Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2012 Women's - Paris

[Lumina]

I have not watched them all yet, but lots of interesting details and fabric indeed, and most of all, this open shoulders shirt is great (already on my wishlist). It was already good from front, but the back makes it perfect ! There is also a hole under the arm that I hadn't noticed
Thanks chameleon !

[BUMMER]

Ooops. I think I may have spoken too soon.
Should've realized the opening pics in this thread were out of order/only part of the show... My mistake!
That grey wool sleeveless look with the velvet trim and cropped pants was particularly grating the way it seemed to pop out of nowhere in the original post.

Seeing looks 24-32 as they appeared in the actual show has shed a completely new light. The second to last look is one of my faves which I didn't see til now.
I'm sure i'll like it even more after seeing the video.
Thanks Chameleon for posting sequential pics.

[cremaster]

Some friends of mine couldn't wait to ring me after they did their yohji buying. In the flesh they said the fabrics and construction were phenomenal and the collection so wearable. The hats were incredible though VERY expensive. They were gushing while I was grinding my teeth in envy!

[Faust]

enlighten us

I don't know. The collection seems incoherent and just a pale shadow of the former work. I don't have an inside scoop, except that he's been quite ill, which has been successfully covered up.

[Qwerty]

I am not knocked over by this collection - it's pretty but he is capable of so much more. I don't get a coherent vision from this, it looks like combinations of what he used to do. I hope he picks up for next season - he is one of the greatest out there, and yes, in a different league from Limi Feu too.

[aussy]

Agreed that it looks incoherent, which in turn makes the entire collection seem sloppy rather than artful. Oh well, I guess even Yohji has his bad seasons (for me at least).

[crouka]

YY femme used to be like a ghost black citroen dressed up and down by yohji. the DS was so cursed that it kept running with the engine above redline and stood out among the latest paris traffic.
but now they instaled a compulsory limiter in it.

roughly speaking though, he had been allowed to design clothes as he liked it, without much care about selling them. he used to go as far as he wanted to go. all he had to do with femme was listen to his inner necessity. and YY inc had managed to be okay that way.
but we saw a critical point two years ago. he has to think twice and make more of clothes that are supposed to sell.
maybe he still is not so accustomed to incorporating them into a collection on the runway.

[Qwerty]

I'm sad to hear the older collections didn't sell, as god knows they are not only imaginatively romantic, they're among the most beautifully tailored womenswear around. It's true they are less commercial than a Prada or Gucci...Not many designers bother to pay close attention to details, finish and materials when they do femme, even some of the big names.

[Ivwri]

Just wanted to add that sometimes I think that a runway show can make one miss the wood for the trees so to speak.

I believe that clothes are made to be worn and not put on display, so for me the ultimate test of a collection is how much of it is bought by the buyers and how they hold up when they are put on the racks and one can handle them/try them on. This current collection really looks like it will pass that test. Shame it's not for me to wear, hehe.

Also, wire, even though I am not as experienced with Yohji as you are and so can't compare it to that many previous collections, to me the AW11 collection for men is truly awesome. I had the good fortune of being at the Paris store just before fashion week and tried on quite a few of the pieces. All were amazing, with great fabrics used.