Men's Fragrances

[Dane]

Sorry must have missed that.

Shiseido's parfum version of FdB was a bit of a letdown for me. It lacked something...not sure what. Strength was one thing...it was very timid.

I know he's been asked in the past, but I wish Nombre Noir would come back. I've never smelled it, but I'm sick of reading about how wonderful it was.

I assume L'Incendiaire comes in a splash bottle without a sprayer?

[resolution653]

Anyone familiar with Olivier Durbano's offerings besides Black Tourmaline ? Going to purchase another bottle of BT as it has become my favorite for winter, and was wondering if there was others in the line worth trying out ?

[Law]

Anyone familiar with Olivier Durbano's offerings besides Black Tourmaline ? Going to purchase another bottle of BT as it has become my favorite for winter, and was wondering if there was others in the line worth trying out ?

If you haven't tried it already, Black Tourmaline is available in an extrait de parfum concentration. It's a level above the original IMO.

[resolution653]

O, I didn't know there was an extrait version. That's exciting to say the least, since I love the edp so much.

Wearing Pathetique by O'driu today. By far my favorite from the three I tried (Eva Kant, Peety) Warm and comoforting. If anyone likes soil accords, think Andrea Mack's Coven, I'd suggest giving Pathetique a try.

[Law]

O, I didn't know there was an extrait version. That's exciting to say the least, since I love the edp so much.

Wearing Pathetique by O'driu today. By far my favorite from the three I tried (Eva Kant, Peety) Warm and comoforting. If anyone likes soil accords, think Andrea Mack's Coven, I'd suggest giving Pathetique a try.

Sampling this one too, it's very unusual and yes comforting is an apt description. I'm really digging the black truffle on a bed of custard accord (I get more custard than vanilla), with that clever sprinkle of juniper berry on top

[Verdandi]

So Lauder bought Malle as well. That's quite the buying spree.

[jogu]

heard about that this morning , really surprised by that one . lauder must see serious potential with malle's brand and rightly so . when theres a new fm release my friends and i into perfumes rush into barneys to check it out (same with lutens ) . im guessin his line will eventually be available at dept stores like nordstroms . does anyone think thats a bad thing ? me , i dont really think it is . perfumes nowadays dont always have to be harder to get , more niche , to be good . i mean isnt lutens available at sephora in other countries ?

[Icarium]

Hrm the only thing I can think of that might be an issue is potentially the scarcity of certain ingredients. I know that many of the more esoteric ingredients are banned for allergen reasons, but I am curious if scents from FM/Lutens make use of ingredients that may require substitutes if distribution grows by an order of magnitude.

[Shifts]

Estée Lauder

jogu: Lutens is yes, also at Douglas in some countries. For me it is a bad thing, a big part of what I felt was exclusive, magic and exciting disappears when they enter those walls. As long as something is available to buy through the Internet, I don't think it could be called hard to get really. Still I think customers should be forced to seek them out on purpose and not be spoon fed them at the mall.

[jogu]

i guess i can understand the exclusivity thing but for me exclusivity doesnt matter. i used lutens as an example cos one can buy his perfumes at sephora . thats a pretty mainstream store rite there yet we still love his work . if its the fear that the perfumes will change i cant imagine the quality of fm's ingredients would be compromised by getting sold to lauder . he knows his clients , he reads the blogs occasionally, he knows what ppl expect from his perfumes . i say that based solely on what hes said when i met him twice at barneys events .
i believe hes too smart to sell his line if he feared they would fuck it up.

i only care about the way the perfume smells . where i bought it doesnt bug me . ill wear any perfume if i really like it , dior homme for example is available at dept stores but i still wear that from time to time . maybe theres the fear that now more ppl will be wearing his perfumes . ok possibly but that doesnt bother me either . outside my circle of friends that are into perfumes i very rarely encounter ppl that wear perfumes i wear . once i was certain i smelled dzing! (l'artisan) but i couldnt pinpoint who was wearing it near the table i was at and i told my friends " i wish more people would smell that good ."

[darkbydesign]

Definitely worry that the interesting ingredients and degree of creativity may be compromised or even worse people like Dominique Ropion might move on from EdP. That's more paranoia though, as I'm sure they'll get paid even more with the grand commercialization going on. We'll see.

I do know that many of the FM EdP magic was brought on by massive trial and error with uber rare ingredients that are likely frowned upon by mass production brands. That would be a shame to lose.

Speaking Frederic Malle EdP, I just re-discovered Le Parfum de Thérèse and I've always overlooked this one, but what a wonderful floral, green, mossy sorta scent. Loving it on wet winter days.

[TriggerDiscipline]

Just want to drop in a little bit about MeL body fragrances, i picked up a small sample of Black Afgan and a 50ml Terre Noir, I have several candles and ambers, (spirtuelle verte being my favorite)

I think the products are great for what it is, ive been around to see some interesting fragrances here in Japan but it seems there's like a very high barrier of entry into that niche world as weird as that may sound, considering the platform.

I'm upset I didn't pick up the 50ml Black Afghan though. . .

[Dane]

re: Malle

EL's brands:

AERIN BEAUTY
ARAMIS
AVEDA
BOBBI BROWN
BUMBLE AND BUMBLE
CLINIQUE
COACH
DARPHIN PARIS
DONNA KARAN COSMETICS
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
ESTÉE LAUDER
FLIRT!
GOODSKIN LABS
JO MALONE LONDON
KITON
LA MER
LAB SERIES
M•A•C
MARNI
MICHAEL KORS
OJON
ORIGINS
OSIAO
PRESCRIPTIVES
SMASHBOX
TOM FORD BEAUTY
TOMMY HILFIGER
TORY BURCH

Going by the fact that they let Tom Ford be relatively creative, etc., I wouldn't worry about Malle. As far as altering/updating formulae, etc., Malle started that a long time ago. Expect your favourite perfume to be reformulated at least once every 2 years, at certain periods, this could be a drastic change or very slight.

[Shifts]

See that Aramis is on that list. It would be interesting to know if the re-release of Havana came under the EL ownership – or thanks to it. It could very well be what made it possible. Then not everything is crap.

[Dane]

See that Aramis is on that list. It would be interesting to know if the re-release of Havana came under the EL ownership – or thanks to it. It could very well be what made it possible. Then not everything is crap.

Aramis was historically Lauder's male equivalent to the perfumes in their female line. Devin=Aliage; Aramis=Azuree; 900=Clinique's Aromatics Elixir, etc.

Anyway, point is that Lauder was Aramis' inventor and owner since day 1, so the re-release was again Lauder.

Lauder would also be a bit of a pioneer when it came to taking risks with the first aquatic (New West), so the company itself could keep the Malle line the way it was intended to be.