S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

[darkanimal]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

You're welcome. I still feel this collection is not for me, but the coat and the pants might work.

[djrajio]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

[quote user="Honey~Blade"]

Has anyone seen this in person?

[/quote]

Yes. I didn't have time to look at the actual material, initially I thought it was leather but it felt so flimsy and flakey, like distressed/cracked pleather. Either way, it was extremely expensive, 2000+.

[Casius]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

Not too hot on those boots myself, maybe it's just the color. I do like the look on the right side of the display (minus the belt) though.

[ddohnggo]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews



i'm not a fan of the boots in the display as well. i think the fact the boots are so plain and lack any real detail, make them not really jive with me. the pieces on the mannequin don't really look all that stellar as well.

as far as the SA thing, it's probably less of them not knowing when sales/final markdowns are, but them lying so that you buy things at the higher retail price.

[Honey~Blade]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

[quote user="djrajio"][quote user="Honey~Blade"]

Has anyone seen this in person?

[/quote]

Yes. I didn't have time to look at the actual material, initially I thought it was leather but it felt so flimsy and flakey, like distressed/cracked pleather. Either way, it was extremely expensive, 2000+.

[/quote]

That's a complete disappoint, I was hoping to pick this up. Money saved I suppose.

[matthewhk]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

[quote user="Faust"][quote user="Chinorlz"]

Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2007 is at Atelier now.

...what a strange line for them to pick up!

[/quote]

I also thought that at first, but it actually makes a lot of sense. They have to counter the somewhat trendy/juvenile N(N) and Undercover with something masterful and serious. It's still black, the silhouette has loosened up thanks to Raf, and they have plenty of older artist clients who don't look like waifs. Yamamoto actually approached them, because the SoHo store is going to be turned to Y-3/Y's and a new Yamamoto flagship will open in the meatsmelling district. I wonder if they asked IF to pickup the womenswear.

[/quote]

interesting to hear Yohji contacted the store himself...i'm interested to see what Atelier bought from the current collection, but i won't be goin to NY any time soon. Any cool outerwear (particularly blazers), shirts, trousers?

[CHRIS]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews



i called barneys (NY), and the guy told me they cancelled the order for the engineer boots. the SA at the beverly hills location told me, however, that they'd be arriving in march.

???

[Faust]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

[quote user="matthewhk"][quote user="Faust"][quote user="Chinorlz"]

Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2007 is at Atelier now.

...what a strange line for them to pick up!

[/quote]

I also thought that at first, but it actually makes a lot of sense. They have to counter the somewhat trendy/juvenile N(N) and Undercover with something masterful and serious. It's still black, the silhouette has loosened up thanks to Raf, and they have plenty of older artist clients who don't look like waifs. Yamamoto actually approached them, because the SoHo store is going to be turned to Y-3/Y's and a new Yamamoto flagship will open in the meatsmelling district. I wonder if they asked IF to pickup the womenswear.

[/quote]

interesting to hear Yohji contacted the store himself...i'm interested to see what Atelier bought from the current collection, but i won't be goin to NY any time soon. Any cool outerwear (particularly blazers), shirts, trousers?

[/quote]

Yea, all very baggy - I was there when they were unpacking it. I love it - on the right man it will look fantastic.

[Faust]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews



Barneys

Menswear (in order of appearance)

Alexander McQueen - Decent buy (san all the mercerized cotton polos with skulls), lots of light sweaters, gorgeous leather blousons in sky blue, light cotton shirts - all extremely expensive.

Lanvin - Very small buy (as usual) - light formal textured cotton coats, leather flight jackets, some shirts and pants, the quality is through the roof and so are the prices. The outerwear is just stunning.

Margiela - Incredible fabrics and coloros. Lots of light sweaters and shirts, in gorgeous hues of blue, grey, white. Nice supple leather biker jacket in copper. The classic biker jackets they bought are in white canvas - $1300. The heavy knit cardigans are present as well - ($700, ouch). VERY expensive all of it, but gorgeous. Nothing really new in terms of cut though, and I look at Margiela's cuts very closely.

Ann Dem - Preety large buy, and underwhelming, to be honest. A ton of button up shirts in different colors, some cropped pants, some light black jackets. Black/white pallete, with a little of dusty muted pink thrown in. Very expenisve. The stand out was the fairly heavy knit dry cotton irregular black/white stripe v-neck sweater - $715. Silk/cotton shirts are $500 and made in Poland. I don't know why her silk is so expensive, but it always is. They have the same hoodie A bought, but in black on black it looks 10 times cheaper than the one A got (olive on black).

Dries van Noten - Huge buy, tons of stuff. Awesome collection, and I am always thankful to Dries for being such a class act and passing the cost savings of producing in not-Italy/Belgium to his customers. Lots of light sweaters and button up shirts in lower $200s. A fully ligned navy raincoat with lots of details $580. A really, really nice buy. Oh, he brought back the button up shirt with the tiny rose on the pocket - I think I may get one at full retail - it's adorable (they come in different colors, all nice).

CDG H+ - Complete trash. A tiny buy (and I don't blame them), out of which half are mercerized cotton polos with "golden boy" stitched out on the chest [+o(] I am sure Will Pharrell and Co will be happy. The only golden version I liked was a very muted one, mixed with beige on a sweater. The EVERGREEN stuff was pretty good - I liked the shirts with hidden buttons and buttonhole threads sticking out unfinished and a one-button 3/4 polyester coat with lots of decorative metal buttons inside.

No Rick Owens or Yamamoto yet.

And I also loved a suit from Band of Outsiders hand-made in Brooklyn. The fabric was absolutely stunning, sort of like Spencer Hart does - for $1500 it was easily the best suit on the floor. I also liked their shirts.

Womenswear (in order of appearance)

Margiela - Very lovely. Lots of little tanks, tops, everything is a little twisted. I loved the cardigans knit out of rayon - one of my favorite fabrics, it falls on the body like coat of mail. Only one pair of pants - weird.

CDG - Meh. I only liked the patchwork stuff, and she's BTDT too many times.

Junya Watanabe - YES! Easily the best collection. Not much new in terms of.. well, new, but construction and fabrics are all incredible. I just love his womenswear. Gorgeous seamwork on everything, some crochetting and ruching - all beautiful. Long denim skirts, tiny knit black tops, some jackets. Awesome.

Rick Owens - I think Owens is a devil who has made a pact with the angels to get fabrics made from clouds. I just don't see where else he can get such heavenly stuff. Lots of stuff from Lilies line - all incredibly light and soft to the touch, wich zippers to add a little toughness. The standout was a sleevless biker jacket - $450.

Ann Dem - Only one tailored blazer, and lots of shirts. The shirts are beautiful as always, with twists such as strings to adjust the back, and tabs to pull up the sleeves.

That's it for now.

[Johnny]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews



Thanks Faust. Here's mine.

From DSM and Browns mainly (all quite small selections so far)

CDGH+ - agree with Faust, really not very good. Those Golden Boy tees - ? They?re post post ironic (pish in other words). There are some quite interesting golden tweed fabrics, and some nice grey suits with very fait gold iridescence through them (jackets have top part of lapel removed so that they sort of look like Nerhu jackets, with inter-lining revealed). The Evergreen is nice enough, if a bit dull and VERY expensive. Shirts with metal buttons on the inside about £300. The same old polyester jackets although very fitted this time. I?m slightly tired of the old Pompidu/inside out thing with comme ? when you do it every season it tends to take the value away from the original point.

Junya Man ? very bad. Those tracksuit suits look terrible! Nothing to buy. Lots of polos in bright colours with numbers on them. Not exactly cutting edge! Vintage trainers look nice but of course they are replicas and therefore a bit pastiche. And they are made in Taiwan which is a bit dodgy for Junya. Don?t know who is supposed to buy this. Anyone over 18 would look daft in it.

Lanvin ? lovely, but unbelievably expensive. Plain petrol coloured cashmere silk v neck - £500!! Suit jackets at £1000 plus. Trousers at 400 plus. Shirts are the best (but they only had samples of these at DSM so you couldn?t buy them!) I am not so sure about this collection as a whole now. I think the shirts are the best thing by far, but there are some really dodgy looking pieces that Will from Will & Grace might look at. Some of it fails my (rather non-PC) Straight Eye for the Queer Guy test?

Raf ? really bad (?R?s everywhere), apart from tailoring, which was nice (but made in Romania). I found this collection to be particularly unappealing, but it maybe just isn?t my thing. It?s so stark and futuristic ? just doesn?t seem right and looks incredibly unflattering.

Margiela ? OK, same old same old. Quite reliably good, but nothing too exciting. Gorgeous blue 70s Replica three piece suit, looked impeccably made, over £1000. Picked up the new grey army trainers.

Ann D ? pretty underwhelming ? just rows of over-washed greys, and off whites in big baggy shapes. I think you really have to go for this whole look for it to work; you have to commit to it. Individually the pieces are not so great, and I?m very dubious about the quality. As Faust says, it?s quite expensive too.

[Faust]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews



Thanks, Johnny. It's nteresting to see that Lanvin was bought in completely different ways. I think Barneys is really banking on Lanvin, therefore they went all out.

Forgot Raf, so thanks for reminding me. Completely agree with you on that. The suits are really well made (and I love the red piping on the lining), and the rest is blah. I did not like the shorts everyone liked, they are balooney.

[laika]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews



Great review, Faust--it sounds like they got a lot more stuff in since I was there last week. I really want to see those other Junya pieces you described.

I forgot to mention the RO Lilies stuff. I like it too, it's very soft, comfortable, and easy. I just wish he would straighten out his ridiculously inconsistent sizing--it's about time, I think!

[Faust]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

[quote user="laika"]

Great review, Faust--it sounds like they got a lot more stuff in since I was there last week. I really want to see those other Junya pieces you described.

I forgot to mention the RO Lilies stuff. I like it too, it's very soft, comfortable, and easy. I just wish he would straighten out his ridiculously inconsistent sizing--it's about time, I think!

[/quote]

Yea, the Junya stuff rocks. I agree about Rick's sizing, that's why it's so hard to buy him on the internet.

[casem]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews



Thanks for the pic darkanimal! This isn't the best Cloak collection, but I'm warming up to it and there are some pieces I'm getting excited about like that short sleeved contrast collar/pocket shirt, that black shiny trench and the red funnel neck shirts. The black pants look really fine as always, but I already have the greaser pants and they don't seem much different. Maybe I'll try to work those plaid shorts...

SS 07 is supposed to be coming to the boutique this week, my birthday is Thursday so I might have to go there and get myself a present [;)]

[quote user="darkanimal"]

For everyone outside NYC here it is:

Thanks casem for the heads up. I had to make a train stop just to take a look at these. They indeed are better looking than the runway photos. Wish all online shop would take a cue from Barneys on how to style manequins. It will be sad if these boots are never to be produced. The one I asked is directly involved in Cloak's design dept. I believe, so there!

[/quote]

[darkanimal]

Re: S/S 2007 Arrivals and Reviews

Cool...update us when things are droping in at the store. I get off
when stores start closing already, no time to keep track of what's
happening in the shopping world. Advance Happy Birthday... I'm an
Aquarian myself!!![:D]