect they have on the silhouettes. A couple have mentioned that they wish this collection was the same without so many stripes but I think it's the stripes exactly that makes the shapes of this collection truly stand out
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In some cases the stripes do a wonderful job accentuating the intricate cuts, this is something I would expect from Junya. Where the collection disappoints is in the pieces where the stripes are uniformly sized and all in alignment, the opposite effect is achieved, concealing the pattern and making the piece flat. This flattening could have been used in a interesting manner on a complex design, using the stripes to tone down the shape but instead it was used on the most basic pieces making them boring.
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Originally posted by Heirloom View Post... i wish so bad he did for men what he does for women.
Love the translucent blacks in the last section of this show, particularly the first double-breasted one.
And also agree with whoever mentioned that there is a subversive tone to his use of stripes. Slightly reminds me of one of the recent Spring collections by Bernhard Willhelm esp. the clashing patterns of varied size stripes with bits of dying on the edges.
I know affection for Willhelm is controversial on this site, but I can also say the same thing Heirloom said of Junya for Wilhelm: I often wish he would make less of those quirky play outfits for men and more of the thoughtful/interesting patterns, shapes, layering and subtle color work that he does for his women's collection.
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