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Walked into L'Eclaireur today and the next season's jackets are 500 euro more expensive than the last season's. So, here is an open letter from Faust to Paul Harnden.
Paul,
You are an asshole. You have capitalized on the exposure StyleZeitgeist have given you by consistently jacking up prices by 20-30% each season for the past few years, pricing out the very people who not only appreciate your work but make it look good, so others can buy into it. I know you won't read this, but someone who knows you will. So, fuck you.
Faust
cross-posted for discussion... feel free to delete if you'd rather have the letter stand for itself
_
i'm curious, what made this sticker shock so offensive (as to warrant an online shaming)? like you said this has been happening for years with PH, & other designers like MA+ A1923 et al.
MA+ has always been rather extravagantly priced, though, or at least since I started following the brand. The egregious thing about Paul Harnden is the dramatic rise in pricing as the brand's popularity has soared - pricing out the very people who may have appreciated the work in the first place. And it's not a slight increase either, it's a substantial rise in prices with each consecutive season. I purchased a blazer for about $1400 in 2011. They now run about double that.
All I've heard and read is that Mr. Rick punched him for his shenanigans after he came back-stage. Subsequently, he was also dropped by his modeling agency. drama drama drama drama
I am interested in the meaning of the message though. Any German posters, or anyone that knows about German politics, why someone would protest Chancellor Merkel?
I mean i might be wrong about this but isn't PH's issue grounded in the fact that there was no recognition as to this website's effect on the brand. I believe both amadei and simone have recognized the website's effect in some way?
You could argue that certain users here are responsible for styling the jackets well and enticing a lot of people on the internet to buy them. I believe a brand like PH relies on the web so heavily for exposure, that it's undeniable its success is based on it. Wouldn't he also be, out of all the designers and artisans discussed on this website, one of the figures that is most secluded from the industry?
"He described this initial impetus as like discovering that they both were looking at the same intriguing specific tropical fish, with attempts to understand it leading to a huge ferocious formalism he characterizes as a shark that leapt out of the tank."
Yeah, although MA+ prices have risen a fair bit. But yeah, always egregious. I sympathise more with those designers whose work shows more attention to detail--Its ironic that I can pay less for a Taichi coat than a PH jacket, considering that the Taichi coat has some obsessive detailing, silver fittings, and serious R&D each season for new fabrics, etc.
PH raises his prices because he can, that's the real insult.
I really do not want to justify his prices because I find them equally ridiculous as most of here, but isn't PH dependent of 1 local mill and the production of wool in the area etc... making it difficult to source. And if the local mill and/or farmers raise their prices, he must follow as well? May this could add up to the yearly inflation and causes prices to go Everest high?
All I've heard and read is that Mr. Rick punched him for his shenanigans after he came back-stage. Subsequently, he was also dropped by his modeling agency. drama drama drama drama
I am interested in the meaning of the message though. Any German posters, or anyone that knows about German politics, why someone would protest Chancellor Merkel?
german friend and i talked about it the other day, actually. i think the deal is that a lot of people oppose her easy comparability to, and her praise of thatcher and similar policies.
plus; any polarizing and notable political figure this side of cincinnatus is bound to promote detractors.
It might lead to lower production of pieces relative to demand, but that doesn't mean he has to raise prices as he has. And no way is it a wool issue (unless you're joking, can't tell)--it's at most fabric a production issue, but if he could produce jackets using that mill for 1.5 a few years back at a lower volume, increased orders are only going decrease the price for the fabrics he buys, if anything--less test runs per fabric buy, and so forth.
He may want to keep his current lifestyle while selling less. And no, I wasn't joking. Don't have knowledge about his actual sources and suppliers, it's from limited info I've read only. I've also read he just only buys the testruns
I like to pretend that there's a bizarre love triangle between Rick, Benoit, and Jera, and that this was really about jealousy and not politics.
Anyone have opinions on Craig Green around here? I see so much hype around him everywhere but nothing about him here.
I think a lot of the pieces are very interesting albeit a little difficult to style with all the dangling shit coming off them. Can't speak to quality though, haven't handled anything in person yet.
I like to pretend that there's a bizarre love triangle between Rick, Benoit, and Jera, and that this was really about jealousy and not politics.
Anyone have opinions on Craig Green around here? I see so much hype around him everywhere but nothing about him here.
craigs work is cool. i find he doesn't live up to the hype created by tumblr and social media and all that, but it's nice enough stuff for the level of work and originality found within. i've handled it a bit in person, and quality is pretty solid. worth buying if that's the look you want.
Yeah, MA+ was the first comparison I thought of, too.
PH pricing feels more insane I think because the rise has been really rapid over the last few years as he's gained popularity--and I'm not sure how big a role SZ played in popularising MA+, compared to PH.
MA+ has always been rather extravagantly priced, though, or at least since I started following the brand. The egregious thing about Paul Harnden is the dramatic rise in pricing as the brand's popularity has soared - pricing out the very people who may have appreciated the work in the first place. And it's not a slight increase either, it's a substantial rise in prices with each consecutive season. I purchased a blazer for about $1400 in 2011. They now run about double that.
Makes me not so feel bad about buying Bergfabel
Originally posted by fit magna caedes
Yeah, he wants his cake and to eat it too, avoiding internet engagement and hype while in fact depending on it to keep raising his prices (and yes, they are insane, hats have doubled in price for the same model in a couple of years--although part of that might be our godawful dollar, now that I think about it ). A very different model to the active engagement by people like Zam, Geoffrey, who I feel show respect for their customers in the way they interact with us on here.
PH raises his prices because he can, that's the real insult.
i can see the difference (ire) in terms of behavioral economics, e.g. M.A+ prices have doubled too, but in 6-8 years instead of PH's 4
either way the end result is ridiculous pricing.
& re: SZ – i think the forum's early years were equally responsible for all post-carpe popularity
though nowadays nobody seems to give a fuck about these brands/designers – probably because they've priced themselves out of the conversation...
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