Rick Owens Men's SS12 Paris

[SHYE_POSER]

I was pointing out the fact that he has played with these proportions for men before. Not trying to associate the dresses to a subculture.

Obviously they are not for every day, but as was said when the floor length dresses with trains where shown @ his women's show, there are people that have places to wear them to.

The kaftan and tailored jacket is a rather traditional silhouette of sorts, but i do like how Rick has his sin on it with the linen mix of the fabrics and the very stark lines.
Gaultier has shown look like this since the 80's, be it in a more direct reference.

[Zenith]

The sense of volume and proportions are just spot on. So many people have gotten the male skirt wrong imo but this is just perfect.


My favorite RO preview since strutter actually. Maybe I'm just a sucker for monochrome.

[upsilonkng]

After watching the video I've done a full 180.. I love it. Looks amazing and though I've said in the last 2 days probably 30 times I wouldn't wear a skirt/no pants I'm actually reconsidering... crazy, the power of Rick.

[Faust]

Good soundtrack this year, too. Anyone got any info on that?

I don't know if it was good, but it was fucking earsplitting. Rick, turn down the volume please. And I don't mean the skirts...

[syed]

"...and sometimes you have to really force yourself to think what do I really, genuinely want, instead of like what do people need, or what will work, what makes sense"

I really want to try on one of the robes, and chuck a cardigan over it rather than a blazer (reminds me of something my dad would wear ). In motion they look fantastic. I'm not that bothered by the skirts with the split back, I think they would look cool over leggings (say black leggings and grey skirt). I thought the knits and longsleeves with the stripes were interesting - getting wider as they went down really emphasised the waist. In that respects I suppose it was very feminine, although the fact that the shoulders were mostly covered, really helped balance the effect.

Overall I agree with the idea that he has now earned the right to show what he wants rather than what people kinda expect. But to be honest I don't see it as that much of a disconnect from his work. Yes it's nothing like Fall 2011, but rather it's one of the possible pathways from his work as a whole. Let's see how many places pick up the full robes.

[Shucks]

syed, ur kinda rehashing things said before (also about wearing something underneath the apron-skirts), but i don't agree with ur statement that the straight lines of the tops emphasise the waist and make them feminine. in fact, i think that is precisely what makes them less feminine. less curves = more 'manly'. but either way, i like them!

and nice link, thx for that. glad to hear him talk about 'robes' - i feel the same way (like i said earlier) because of the straight cut and the covered shoulders.

Still don't think the skirt that shows a lot of skin on the back will be not leave the wearer watch his back all the time. Although when wearing a skirt, it might be a smart thing to do.

dude, u'r not wrong. literally. those poplin apron-ish ones are probably the one's i like the most and am most likely to buy - so like i said in the first post of the thread, i think it's time for me to grow some bigger balls.

and i don't mean just because people will look at me funny. i mean that because i live in the neighborhood do, i'm actually likely to be physically assaulted at some point. so rick, if u'r listening, i hope u appreciate exactly how hardcore people buying your stuff actually are.* (just don't start doing floral prints too...)

i'd be thoroughly disappointed if this collection didn't make it down into the retail channel properly. so some cojones needed by buyers in that level too!

four piece suit is a nice concept, but if i understand what he refers to, i still only see it in one (?) look? but i guess since it's one of the ones that seem to resonate also with the anti-skirt brigade, it has a fighting chance of making it to at least a couple of design agency client meetings come spring. wall street i think not..



*respect to heirloom for putting himself out there, even in my hood! (although here it's nighttime that most shit happens...)

[syed]

I actually agree with you, but I probably muddied my explanation. The broad lines make the waist/hips wider so it's feminine in that sense. But I think the combination of it against such a strong rectangular top is really interesting, and like you said, makes it even more masculine.

[Shucks]

syed - ah, ok i see what you mean from the photo.

chilton - yeh, i'd be curious to know which fabrics will be on offer to buyers. i'm liking the poplin (if that is actually what it is), and i'm suspecting there's lots of raw silk, but as for durability and structure i think linen would be great for this collection (are some pieces linen - do we know?), that would 'keep' better than a lot of other rick-fabrics, no? but obviously that wouldn't be for the knits. this collection really isn't about thin clingy jerseys though, so maybe the snagging/holes/pilling of knits isn't so much of an issue this time....

[jogu]

i saw a pic of this fat dude wearin a skirt lookin thing , i think it was yohji ss12 and i thought to myself he actually looks cool . wearin skirts successfully imo has alot to do with just bein secure and confident in urself . u already know some ppl on the street or train or whatever are gonna hate it but it doesnt stop me from doin it , skirts are mad fun to wear . ill stand over the grate on the sidewalk when the trains runnin underneath so the skirt will fly upwards and i can show off my batman the dark knight undies nah jk

[Heirloom]

HAHAHAHA. without punctuations that last sentence was hilarious to read.

[mrbeuys]

wearin skirts successfully imo has alot to do with just bein secure and confident in urself.

I thought it was funny to see how extremely manly the first few guys walked out in the skirts, as if making a conscious effort not to look girlish. I think it's a natural reaction, i walk like a cowboy when I wear medges. Which is interesting - being confident enough to wear clothing that doesn't conform with your gender, but still feeling the need to assert said gender by overplaying it. for me at least.

[Heirloom]

your middle paragraph just hit the nail on the head I think Eternal.
eloquently explained. I like that.

For someone like me (and I sure many others in this forum) with a rough upbringing this constant feedback you have to give yourself is very healthy for your self esteem. It does help pick me up on the days I feel like I want to hide, to just have that little bit of edge help you go forward and meet other people on the same level.

[Shucks]

lol didn't wanna turn this into that 'men in skirts' discussion again, but what the hell, this is actually interesting...

eternal, yeah there's at least for me, sometimes a bit of the self conscious phase of 'can i do this?' at first, but i tend to be too enthusiastic about the object at hand to let that stop me and then quite quickly forget what i'm wearing, or what tattoos i had had made or whatever, until i get that look from some moron. then i go 'oh, right, i'm wearing skorts today' or whatever.

oh and jogu, i don't usually give much of a fuck what random people think (though mindfucking idiots can be fun) - but my point was that when someone tries to beat my ass, then it's kinda hard to ignore...

[Lane]

the aggressive strutting makes the vibe of them better in the video for me. I actually like the silhouette a lot now.

I actually like the fact that they are kind of latching in front of the legs of the wearer, but flow so well when one moves. Hmm, guess im sold, but still as a whole I am not too impressed.

[moderninc2010]

The "4 piece suit" invention