Damir Doma Men's FW11 Paris

[old]

To me what really sets Damir Doma apart from above mentioned designers is not the anti-fit or volume but rather texture. I really found the richness of textural gradation mind blowing while visiting his store in paris.
I also thought that his use of colour in his previous work has enhanced the texture greatly and the two of them blended into a luxuruous earthiness and all of it seemed just so honest and sincere.

Of course it is hard to judge without actually seeing the garments or having a close-up shot but the monochromatic palette has made it a lot less immediately striking. And if it were to be a marketing decision, I doubt if it would work very well. I mean if I was built a bit taller, I would have definitely gone for his earlier work but probably not this.

[syed]

I think Damir's aesthetic is still clear even with the KVA/Dior-esque tailoring. It is definitely a more economically-minded decision, however if that's what he feels he needs to do, I guess I am just thankful that the collarless shirts and collarless jackets are there. Not too keen on the boots, but stick on some Haider Ackermann slippers and I'm game.

Personally what drew me towards Damir was, for want of a better word, the ethnic influence that has been so strong for the past two collections. When I see those collections, I see East meets West, whether it was intentional or not and it something I can strongly identify with. The slit shorts remind me of dhotis, I see reminders of shalwaars and churidars, as well as shawls and even the hats from last season which to my eye were highly traditional.

Whilst I felt that this editorial was quite costumey, for me, I saw cultural references that I can identify with and really appreciate. It looked like clothes my dad would have worn when he was younger (albeit more fashionable!). The Eastern vibe is something I can't help but see when I look at his aesthetic, and I do hope it continues, because I have never really seen it done so successfully before (we've all seen "Oriental" and "African" collections, but they are way too Grand Tour for my liking). It is definitely not something I see in Silent, which I have always thought of as Damir sportswear, although I really do like that range as well.

Oh and I totally think he should have won the 2010 Swiss Textiles Award, Mary had nothing on him.

[BUMMER]

Thanks for posting video Shucks... Excellent use of Scott Walker's "Bouncer See Bouncer".
Taking a while to digest all the seemingly drastic changes.. Consider this a place marker for now.

[thee_vultures _actress]

seems like damir is having a hard struggle adapting his vision to succeed in the fashion world, which makes me sad, since his uniqueness got lost on the way... if i would see this in a magazine, i would not even take a closer look at it. watching the video i thought the knits and some coats to be interesting though.

it´s strange, because i remember i didn´t like the runway show of fw10 either, but ended up buying three pieces of that collection.

[ledger]

Photographs from the show //

[Heirloom]

uh. someone had the wrong settings. can't see shit.

[Shucks]

antonioli are now linking to this sz thread (specifically ledger's comments on damir) in their facebook updates. sz has been hijacked as a marketing vehicle...

[ES3K]

antonioli are now linking to this sz thread (specifically ledger's comments on damir) in their facebook updates. sz has been hijacked as a marketing vehicle...

Not for the first time, Ebay et al is loaded with SZ pictures -- although some store like Antonioli using it is of a new, well, scale.

[pierce4]

I have been a fan of Damir Doma's past collections and have bought alot of pieces. The only thing is that I think he needs to do is tighten up the label. Looking at the above collection and comments about how there is commercial pressure, I did abit of research on google for 5 minutes...I was able find out that paper rain was the backer, who also are involved in laptop bags. I was also able to ascertain
who the CEO, a quick facebook search brought up that they are involved in this: http://cosmobrandlab.com/website/work.html

This is all fine, but in the information age, if you are building a luxury brand, image needs to be controlled better. The ABC of building a brand is to find a tribe first, which is basically this forum. Then from there things spread out. But the problem with building a tribe is that you need to be very careful, once they commit to your brand they are your best ambassadors, but if they feel that there is something that they don't like then you loose them.

Personally, after reading the above info on google I question are my clothes made in the same place as the ferrari hats? If your competing for custom with Rick Owens, you really need to have things tight.

[Faust]

Can't wait for merz's comments on those quilted jackets.

[lost53]

Good work ledger

I am waiting to see the video for this show, but really liked the images from Ledger. Nice atmospheric shots, cheers.

[Shucks]

Not for the first time, Ebay et al is loaded with SZ pictures -- although some store like Antonioli using it is of a new, well, scale.

i think antonioli is a decent enough store, and i buy from them, but that's kind of bullshit i think. this place isn't supposed to be used that way. they aren't even an affiliate store...

also, it doesn't even make sense since the damir collection didn't really get that much love here.

ps. es3k thanks for uploading music btw. what an ecclectic mix...

[im_parfait]

I think this collection will be a commercial success: the clothes is definetly more wearable than DD used to create!

[The Great Destroyer]

While some may say that he lost his vision/"sold out" with this season I really like this. Sure, some of his older work is more creative but in my opinion most of those pieces work more as art then wearable clothing (at least for me, I have seen people pull of DD really well here though).

I like the knits and the collarless shirts looks great.

[Shucks]

this is from dazeddigital on the fw 2011 collection (will type up another interview and put it in the main damir thread):




Damir Doma Menswear A/W11

Having shifted the focus away from his fluid silk pieces, Doma showed black tailoring and slim white shirts


Photography by Morgan O'Donovan
Text by David Hellqvist

Signalling a new look and silhouette, the Croatian-born designer yesterday launched a look that was different from last season's fluid and draped silks. Focused on a monochrome palette, Doma showed black tailoring and white shirts, which all came in different lengths. The trousers were often of a cigar shape and the shoes came with a substantial sole, giving the models extra height. Knitted leggings - full length and as a shorts added the a more structured and square aesthetic. Leather was prominent but what also stuck out was the vertically quilted jackets and coats. One of the stronger pieces also included a sleeveless knitted leather top, almost looking like mail armour.

Dazed Digital: What was the general idea behind the collection?
Damir Doma: It was to create a new silhouette out of what Damir Doma used to be, and to basically lift it up, as you saw with the shoes. They were height focused and the idea was to almost make sculptures out of the models, to lift them up and to give the trousers volume and space to breath.

DD: There were loads of white shirts...
Damir Doma: Yes I was sort of introducing the white shirt into the brand. It was structured and about proportions, about different kinds of length.

DD: And it was also all monochrome, no colour whatsoever...
Damir Doma: It's a new direction and I wanted to be focused on the proportions and the materials. This was the first step and next I will introduce colour.

DD: Was that a long slim tie we saw?
Damir Doma: Yes it was my tie version, it's basically a really long pieces of fabric that you button in, we wanted to keep it super clean.

DD: Tell us about the padded jackets
Damir Doma: They were quilted leather, and it worked with structure idea - we also had knitted leather tops. There's always so much fluid fabrics in my collections so this time I wanted boxy shapes.

DD: Favourite piece?
Damir Doma: The new kind of tailored collar less pieces and the knitted leather tops.