Your recent purchases

[Faust]

who exactly do you mean by we? i'm seeing less privileged insight shared here than ever beyond what you once termed 'the showroom mafia' ..yes, you and a couple of your cronies have achieved first-name basis with the folks you've wanted to reach. so have many senior members over the years, to some extent myself included. but the end result left this place barren, lacking continuing involvement of those core members to the detriment of whatever content. you've always had a 'plenty of fish in the sea' attitude about that, often forgetting that a community is only the sum of its parts.

yes, the place is yours. the infrastructure is yours. the reputation is definitely yours. more power to you. but the content to be found here on merit of which the place has gone so far as it has was always the people who posted here, and with those people increasingly reluctant to bother, you've been wondering why everything's taken a turn for where2kop in the same breath as adding ever more massive banners instructing, well, ..where2kop.

i know you can't be entirely blamed and rightly deserve remuneration for this and other things. but things have definitely changed and, though the door has not hit me on my slow way out, i can't really speak for others.

you are now truly the purveyor of hollow things in the same sense as that which once compelled you to depart TFS. i hope it was worth it.

yea, yea. fuck you, too.

[Faust]

no i am truly interested in why people want to wear 3/4 length sleeve pajamas. this place is very hypebeasty sometimes. everyone sells their rick to buy ccp which they sell to buy ph. how long before ph is sold to buy aitor's ankle socks?

That does happen.

[lowrey]

i'm seeing less privileged insight shared here than ever beyond what you once termed 'the showroom mafia'

but the end result left this place barren, lacking continuing involvement of those core members to the detriment of whatever content.

but the content to be found here on merit of which the place has gone so far as it has was always the people who posted here, and with those people increasingly reluctant to bother

I see a lot of words but very little substance - can you explain what you mean by less insight shared, and who are all these core members who no longer bother? What are we missing that in your view cripples this entire forum? Who are these irreplacable people who have disappeared?

It seems to me that you have a specific view of how this community should function that might not be very realistic. fact is that it grows, evolves and changes whether you like it or not.

[MikeN]

pajamas no?not suit?

Nope it's the worker suit and pants. Pajamas are different, ask Andrew, he has em. Nice soloist haul.

[Fuuma]

yep, maybe but mainly because l'E and the fashion week both happen to be in Paris.

I am guessing the people purchasing PH at L'E during fashion week are at best peripheral players of the fashion week, especially since the stuff is men's, arrives during men's and is thus basically peripheral when it comes to fashion at large by virtue of not being women's.

Of course I partially agree with Merz (not really about SZ, consumerism has always been central here but def not the only driving force), PH pieces are also coveted and acquired because they convey some sort of status here and elsewhere and are associated with positive values (the guy is an old school British artisan who shuns publicity, has a small atelier and just wants to make money to go to the pub, for god's sake if that isn't compelling for some people, what is?). We also have to take into accounts that the recent purchases and recent purchases in general are trend driven and that PH is trendy, at least on SZ.

Oh and I own three PH jackets, bought at L'Éclaireur, during fascist week (at least two of 'em) and I certainly fucking hope I get some positive feeling out of them outside from their crappy stitching and Victorian chimney sweep design. I mean stories and dreamworlds matter, no? Who the fuck is stupid enough to pay €1137 (old price) for a fucking jacket, it better titillate my imaginary world a little.

[lost53]

A moot point, but H is not British.

[zamb]

A moot point, but H is not British.

Specifically no, loosely yes.......

i'm jamaican, but I'm british, and I am American now

[cjbreed]

its funny how divisive ph can be.

fuuma has it right imo, but just to add on a little, i really like ph because for me its like the intersection of the romanticized imaginary peasant thing, the avante garde thing because its stylized just enough to go with all my bling povera darkness steez, and the classic, meaning i can wear it among the common folk without it upsetting their delicate psyche. wear it with just about anything and it works. and it is comfy for me.

[lazyguru]

/\ Fuuma

one can never be sure whether it's good poetry or bad acid

[lowrey]

I have to disagree about the substance, if a member like merz, who has been a great contributor over the years is bringing this discussion to the table the least we could all do is respect that and try to think why he says what he says.

I think you misunderstood me - by lack of substance I mean't that he wrote several pharagraphs about how things here are going downhill but doesn't explain what his problem is. It's not the first time either when he complains about the state of SZ.

[theetruscan]

I see a lot of words but very little substance - can you explain what you mean by less insight shared, and who are all these core members who no longer bother? What are we missing that in your view cripples this entire forum? Who are these irreplacable people who have disappeared?

I, obviously, don't speak for Merz, and I have always been much more of a consumer of content than producer*, but it seems as though he may be referencing a change in where conversation is focused within the forums. It used to feel as though there was more intense, frequent, and detailed discussion within "Designers and Their Work"**. Now, it seems there is less involved discussion of inspiration, theme, and so forth, and quite a bit less engagement on those issues than there was some years back. It feels like posts to "recent purchases, good finds, sales, arrivals, ..." have stayed frequent, and very highly read, but the conversations about the how and why have substantially faded. I miss reading them (too bad I never had the knowledge to contribute). I'm not claiming the shopping sections weren't always significant, they just didn't always seem to be so dominant.

I would never be comfortable trying to name the "quality" posters, or even comfortable claiming the ability to recognize good insights, but it seems as though there's often less delta than there used to be, outside of the shopping. I don't know if this is just the sepia hues of nostalgia...

* awkward in a discussion about a shift to where2kop

** not just before it was split away from seasonal collections

[casem]

My biggest issue with Harnden is his designs look back, not forward (not even present). Reminds me of this:

[MikeN]

My biggest issue with Harnden is his designs look back, not forward (not even present).

Says the guy who wears only Slimane-era Dior Homme and Cloak like it was 2005 again.

[casem]

Lol, that's not quite true but even if it were it's different because I'm not a designer. If I were designing clothes I should hope not to be stuck in 2005. And the alleged datedness of my clothes is hardly out of nostalgia for a better fashion's past. For the record, I think people here generally wear Harnden well (yourself included) but I don't think what he's doing makes him interesting as a designer. And from the sounds of his biographical details, that's something he's probably happy with.

[kunk75]

nothing like harkening to the days where people died of colds, women couldn't vote, blacks were second class citizens, no air conditioning, slave wages and slave labor. the good old days. smh