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Quality vs. Aesthetic. Is there a disconnect?

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  • delphine
    Member
    • Sep 2009
    • 82

    #31
    I'm a little late to the conversation but reading through I thought of a few things to add (although I think I've forgotten most of them now) -

    I sort of aggree with Faust that the prices of most designers seem outlandish.. then again, I know that even with those prices many struggle to keep there heads above water. If you you've ever seen what it takes to put some of these garments together, even in the factory, what's really a wonder is how cheap most of the stuff out there is - and the answer not only enormous production in the 3rd world but a complicated supply chain and very small profit margins all around that are regained by quantity..

    Working back in the conversation, one of the initial things mentioned was the fact that a $40 Chinese made pair of jeans holds up as well or better than [fill in the blank].. I think it's a common misconception that China (or Korea, or Portugal, or the others) equals poor quality. In fact, a garment made in the US is generally made by Chinese, Koreans, or South Americans, a garment made in Japan is often made by Koreans, etc. And the seamstresses/seamsters in China, etc. are often highly "educated" and skilled. The bad rap probably comes from 1) the obvious difficulty of remote quality control and 2) brands producing there are, from the beginning, trying to cut costs and have likely done so with the design as well.

    Which brings me to the last item, and that is the fact that good quality starts with the design. Although some things are an issue at the factory - for example, a silk may have been sturdily sewn together in sampling but the tension was neglected for production hence the falling apart that some experience with the thin yet strong fabrics - there are many very simply choices in the design process that can make a huge difference whether or not a garment falls apart. For example, one thing that has bewildered me is when people equate an absence of topstitching with quality. If it's not done right, this only makes the garment one stitch weaker where it sometimes really need the reinforcement. Although I'm not a fan of decorative topstiching, a little topstich around a welt pocket will go a long way to strenthen it. And some of the "experimental" garments really shouldn't have been released because they're simply acheiving what they want aesthetically and saying 'oh, fuck it' when it doesn't hold up.

    Forgive the random ramble

    Comment

    • Fade to Black
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2008
      • 5340

      #32
      Originally posted by delphine View Post

      I think it's a common misconception that China (or Korea, or Portugal, or the others) equals poor quality. In fact, a garment made in the US is generally made by Chinese, Koreans, or South Americans, a garment made in Japan is often made by Koreans, etc. And the seamstresses/seamsters in China, etc. are often highly "educated" and skilled. The bad rap probably comes from 1) the obvious difficulty of remote quality control and 2) brands producing there are, from the beginning, trying to cut costs and have likely done so with the design as well.
      Heh, haven't you heard? 'Made in Italy' is the luxury world's favorite euphemism for 'Made in China.'
      www.matthewhk.net

      let me show you a few thangs

      Comment

      • eat me
        Senior Member
        • May 2009
        • 648

        #33
        I don't think designers (NB, I am biased, being one myself) are actually trying screw someone over with their prices; cutting fabric and manufacturing quality.

        Once you add up manufacturing costs nowadays (especially if you're not going overseas), pr costs, showroom/catwalk costs, and most notably, store cuts (taking 2,5x cut, and doing so little in comparison is hideous) - it's quite a tidy sum. And if you want every garment researched to the fullest in terms of fit and wear-and-tear scenarios, that's additional time and probably staff as well, which again, adds to the cost.

        I think for the majority of young/alternative designers here (unless they are doing the same jacket for 10 years in a row), they simply don't sell in sufficient volume to afford to spend extra time and money on making sure the manufacturing lives up to the highest expectations (on par with brands that are vertically integrated and have millions to spend on R&D). And they can't really put the price up either, as no one will buy into them then.

        Having said all that, there is a lot a designer CAN and SHOULD do, to ensure that he is getting the best possible quality out of his suppliers, and making sure his construction decisions don't affect the wearer in they ways not intended.

        Comment

        • eat me
          Senior Member
          • May 2009
          • 648

          #34
          dude, you're spamming my inbox, please stop. Sell it on eBay instead, kay?

          Comment

          • janinvan
            Junior Member
            • Dec 2010
            • 4

            #35
            I have to say that even though some of my favorite sweater designs from the last few years have been from Luxurie (LRG) they are almost all ready for the bin. Mostly it's the stitching, they just don't want to stay together. It seems to be the case with the men's stuff as well. My husband has hoodies from 5 years ago that are in better shape than the new ones I got for him 6 months ago. I don't know if LRG has outsourced their production to somewhere more shoddy but their quality has gone down from our experience.

            The best ratio I ever get of quality, aesthetics, and cost seem to come from winners and their various 'generic' brands.

            Comment


            • #36
              quick good affordable

              you can have only two
              you choose

              Comment

              • widmerpool
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2010
                • 151

                #37
                I don't mind delicate fabrics, the fact that care needs to be taken with some clothes is part of the enjoyment. I can't stand shoddy workmanship. I was looking at a rack of Damir Doma last week and every single top had seams coming apart.

                Re BBS, I also have no problems, with pants and coats at least.
                http://asteroidanxiety.bandcamp.com

                Comment

                • ImaPro
                  Member
                  • Oct 2010
                  • 57

                  #38
                  Originally posted by Faust View Post
                  "here is 10 million bucks for your company, and you can stay and create and we will take care of business, so you don't have to worry about the mundane stuff like accounting" would I say no? Probably not. Helmut did not, Jil did not, Margiela did not, and these are respectable creative names. Ann did a similar thing (of course her situation is different and Ann Chapelle was a friend and a neighbor - she is not exactly Bertelli or Rosso, you know). Rick said no, and I respect him for that.
                  Thank God, Just Image his prices rising and quality dropping (even more) ?
                  Originally posted by merz
                  ...which the wealthy attempt to buy taste by way of ballin' outta control & inflating values for everyone.

                  Comment

                  • kuugaia
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2010
                    • 1007

                    #39
                    Originally posted by beardown View Post
                    Have you found that the quality of garments you buy reflects the price you've paid? Is it a concern for you? Do you really get what you pay for in terms of garment construction?
                    Haven't fully recuperated from my holiday yet, but I just needed to chime into this discussion. Thanks beardown.

                    I don't think the 'construction quality' alone of any garment I've bought reflects the price I've paid, except surprisingly...Uniqlo. The +J selection is fair priced and I have not found a better cut plain t-shirt than theirs. My LUC longsleeve is 50 times the price and pills. My MA+ jacket has become floppy in areas not originally desired. DD stitches have snapped. I could go on, but it's not really the point because these problems are somewhat expected. After all...they're also just clothes...they will eventually break like any other.

                    So what exactly is it that we are paying for? Interest1 and Christian's discussion that I read long ago really adds to this topic and I think necessary to bring up. It's about the Ann feather necklace, which most people will know is a high priced accessory, and pretty much whether or not it was worth purchasing:

                    interest1 (directed at Christian):

                    On the contrary: it's only bad ideas that end up costing us; never the good ones

                    I was having a conversation with a friend last night about the concept of pricing an idea, and your post about having reservations over paying so much for "only a (very good) idea" was brought up. I wanted to share it with you, Christian, because your struggle to justify the expense on that Ann feather necklace plays perfectly into the heart of the discussion.

                    He summed it up best by pointing out something significant, yet often overlooked or trivialized: which is that it doesn't matter if anyone can essentially hang a feather on a chain and save themselves all that money. What matters is that someone else came up with an original IDEA that gave birth to something YOU now covet, and how we should honor this reality is by compensating it. This matters as equally as the level of its quality or the designer name it bears, and perhaps even more so. There's someone on the forum whose signature says something like "an artist is not paid for his labor, but for his vision", which couldn't be more true in this case. You might be BUYING a feather on a chain–but you are PAYING for an idea. And when that idea moves you, no matter how simple it may be, there is no putting a value on it.
                    Not sure if I'm on topic to be honest, but for some reason after reading this thread I just immediately thought about that discussion and needed to quote it. So I suppose what I'm trying to say is that where the price of a garment differs in your expected construction quality...hopefully what you'd pay for in the idea makes up for the difference.
                    Last edited by kuugaia; 01-26-2011, 10:11 AM. Reason: typo

                    Comment

                    • headpower
                      Junior Member
                      • Aug 2009
                      • 22

                      #40
                      What''s people thought on paper thin R.O / Julius Tees?

                      I have owned a couple of R.O/Julius Tshirt made with cotton or silk/rayon blend, and they are prone to holes, what's people take on this perspective, I heard it is Rick's vision that holes should develop in his clothing through time and he calls it "evolution". For ordinary folks like me, I just sractched my head and wishes R.O/ julius should be at least more durable for the price I paid.

                      I bought some japanese local brand like dirain that has julius drape style t shirt and they are silky smooth yet they are at least 3x more durable than julius tee, but again and again i go back to julius because of the unique style and cut.

                      What's people opinion on this matter?

                      Comment

                      • headpower
                        Junior Member
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 22

                        #41
                        if you could direct me to the appropriate thread, i would appreciate it. I tried to use the search function with keywords such as rick owens + Hole and it doesnt give me any results

                        Comment

                        • mrbeuys
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2008
                          • 2313

                          #42
                          Someone post a face palm please.

                          On the subject tho, I love them with and without holes. 'Evolution' is a bit rich, but I just don't mind it and I always have a few new ones when I need to look presentable. But I literally don't wear any other tops day to day.
                          Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

                          Comment

                          • beardown
                            rekoner
                            • Feb 2009
                            • 1418

                            #43
                            There are a couple of threads dedicated to similar topics, but I only spent about 3 minute searching:

                            quality vs. aesthetic

                            what are you paying for

                            what do you consider quality?

                            I've never been a fan of the 'decay' defense from Rick but generally people know when they buy a fine piece of clothing (in terms of fragile material) they also know it is not a heavy duty long-haul piece.

                            I have some that I've washed by hand that have lasted a few years, which is about typical of other t-shirts. These shirts are not made for rough and tumble activity....we know that when we buy. And we know that price isn't an indication of quality necessarily (unfortunately) when it comes to longevity.

                            It's just a personal choice: You either buy knowing they're fragile or you don't buy because it's a questionable investment if you're looking for something that will last for the long haul.
                            Originally posted by mizzar
                            Sorry for being kind of a dick to you.

                            Comment

                            • messenoire
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2009
                              • 1232

                              #44
                              you don't buy rick for durability. i feel the comparison to julius is unfair because julius's textile research seems like it exceeds ricks by a longshot. this comparison confuses me because of what julius has in mind within their "neotokyo" universe versus rick's elegant ruins. julius, for a high end basic, is pretty durable.

                              Comment

                              • Uncontrol
                                Senior Member
                                • Feb 2008
                                • 249

                                #45
                                Originally posted by messenoire View Post
                                i feel the comparison to julius is unfair because julius's textile research seems like it exceeds ricks by a longshot.
                                how is that not fair? certainly RO has the resources to do it just as well.

                                Comment

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