What are you wearing today?

[voltbird]

I tried the black laces and wasn't too fond of them! I like the white accent, especially since it's more of an ecru and not this super stark white. But maybe I'll warm up to them eventually... or just wear them without any laces at all.

[Faust]

It seems like the discussion here is limited to a certain area of the spectrum in terms of brands, which is fine with me personally. Faust have you looked at brands like engineered garments and the others under the nepenthes umbrella? Extremely high quality from a fabrication standpoint, made in the us, relatively fair price point etc, not discussed here because it doesn't fit the aesthetic for sale. Not trying to stir shit trying to ask what I think are questions of whats our aim here, what is quality, does the definition stay the same over time etc

I look at EG from time to time when I'm at Pitti Uomo just out of curiosity. As you know, aesthetically it's miles away from what I'd consider.

I don't see how you can change definition of quality - good fabrics, good dye, good treatments, good construction, good finishing. Having had a history of looking at designer clothes for a good 16 years now, the overall decrease in quality is hard to doubt.

The workwear thing - there is a flip side to this. Take visvim for example - it's fantastically well-made but only the hardcore fans will care. How do you get excited about khaki pants that cost $500 and don't look much different from other khaki pants until you expect them closely?

Or something like this?

https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/product/visvim/indigo-albacore-damaged-shirt/900603

Or this?

https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/product/visvim/white-duke-sunshine-shirt/893703

[Faust]

In my opinion...

Look at this end of the industry, very few buyers are concerned with quality... iv been in a ton of showrooms both mens and womens during fashion week and they quickly go around the showroom selecting pieces putting it on a rail and then getting a model to try it on while they gossip with the designer/staff etc, conscious that they are already late for the next appointment. They take a photo on the model ask the price occasionally, and just see how much the total buy is and wether it fits in with their budget. No inspection of finishing, construction, asking where its made, weights of fabrics, no concern where the fabric is even really from. This is not all but certainly the majority.

In my opinion the consumer checks the garment far closer than they buyer. Very rarely do they buyers know how garments are even made. This side of the industry is focused on silhouette and aesthetic. The word artisan gets thrown around here so much its a joke.

If you go over to a more workwear side of the industry, or even sartorial they are far more focused on construction and details.

I think the digital age, Rana Plaza, financial crisis, have certainly create a more informed customer. People have not been discouraged to shop for clothes, but if they are going to pay a considerable amount for a garment they want something that is going to last. Even in this aesthetic driven area of fashion people are questioning why is ann charging me xxx amount for this garment which is considerably more than say acne, apc, or even cos etc when they quality is worse...? People will pay a price for aesthetic design but that doesn't excuse quality.

Yeah, there are certainly buyers like that.

[Arkady]

Those Visvim prices just justified every cent I've ever spent on muumuus and skirts.

[Faust]

Don't get me wrong - I respect visvim for what Hiroki does in terms of manufacturing and inspiration - it was just an example how aesthetics can detract from value. These pieces definitely don't look special until you inspect them closely.

[snafu]

In regard to the post above: "A whisper is often louder than a shout"

Well now we just come down to subjective taste...

Visvim no doubt is fantastically and beautifully made... no matter the design wether its your taste or not. Personally i think its fucking nice, though i doubt id actually end up wearing much... though i should try. We all have broken a barrier from an average/regular price point of a garment on this forum. The same people who buy visvim chinos may say how can you get excited about looking like a goth idiot with shredded tees and jeans i.e. Julius or Undercover for example when you could just go to a thrift store and buy some fucked tees and jeans for lower price and possibly better made? I mean i don't care about individual tastes we each have our own.

But reality is i think there is a price for design, but with that price for design should come quality. I may contradict myself: because i wear alot of carol no doubt its very well made; in regards to the classic pieces certainly and they do last, but reality is his taped seams come apart after wear, its often impractical. Who needs elf edge: its so fucking wasteful, who needs titanium elbows: the riders in hitting the apex, not fashionistas, and quite honestly whoever sews his buttons on is doing a shit job. I can do better myself. But i still buy it because i feel he explores areas very consciously and ttys to do the best quality he can when doing so, also i like his cut of a suit, it fits me, his fabrics are great i my personal taste. Which is why i pay in many peoples eyes a stupid amount of money.

People when paying over the normal price for clothing, lets say high street, chain stores and so on, both want design and imperatively quality. There is no excuse for just one or the other any more. There is far more today (to use a marketing term) a 'connoisseur customer': hence why they are paying more; it for a reason. Now i feel this section or area of the industry forgets about the latter: quality, many rave about how 'sick this shit looks' but in reality quality is still a key factor to the buyer/wearer. If the quality isn't there we feel like we have been 'mugged off' : benign made a fool of. Honestly though fashion really does make a fool of us all.... certainly there would be better things for all of us to spend money on.

Anyway certainly in menswear is far more about the whole story of a garment, where its made, how its made, the tradition, research and approach to clothing than in womenswear its vital to selling the product look at the mythical Altieri,,, £3k for shoes that still sell but the quality is fucking great is it worth the money well how can you say what is it comparable to? John Lobb, but then you go down to aesthetics... and then where do you draw the line?

Im happy to pay silly money for clothes but I'm not simply paying for aesthetic quality has to be there.

Anyway going back to Rick nearly all the quality has really improved in his garments over the last few seasons and especially footwear. In regards to hi leather: he does offer good leathers in the showroom but it takes a decent buyer to buy them.

[LOVE]

EXACTLY. What is quality really? What are we paying money for? My example with this is always BBS who I respect and I like the designs but I never understood how anyone could pay that much for raw hems even on the interior of the garments? Like how far does the "unfinished as an aesthetic" go as an excuse (not just with BBS there are countless other brands who do "shredded" etc)? My position is that I'm here to learn, I don't really have the formal knowledge here just my own direction and taste so I'm not sure, it just all seems incredibly subjective in the end. Are there simply just less benchmarks than with traditional tailored menswear?

[TriggerDiscipline]

EXACTLY. What is quality really? What are we paying money for? My example with this is always BBS who I respect and I like the designs but I never understood how anyone could pay that much for raw hems even on the interior of the garments? Like how far does the "unfinished as an aesthetic" go as an excuse (not just with BBS there are countless other brands who do "shredded" etc)? My position is that I'm here to learn, I don't really have the formal knowledge here just my own direction and taste so I'm not sure, it just all seems incredibly subjective in the end. Are there simply just less benchmarks than with traditional tailored menswear?

BBS doesn't really do raw hems anymore, and BBS has improved in quality dramatically compared 2012 for instance.

also I can tell you right now, that it's not easy to get a fabric that can actually hold up enough to stay the way it is. it's the reason serging / binding / tape is a thing.

[applecrisp]

voltbird, I think the pieces could work but maybe don't lace the 'baskets all the way to the top hole. And are they tied very loosely? I think tying them tighter would help the silhouette.

Whats the jacket/sweater/hoodie piece in the second look?

[DudleyGray]

voltbird, I think the pieces could work but maybe don't lace the 'baskets all the way to the top hole. And are they tied very loosely? I think tying them tighter would help the silhouette.

Whats the jacket/sweater/hoodie piece in the second look?

I disagree with the lacing, 2nd fit is on point imo.

EDIT:

VVV Also on point. Not much of a Julius guy but damn, that's a good first post.

[Blacknight]

First time posting here.

[devour]

^ Perfect fit

[yffet]

Yeah thats a nice 1st post !! Pants are also julius?

[Fuuma]

Cap: Supreme (tie dye for added horror)
Shirt: Dior Homme
Sweater: Gosha
Jeans: Uniqlo
Trainers: Margiela
DSM bag: Craig Green parka (so you're missing the interesting part )

[Fuuma]

Junya/CdG jacket, CdG shirt, YYPH trousers, Hermès scarf and bag, Alden cordovan boots

I love this and hope you'd take better so we can appreciate it better.