Cobblers, shoe care, DIY

[croatoan]

That is normal.

[ErnstLudwig]

a) often indicates that your feet don't like the last (missing arch support)
b) no issue
c) is repairable, but afaik the only permanent solution is to rip off, roughen & reglue/replace the heel

= wait till it falls apart

[liberty_of_style]

Hey guys. Just got some guidis, my first pair of nice boots. Does it matter if I wear them around for a month or two before rubber soling them? Will it ruin them? I live in Los Angeles. I want to see how they feel without soles before getting I decide to do it.

Hi! I did vibram on my Guidis recently and don't regret about it. First time i worried, i liked its authentic leather soles. But i did it on the soles and on the heels too. And of course i was lucky with the cobbler. As one guy here sad to me - "do it and wear it to death" Good Luck!

[Shucks]

Anyone experience with the brand "Topy" rubber sole?
How does it compared to vibram and how much does it usually cost in the US?

i have no idea about the cost, but on those occasions a cobbler has put topy soles on something for me, they have lasted just as well as vibram soles.

but ask the cobbler to show you the sole material first - then you can decide for yourself. he should also be able to order other materials if you have specific requests, if you are willing to wait a while.

also, if you want to know if he is experienced and what kind of work he does, ask him to show you some of the shoes he has finished working on, that are waiting to be picked up by the owners!

but like my cobbler told me actually just yesterday (!) EVERYONE (including experienced cobblers) makes mistakes sometimes (it's craftsmanship, not industrial production) and it is how they deal with the mistakes and service they provide, that show whether they are good or not.

[Ares]

Hey guys. Just got some guidis, my first pair of nice boots. Does it matter if I wear them around for a month or two before rubber soling them? Will it ruin them? I live in Los Angeles. I want to see how they feel without soles before getting I decide to do it.

I take it you are not thinking about completely resoling them, but rather adding a thin strip of rubber over the outsole and the heel?
As ErnstLudwig kindly pointed out, it really does not make a difference when you do that.
The leather sole will compress anyway. It actually helps if the sole is roughened up before the rubber sole appliance (your shoemaker will probably use a sandpaper for that)! But be sure not to damage or wear it out too much though, as it can weaken the adhesive link if it the sole is not corrected after.
And beware! The leather soles will be very slippery the first few weaks. You might want to make little cuts in the sole to create some additional friction.
I do hope you will opt for the original leather sole though, as rubber-soling tends to weaken the leather and I find it aesthetically more pleasing.

Anyone experience with the brand "Topy" rubber sole?
How does it compared to vibram and how much does it usually cost in the US?

Topy makes very good rubber soles. It is as high-end as it gets (Vibram, Dainite, Lactae Hevea, etc.). However, I do tend to prefer Vibram over others, especially when it comes down to boots.
A very basic thin rubber sole installation costs around 20-30$ (it can be more if additional treatment is required).

hey guys just a bit concern. Is the heel an issue here ? If so, repairable or should I not really worry about it ?

How much does the heel move or come off when you try to nudge it? The picture doesn't show how deep the cut actually is.
It could be a bad finishing/construction problem (as nobody knows how to make a good heel these days). Either it is not properly waxed so moisture has infiltrated the leather and weakend it, or it is not properly reinforced/glued so its strenght is compromised.
Or just a sign of substantial wear, which is what I suspect. Did you take care of them? They seem like they have two rough years behind them... You should be regurarily creaming and waxing the whole shoe, not just the uppers.
If you are experiencing problems you should most definetly replace the heel. If I were you, I would probably completely resole them.

[eleven crows]

ares, would you mind giving a shoe/boot/leather care break down? i'll admit that i'm woeful when it comes to a "regular" clean and don't really know the process.

[savant]

How much does the heel move or come off when you try to nudge it? The picture doesn't show how deep the cut actually is.
It could be a bad finishing/construction problem (as nobody knows how to make a good heel these days). Either it is not properly waxed so moisture has infiltrated the leather and weakend it, or it is not properly reinforced/glued so its strenght is compromised.
Or just a sign of substantial wear, which is what I suspect. Did you take care of them? They seem like they have two rough years behind them... You should be regurarily creaming and waxing the whole shoe, not just the uppers.
If you are experiencing problems you should most definetly replace the heel. If I were you, I would probably completely resole them.

not my shoe

just looking to purchase from someone quoting from seller :

"The boots are baby calf leather, vibrammed as well, condition is still good, not getting as much wear as I'd like it to

Worn roughly 10 -15 times? Leather's pretty much how it is as shown in the pics, soles are hardly worn.. Leather smell still strong haha..

Yup, I've got both the box and the little guidi tote bag"

[magic]

there are lots of nail nailed on the first piece of leather that attached to the sole before it got layered, so i wont worry so much if the heel will drop off.

[Creep]

does wooden stacked heels like the ones marsells have need to be vibrammed? the sole is alr made of a kinda rubbery material.

[beardown]

No soles/heels have to be vibramed. It basically provides 2 things: protection and anti-slip/comfort. It's always a matter of choice.

[Ares]

ares, would you mind giving a shoe/boot/leather care break down? i'll admit that i'm woeful when it comes to a "regular" clean and don't really know the process.

I have to admit I am somewhat of an obsessive shoe care freak so do not take my advice as something absolutely indispensable.
Keep in mind that the care depends on the type of the shoes and the leather. Sneakers, trainers, slippers and loafers do not need as much care as shoes or boots. Delicate and reptile leathers require the most care, and pull-up (oily), patent and artificial leathers the least. Nubuck and suede require a completely different care altogether. Here are a few "basic" and very general steps for real leather shoes and boots:

1) Wear
Never wear shoes/boots for two consecutive days or more than 10 hours per day. It will crease and weaken the leather because of the prespiration and constant stress, and subsequently reduce their life span.

2) Before wear
Best case scenario is to polish before each wear. The bare minimum is to polish once per week and just brush them with a soft brush before the wear. The polish will moisturize, nourish and waterproof the leather, while providing a protective coat/shine, preparing them for the wear. This is absolutely essential for any maintenance regime.

3) Putting on
Always use a shoe horn to put them on. Not doing so will over time result in a damaged and cracked heel counter. The best are made from horn, as plastic and metal can damage the leather, but any will do. You do not need shoe horns for boots, but very tight, equestrian boots need a special shaped shoe horn designed to help put them on.

4) Afterwear
Brush them with a hard horsehair brush after each wear. Do not forget the soles! If necessary, wipe them with a clean damp cloth. Never let dust or dirt settle into the shoes. Delicate and reptile leather need to be treated with a softer brush. You need to use a special soft rubber/brush for suede and nubuck shoes.

5) Shoe trees
Use shoe trees after each wear. Moderately hollowed, unfinished cedar wood works the best here, but plastic or even the most basic shoe shapers will do. You do not need to have one pair of shoe trees for each pair of shoes as they need to be inside only for 3-6 hours after taking off the feet. You can use them for another pair the next day (if the size fits). There are special shoe trees for boots but the regular do the trick as well.
This is very essential as it preserves the shape of the leather. Wood will suck out the moisture created from prespiration. Cedar will neutralise any odours.

6) Seasonal maintenance
Big maintenance comes once a season. Do this even if you did not wear them at all the previous season - they need to be moisturized or they will dry out and crack.
First wipe the shoes/boots with a damp cloth.
Then use an in-depth leather cleaning product. I strongly recommend Saphir Reno'Mat for normal leather or a saddle soap for oily leathers. Use it to strip all the layers of wax, cream or settled dirt accumulated over the season. You can use it to periodically clean your brushes as well.
Then use any good leather renovating cream or lotion (I recommend Saphir Renovateur). Apply it in a generous amount with a chamois cloth. Leave it to dry and after 30 min polish with a soft brush. You need to use a separate renovator for greased leather (with more than 15% oil content), as well as for reptile and delicate leather. Never brush reptile and delicate leather too hard. Be very gentle.
Use a special cleaner for suede and nubuck leather. Let it dry for a day and then treat it with a waterproofing/recolouring spray. Let it dry for an hour and use a special brush afterwards if you need to get rid of the “shine”.

7) Resoling
Every few years think about complete resoling. With proper care and regular resoling well made shoes and boots can last a lifetime.

8) Exposition
Never leave them under direct sunlight or near any source of heat. The UV light and the heat is going to destroy the leather.
For rainy days use a special product made for waterproofing. Do not use it too often as it will clog the pores of the leather. If that happens use a in-depth leather cleaner. If the shoes get wet, wipe them with a clean cloth, put the shoe trees inside and fill the rest with newspaper. Do not be tempted to artificially dry them. Absolutely avoid rain if the shoes have a painted finish or very delicate leather and soles (there is a saying in Paris - "bad time to leave in a Berluti").

9) Storage
If you do not intend to wear them for some time it is best to put them away so they do not gather dust. However, never put them in a plastic bag or box. If you really need to, put them in a carton box, but it is best to use cotton bags. If the leather does not have a constant air flow it will dry out and crack.

Polishing procedure
Saphir Medaille D'or makes what is probably the best shoe cream in the world (3/4 of the high-end bespoke shoemakers use rebranded Saphir products - the other 1/4 are lying :P). You can use any other though, just make sure it has natural ingredients (like beeswax and mink oil).
Note that there is a difference between shoe cream and shoe polish. Shoe cream provides better nourishment and polish provides higher shine, but can dry out the leather. It is best to alternate beetwen the two or use them in a combination. There are many ways to apply them and you should experiment to find the procedure that works the best for you.
I would suggest this:
1) Wrap a soft chamois cotton cloth around your fingers or take a small round brush and use a little of shoe cream of the appropriate colour (always use one shade lighter rather than darker). Use neutral coloured if in doubt. You can use small amounts of other colours to make accents.
2) Using small, circular motions work your way around the shoe. Remove the laces for a better view of the tongue. If they are made out of leather you can use the cream on them as well. Do not forget the sole and the welt. Apply the most generous amount on the places where you can see the most creases (usually the vamp). Do not use too much though, as it will take longer to dry.
3) Let dry for at least 30 min. 1-2 hours would be optimal.
4) Polish with a soft brush to remove excess cream and bring out the shine.
5) If you need more shine, apply a small amount (with brush or cloth) of neutral coloured shoe polish on the places like the toe cap, the heel and the sole.
6) Polish with a soft chamois cotton cloth. Use your breath or drops of water to bring out the high gloss.
7) Repeat step 5 and 6 if necessary.

Never polish exotic, nubuck and suede leather. It only needs seasonal maintenance. Use a special polish for cordovan leather. Oiled leather needs to be polished with a special neutral-colour greased (15% oil) polish only once a month.
Do not use polish or a cream for other leather goods such as bags and wallets. Use leather cleaners and lotions once a season.

[Shucks]

tl;dr

[lowrey]

holy shit

To give an alternative perspective, personally I kick my shoes on and off, don't tie them properly, store them on the floor, and never ever polish them. the only thing I do to clean them is wipe them with a damp towel maybe once or twice a year. has worked fine for me.

[copacetic]

Ares has probably struck fear into the heart of every noob on this forum.

[SlightRight]

I have to admit I am somewhat of an obsessive shoe care freak so do not take my advice as something absolutely indispensable.
Keep in mind that the care depends on the type of the shoes and the leather. Sneakers, trainers, slippers and loafers do not need as much care as shoes or boots. Delicate and reptile leathers require the most care, and pull-up (oily), patent and artificial leathers the least. Nubuck and suede require a completely different care altogether. Here are a few "basic" and very general steps for real leather shoes and boots:

1) Wear
Never wear shoes/boots for two consecutive days or more than 10 hours per day. It will crease and weaken the leather because of the prespiration and constant stress, and subsequently reduce their life span.

2) Before wear
Best case scenario is to polish before each wear. The bare minimum is to polish once per week and just brush them with a soft brush before the wear. The polish will moisturize, nourish and waterproof the leather, while providing a protective coat/shine, preparing them for the wear. This is absolutely essential for any maintenance regime.

3) Putting on
Always use a shoe horn to put them on. Not doing so will over time result in a damaged and cracked heel counter. The best are made from horn, as plastic and metal can damage the leather, but any will do. You do not need shoe horns for boots, but very tight, equestrian boots need a special shaped shoe horn designed to help put them on.

4) Afterwear
Brush them with a hard horsehair brush after each wear. Do not forget the soles! If necessary, wipe them with a clean damp cloth. Never let dust or dirt settle into the shoes. Delicate and reptile leather need to be treated with a softer brush. You need to use a special soft rubber/brush for suede and nubuck shoes.

5) Shoe trees
Use shoe trees after each wear. Moderately hollowed, unfinished cedar wood works the best here, but plastic or even the most basic shoe shapers will do. You do not need to have one pair of shoe trees for each pair of shoes as they need to be inside only for 3-6 hours after taking off the feet. You can use them for another pair the next day (if the size fits). There are special shoe trees for boots but the regular do the trick as well.
This is very essential as it preserves the shape of the leather. Wood will suck out the moisture created from prespiration. Cedar will neutralise any odours.

6) Seasonal maintenance
Big maintenance comes once a season. Do this even if you did not wear them at all the previous season - they need to be moisturized or they will dry out and crack.
First wipe the shoes/boots with a damp cloth.
Then use an in-depth leather cleaning product. I strongly recommend Saphir Reno'Mat for normal leather or a saddle soap for oily leathers. Use it to strip all the layers of wax, cream or settled dirt accumulated over the season. You can use it to periodically clean your brushes as well.
Then use any good leather renovating cream or lotion (I recommend Saphir Renovateur). Apply it in a generous amount with a chamois cloth. Leave it to dry and after 30 min polish with a soft brush. You need to use a separate renovator for greased leather (with more than 15% oil content), as well as for reptile and delicate leather. Never brush reptile and delicate leather too hard. Be very gentle.
Use a special cleaner for suede and nubuck leather. Let it dry for a day and then treat it with a waterproofing/recolouring spray. Let it dry for an hour and use a special brush afterwards if you need to get rid of the “shine”.

7) Resoling
Every few years think about complete resoling. With proper care and regular resoling well made shoes and boots can last a lifetime.

8) Exposition
Never leave them under direct sunlight or near any source of heat. The UV light and the heat is going to destroy the leather.
For rainy days use a special product made for waterproofing. Do not use it too often as it will clog the pores of the leather. If that happens use a in-depth leather cleaner. If the shoes get wet, wipe them with a clean cloth, put the shoe trees inside and fill the rest with newspaper. Do not be tempted to artificially dry them. Absolutely avoid rain if the shoes have a painted finish or very delicate leather and soles (there is a saying in Paris - "bad time to leave in a Berluti").

9) Storage
If you do not intend to wear them for some time it is best to put them away so they do not gather dust. However, never put them in a plastic bag or box. If you really need to, put them in a carton box, but it is best to use cotton bags. If the leather does not have a constant air flow it will dry out and crack.

Polishing procedure
Saphir Medaille D'or makes what is probably the best shoe cream in the world (3/4 of the high-end bespoke shoemakers use rebranded Saphir products - the other 1/4 are lying :P). You can use any other though, just make sure it has natural ingredients (like beeswax and mink oil).
Note that there is a difference between shoe cream and shoe polish. Shoe cream provides better nourishment and polish provides higher shine, but can dry out the leather. It is best to alternate beetwen the two or use them in a combination. There are many ways to apply them and you should experiment to find the procedure that works the best for you.
I would suggest this:
1) Wrap a soft chamois cotton cloth around your fingers or take a small round brush and use a little of shoe cream of the appropriate colour (always use one shade lighter rather than darker). Use neutral coloured if in doubt. You can use small amounts of other colours to make accents.
2) Using small, circular motions work your way around the shoe. Remove the laces for a better view of the tongue. If they are made out of leather you can use the cream on them as well. Do not forget the sole and the welt. Apply the most generous amount on the places where you can see the most creases (usually the vamp). Do not use too much though, as it will take longer to dry.
3) Let dry for at least 30 min. 1-2 hours would be optimal.
4) Polish with a soft brush to remove excess cream and bring out the shine.
5) If you need more shine, apply a small amount (with brush or cloth) of neutral coloured shoe polish on the places like the toe cap, the heel and the sole.
6) Polish with a soft chamois cotton cloth. Use your breath or drops of water to bring out the high gloss.
7) Repeat step 5 and 6 if necessary.

Never polish exotic, nubuck and suede leather. It only needs seasonal maintenance. Use a special polish for cordovan leather. Oiled leather needs to be polished with a special neutral-colour greased (15% oil) polish only once a month.
Do not use polish or a cream for other leather goods such as bags and wallets. Use leather cleaners and lotions once a season.

I believe those procedures are best for dress shoes.
We don't "take care of them" here.