Small questions thread

[MikeN]

What you're describing as "where the sole is stitched-down with the stitch visible from the top of the shoe" is a Goodyear welt. I'm pretty sure it's considered the strongest way to construct a shoe. I think Fuuma would know more.

[Venus in Furs]

^ I don't think that's necessarily the case, the stitch should still be visible from the top if the Blake-Rapid construction is used. Although, if someone can confirm the construction method used for Carpe's that'd be great. But I was also wondering about the varying methods on the same model of shoe

[asho]

a welt stitch is not visible from the inside of the shoe. a good blake, or welt is not visible from the sole, it is hidden in a channel in the sole which is then closed. In the case of the carpe double sole the blake is visible in the shoe's waist because the half sole covers it on the part of the shoe which touches the ground. This is both a stylistic and practical choice as it acts as a leather vibram or topy, which can be easily replaced. The object of welt stitching a shoe is to attach the sole without piercing the insole, thus improving the waterproofing of the shoe.

[lowrey]

^ I don't think that's necessarily the case, the stitch should still be visible from the top if the Blake-Rapid construction is used. Although, if someone can confirm the construction method used for Carpe's that'd be great. But I was also wondering about the varying methods on the same model of shoe

from my understanding, Blake-rapid construction does indeed have the second row of stitching that is visible from the upper edge of the sole, whereas a simple Blake stitch is inside the upper and not visible.

[Venus in Furs]

^ yeh that's right, because with Blake construction it's stitched from the outsole straight through to the insole. Whereas with Blake-rapid the insole is stitched to a midsole. Then it has an outsole which is stitched to the midsole. It's this stitch that is visible from the top of the shoe. Given that I can see stitching on the inside of my Carpe's I'm inclined to say they're not Goodyear welted but rather Blake-rapid constructed. But I'm wondering whether on some of the carpe's the outsole is nailed to the midsole rather than stitched, creating the slightly differet aesthetic. If so, I'm wondering why there is this difference with the S40s, was it something that changed over the years, or did Maurizio produce both versions at the same time. I hope this makes some sort of sense.

[Dark Knight]

How does the RO Mollino leather jacket fit kangaroo skin? There is an xl on pollyanna right now that I want to buy. This would be my first RO leather, and I would want layer it in the winter, so I don't want something too tight or loose. For reference, I am 5 10 and 185 pounds. Thanks for the help.

[lowrey]

I have it in L and it fits like a slim 50. if I'd have to compare, I'd say this fits on the bigger side from Rick's leathers.

[Dark Knight]

Thanks for the reply lowrey. I have a 42 inch chest, would you say xl would be too big or spot on? Also how thick is this jacket, from what I have gathered from the RO thread, it appears quite thin.

[lowrey]

I doubt the XL would be too big at least, I have a 38" chest and the L allows layering and has room in the upper back. you might want to ask Pollyanna for measurements on the XL to make sure as Rick's sizing tends to vary a lot.

its pretty light weight, but I've seen even thinner kangaroo.

[Dark Knight]

Thanks. I am stuck between the kangaroo mollino and this:
http://www.thecorner.com/RICK_OWENS/...d10/59114543XP

[Acid, Bitter and Sad]

I doubt the XL would be too big at least, I have a 38" chest and the L allows layering and has room in the upper back. you might want to ask Pollyanna for measurements on the XL to make sure as Rick's sizing tends to vary a lot.

its pretty light weight, but I've seen even thinner kangaroo.

A, how does the kangaroo (used for the mollino) compare with the silky lamb from SS09?

[endersgame]

Thanks. I am stuck between the kangaroo mollino and this:
http://www.thecorner.com/RICK_OWENS/...d10/59114543XP

lol, i ended up returning that vader jacket. i weigh the same as you but 5 inches taller. baggy chest and arms. fit is messed up..

[Dark Knight]

How thick is the jacket if you don't mind me asking? I think it might fit me since I am somewhat muscular.

[nictan]

Quick question. Will komakino/darklands accept requests to mark down value of purchases?

[kuugaia]

Ye (5char).