Your recent purchases

[iSuck]

Re: Your recent acquisition



[quote user="bakla"]

[quote user="deuxmille"]

the only store in the us that ordered them

[/quote]



Just some of the factors that go into the price of an item like iSuck's Raf sandals. It may not justify the cost to a customer, but I can see why it may have cost so much. This could easily have been canceled before it reached the stores, unless Raf committed to producing them no matter what.
[/quote]

Just to chime in on what you said (quite the mouthful and well done):

Re the Sandals/Boots: Barneys ordered them, they were in their mailer/catalogue; but, after they were not delivered by 4/1 they cancelled their order. According to Seven they pushed and pleaded and begged for Raf to go forward with them so that they could carry them.

Re the Process: Having been on both the retail and wholesale side of things it can be frustrating for all parties involved--consumer, retailer, vendor when it comes to item production/cancellation. A lot of times though what will happen is if the designer has the luxury of having their own boutiques the "fun/crazy/expensive/not that well recieved by buyers" items can make it into those. That is basically what we do with some of our things that we really like; but, only a few accounts bought. We'll switch them to an exclusive for us after we look at the orders from Market.

[laika]

Re: Your recent acquisition



Bakla, thanks so much for taking the time to type all that up--your insights are very much appreciated! [G]

That certainly puts "rare," into a whole other perspective and goes a long way to explaining the price.

[deuxmille]

Re: Your recent acquisition



It's quite easy to underestimate both the cost of production for small runs and how much stores mark up. Fabric minimums can be really quite high.

Bakla, do you really think operations like Raf order fabrics ahead of sales? In my experience I'd order after you know how much you'll need. Unless my experiences are way off the norm haha.

[bakla]

Re: Your recent acquisition



I've wanted to type up something like that many times when I've heard complaints about how designers are gouging consumers, but it can really be difficult for a designer to stay in business for the factors that most consumers are unaware of. But I was afraid because I knew it would take an effort to explain, even in part!

[quote user="deuxmille"]

It's quite easy to underestimate both the cost of production for small runs and how much stores mark up. Fabric minimums can be really quite high.

Bakla, do you really think operations like Raf order fabrics ahead of sales? In my experience I'd order after you know how much you'll need. Unless my experiences are way off the norm haha.

[/quote]
I can't speak for anyone else except my own experiences, and yes, when we'd preview fabrics and leathers at shows, we have to pre-estimate our own costs and volumes and hedge a bit here and there depending on orders, but things would be vastly easier if we could only order as needed, especially if you're doing fashion items/materials that aren't stocked but made to order.

[Faust]

Re: Your recent acquisition

Thanks, bakla! You pacified me on that one :-)

[Casius]

Re: Your recent acquisition



Bakla- That's what I deal with every day for work...So I'm glad you took the time to type that! lol Very well done.

Oh and to add to the whole Raf Sandal, lego boot extravaganza; When the stores were doing their buying for the SS08 line (months and months ago), the boots/sandals were going through production issues and most of the stores did not even know what colors were going to be actually produced. This is one of the reasons why you only see the white lego boot being carried by any store (the only two I know of are Park and Seven).

A lot of times, like George noted, things go through the development stage and when a company goes into actual production, they can run into all sorts of different problems (cost issues, MOQ's, etc. etc.).

And for these; Yes, you are paying for the exclusivity. That is apparent because the boots were listed to retail for $1495 from Barneys but are $1895 at Seven. (They are also cheaper at Park)

[philip nod]

Re: Your recent acquisition



re: Raf's unpopular sandals, if CCP made something that looked less
Lego and more 'Atelier-esque', would people complain less about the
price?

i don't get this, ccp already owns atelieresque

and the lego boots are only available in 43 and 44 i was told by seven. echoing bakla's statements

[ddohnggo]

Re: Your recent acquisition

i think it's a brand comparison. so if ccp made a leather sandal would we still complain about the price.

[AKA*NYC]

Re: Your recent acquisition



Thanks so much for the insight bakla. I wish more people would share this sort of abstruse knowledge on SZ if they're privy to it. The other day I asked a question that I'm curious if you could answer. In what follows I'm referring specifically to Rick Owens although I'm sure this applies to other brands. What I'm trying to understand is why some stores (especially in Japan it seems) seemingly get multiple shipments throughout a given season while the stores in New York seem to get only one (in the case of Jeffrey) or a couple (Barneys, A, etc.) shipments at the beginning of the season ONLY. It seems like certain items (eg. the bomber jackets at Oki-Ni, the white DRKSHDW grosgrain jacket at Diabro, the leather moto jacket in crazy colorways on Why-Lip, and all the different combination jackets) haven't even been produced before New York has already received everything they'll get for the season. Why?

[iSuck]

Re: Your recent acquisition

[quote user="AKA*NYC"]


Thanks so much for the insight bakla. I wish more people would share this sort of abstruse knowledge on SZ if they're privy to it. The other day I asked a question that I'm curious if you could answer. In what follows I'm referring specifically to Rick Owens although I'm sure this applies to other brands. What I'm trying to understand is whysome stores (especially in Japan it seems) seemingly get multiple shipments throughout a given season while the stores in New York seem to get only one (in the case of Jeffrey) or a couple (Barneys, A, etc.) shipments at the beginning of the season ONLY. It seems like certain items (eg. the bomber jackets at Oki-Ni, the white DRKSHDW grosgrain jacket at Diabro, the leather moto jacket in crazy colorways on Why-Lip, and all the different combination jackets) haven't even been produced before New York has already received everything they'll get for the season. Why?

[/quote]

I don't know know for Rick Owens; but, for example Jil Sander the distribution partner for North America and Japan are two seperate organizations. While both are tied into Milan, they can each operate with their own wholesale accounts on different timelines, quantities, etc. Not saying that the U.S. is prevented from doing so; but, based on our retailers it just isn't done.

Also, for your websites are you certain that they just got that into their b&m location also or is it that they have just got around to listing them on their websites?

[Casius]

Re: Your recent acquisition

[quote user="AKA*NYC"]

Thanks so much for the insight bakla. I wish more people would share this sort of abstruse knowledge on SZ if they're privy to it. The other day I asked a question that I'm curious if you could answer. In what follows I'm referring specifically to Rick Owens although I'm sure this applies to other brands. What I'm trying to understand is why some stores (especially in Japan it seems) seemingly get multiple shipments throughout a given season while the stores in New York seem to get only one (in the case of Jeffrey) or a couple (Barneys, A, etc.) shipments at the beginning of the season ONLY. It seems like certain items (eg. the bomber jackets at Oki-Ni, the white DRKSHDW grosgrain jacket at Diabro, the leather moto jacket in crazy colorways on Why-Lip, and all the different combination jackets) haven't even been produced before New York has already received everything they'll get for the season. Why?

[/quote]

I am going to guess and say this is most likely the stores doing. I think some stores would rather get multiple shipments and stretch out their payments than bundle it all in one or two lump sums.

There's definitely good and bad to doing both ways but I think the more logical approach is the way Atelier does it. Getting the bulk of the shipment when the season starts because let's face it, most customers have done all their shopping 4 months into the season and are now just waiting for sales and the like (or for whatever season is next).

[ddohnggo]

Re: Your recent acquisition

i know nothing about the industry, but my first guess would be production time? meaning, stores here in the USA are not willing to wait for new pieces to arrive mid season, unlike how A does with ccp and m.a+. i'm going to assume that the japanese shoppers are a bit more voracious and will cop at any time.

[mesh]

Re: Your recent acquisition



A crude answer, you can break up the shipments as the production ramps up, some stores choose to receive their entire orders at once while some choose to receive as it is produced. It also depends on what is being produced, perhaps certain pieces are higher up in the queu than others. Also, Japanese customers tend to order the more liberal pieces which is why you won't see a lot of overlap with stores in the US but of course this is generally speaking. Margiela and apc for example have multiple shipments throughout the season, so basically it all depends on the alignment of what a store has ordered and shipping preferencesvs. production time table.

I'm sure bakla has a much more elaborate answer as my information is second hand.

[curiouscharles]

Re: Your recent acquisition

Thanks for that post Bakla, super educational. What do you do as a career exactly?

[AKA*NYC]

Re: Your recent acquisition

So is it just a coincidence that the retailers that are receiving shipments late in the season are also receiving items and/or colorways that never appeared at the beginning of the season in New York?