Originally posted by Faust
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A lot have things have been said here that i haven't had time to respond to some of them as i would have liked
Albert touched on something very important about the issue of taped seams and all.
The truth is that there is very little experiment and innovation going on in the "artisanal" niche. there is an endless regurgitation of stale ideas and very few people are doing any kind of real research and true design. Neither in fabric development, In pattern cutting or construction techniques. The truth of the matter is that I am beginning to find that most of the designers are either lazy or lack ideas and are comfortable coasting on relationships formed that guarantees a certain level of support rather than pressing on to developing new works. I hate to make those kind of statements because as a designer I do not want to offend my peers or come across as taking a swipe at anyone as i find such things to be of poor taste. What Thom Browne is doing and what Junya did this season way more interesting than anything (place artisanal designer name here) has done over the last several seasons.
Other than LEB, I do not see any of the newer designers bringing anything remotely interesting to the table.
Of course I do not want to see taped seams for the sake to taped seams or because I think its cool and will get me some sales and cred among certain people. What I see happening is that designers is some of them are more concerned about instagram, Twitter and promoting the Cult of the designer than building up a body of work that is unique and stand apart from their peers.
Geoffrey B Small is on a path to doing something really special and meaningful and i really don't see it getting the kind of support that i would love to see. HIs working techniques and ideas are not New but on a world where true craftsmanship and the skill of a great tailor is a dying entity, he has become a true champion for real handmade designer menswear that is not boring, stiff and uninteresting.....Which reminds me of something i knew already and always concerned me. A lot of customers do not buy clothing for the quality of the item, the aesthetic refinement and the philosophical underpinnings represented in the integrity of the clothes. Now we have created a system through mediums like SZ where clothing is bought based on the credibility it brings among or peers, based on the resale value it has if we ever get bored of it or see something more desirable that we can spin currently owned clothing to acquire. All of these factors seemed to have become major considerations o clothing choices for many consumers.
Faust, on not buying Ann. I have kept quiet about my speculations for a while, but what i think what has happened is that the label Ann not longer represents the philosophy and ideas of the Woman Ann. This is something i saw from several seasons before she stepped away, both in the work itself and some of the things she said in her interviews. I think one of the reasons she left the company was because she had true integrity as a designer and a person and possibly could not feel comfortable to stand behind a brand whose products no longer lived up to the standards she believed in. for someone like you who know what the clothes were in the early 2000's its hard to accept buying now when there is a clear and obvious decline in the quality of what is produced now under her name.
the truth is that running a design business is NOT EASY and in many instances its a money losing venture. Customer often look at the prices and say the designers are ridiculous or they are ripping people off, but then if designers we making so much money of of the work, how do we see so many designers clothing their companies, hiring themselves out to other brands to keep afloat and selling out to large conglomerates in order to survive??
things to consider.......
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