WTF

[Ahimsa]

It looks like the problem might be a simple, they forgot to drop the armhole/extend the armhole. I've been seeing this a lot recently and I'm wondering if it has to do with so many designers switching to overseas pattern makers. My gf knows someone who recently got laid off because they sent her pattern making job overseas too. Makes no sense to me for luxury design as having an in-house pattern maker is just the greatest thing.

FIT has even been stressing that you shouldn't learn that much pattern making because so many companies just do it overseas.

[cjbreed]

...
FIT has even been stressing that you shouldn't learn that much pattern making because so many companies just do it overseas.

that is ridiculous. shameful...

[snafu]

I don't know too much but certainly the UK schools are pushing the importance of pattern making, but there is a huge difference between the job as a designer and job of pattern maker. Its rare to be both.

The places i have worked seem to see the pattern maker as second in command and have certainly recognised the importance of the relationship between designer and pattern maker. Obviously they don't make design decisions, but without them the designers work wouldn't be realised.


As far as i know Rick does all the design himself, i imagine he works closely with a pattern maker or two. But despite he being muscled, his models are a far cry from his body shape and this could be the reason why that area splits on people closer to rick's physique.

[Shucks]

As far as i know Rick does all the design himself, i imagine he works closely with a pattern maker or two. But despite he being muscled, his models are a far cry from his body shape and this could be the reason why that area splits on people closer to rick's physique.

nope. i'm pretty much sample size (48). not even remotely built like rick. it's just a really poor construction detail in areas (pants/pods also) that are put under a lot of stress due to movement.

[snafu]

I know quality has gone down on certain aspects of the business, i think a lot of pieces are now produced in Moldova now (although i could be wrong). But lets not get into the quality/design argument again.
But some things have improved he is now using goodyear welting in some of his footwear. I do actually remember seeing the same split on my friends leather, so this must be a common occurrence, i don't wear that much rick so my first hand experience is lacking.
In the end of the day its not affecting his sales, and i can't see you not buying any more rick because of this. But yes you certainly would expect better; especially for the price. However there are plenty of other jackets out there that won't split in the pit.

[unwashed]

If it is really because of the patterns and not the materials used, then I'm surprised because Rick himself was a pattern maker. With this in mind I would say that he knows how to handle these kind of patterns.

Another construction failure lies with Rick's pockets for the 'dropcrotch'-pants. I always get holes due to seems breaking loose on the outerside of my pants below the pocket. And wind up bringing out my sewing machine and do it better myself.

[other_animals]

I've had this issue come up with a number of my rick jackets, new and old, leather and cotton, etc. The pattern was just cut for a very specific physique (ie. slim slim slim, no broad backs allowed). Thankfully (yet still annoying), its an easy fix. I've actually had my tailor, put in a thick jersey panel in at the stress point in some of them, instead of just resewing the seam to relieve some of the stress and to prevent the seam from rebreaking.

[Ahimsa]

I don't know too much but certainly the UK schools are pushing the importance of pattern making, but there is a huge difference between the job as a designer and job of pattern maker. Its rare to be both.

The places i have worked seem to see the pattern maker as second in command and have certainly recognised the importance of the relationship between designer and pattern maker. Obviously they don't make design decisions, but without them the designers work wouldn't be realised.

Higher end companies certainly treat their pattern makers well for the most part. At Alexander Wang for instance, they get treated extremely well from what I hear. However, one pattern maker might work for multiple companies, indicating that you have to be really good to keep your job, especially considering the pay some get. I hear about designers switching their pattern makers more often now. Not to mention you can also outsource your pattern making to pattern making companies locally. (my gf works at one currently)

But investors typically have the final say, so if it's profitable to outsource the pattern making then there is a good chance it will be done.

*FIT blew Parsons away in the last Fusion show so they must be doing something right.

[doldrums]

laugh out loud

[Law]

laugh out loud

How innovative!

http://www.verticelondon.com/designer/leopold_bossert/?apparel=menswear

[deltapie]

my perception of seams will never be the same

[Soul Pill]

my perception of seams will never be the same

http://www.zara.com/uk/en/man/jacket...1p1984057.html

[550BC]

Oh zara....

[PoorHarnden]

ZARA hired someone who loved SZ

[deltapie]

that "faux leather" looks like it could give you lead poisoning if you wore it too long.