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Hello, from a dusty basement

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  • lupus
    Junior Member
    • Nov 2013
    • 11

    Hello, from a dusty basement

    I have been a SZ wallflower for quite some time. I love these forums- the commentary, the criticism, the snarky battles and the incomparable insight of such a high degree. I have not come across another community like this. So I would like to finally come out of my hole and introduce myself by exposing myself (not in the rick sense of course).

    I am a primarily self taught menswear designer from Los Angeles. I studied fine art for a few years then apprenticed for a short but impactful amount of time with a designer familiar to this community. Below are a few results from my experiments in fleshing out an aesthetic.

    I would love a good sz-style beat down-i find the strongest motivation comes from the hardest hits.

    If you would like to see more, I have recently put up a proper portfolio - russelltmiller.com


    Anyway, my name is Tyler.

    Thank you all for looking. I hope to finally contribute to this community.

     photo JACKET 1 SIDE 2.jpg
     photo PARACHUTE BACK 1.jpg
     photo JACKET 2 FRONT 1.jpg
     photo cut kneck side 2b.jpg
     photo JAG IN SPACE.jpg
     photo GLOVE DETAIL.jpg
    Last edited by coup de grace; 01-31-2015, 06:02 PM.
  • applecrisp
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2013
    • 104

    #2
    WOW, your work looks great. It's new and different and not the usual derivative of the popular designers around here.

    Were most of your pieces draped? Or have you worked with drafted patterns? All the darting looks as though it's something that could only come from some draping, but they're so precise, that some pattern drafting is assumed as well.

    Only criticism would be to find a better model (sorry if it's you).

    Really nice work.

    Comment

    • lupus
      Junior Member
      • Nov 2013
      • 11

      #3
      Thank you applecrisp! For the most part I start by draping onto a fit-block muslin shell that I work on my roommate- the gentlemen pictured. He's a very patient guy and actually likes to be used as a manniquin. Unfortunately he doesn't have that look that I would prefer in a model which is why the other pieces are shown on a retail mannequin. The gloves didn't sit right on the mannequin so he filled in.

      Comment

      • HugAndWug
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2014
        • 197

        #4
        Ok I'd actually recommend to people looking at this to check his portfolio as it has more pictures/angles.

        The other jacket you posted made me smile once I realized how it actually is. When you're making clothes what do you have in mind?

        Comment

        • Baddarn
          Member
          • Oct 2013
          • 35

          #5
          This is really good! Especially fond of the heavy canvas (?) jacket! Looks so alive, but beat down, with the colours making me think about bruises and the zippers looking like wounds.

          Comment

          • Chinorlz
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 6422

            #6
            Tyler, this is great work with some portion to me borderline genius.

            I LOVE the seams on the long sleeve where a straight line crosses the front neckline and then arcs down the shoulders. Really creative with a solid execution.

            Your gloves are also awesome. The finger construction is one of those "damn, why didn't I think of that" moments and super cool. The way you have a "foldover" portion of the gloves similar to how there are two "layers" to the neckline of the long sleeve is really nice as well. Even as standalone gloves they would be great.

            Keep up the good work and keep going with your trajectory... and don't add tape seams or overlock to anything.
            www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

            Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

            Comment

            • lupus
              Junior Member
              • Nov 2013
              • 11

              #7
              thank you all for your kind words.

              HUGANDWIG- I suppose what I have in mind is the beaten body of man and the mechanisms the body has to repair itself. This has shown up in a literal sense in the dye- most of the pieces have been dyed then bleached then dyed again with various applications of veg dye which gives it bruised sort of look with hints of blues and reds and yellows. I was hoping to make a collection (which I wasn't able to do- I'm quite poor and work full time- so the pieces are really just worked under the general theme to what I need for my wardrobe at the moment) that was based on the nightmares of test pilots lost in the 1950's. This is still the theme that I work under.

              As BADDARN noted- the zippers and pockets were made to look like they were surgically implanted then grown over. There is this photograph I came across of an old rusty bike that was thrown up, presumably by some mischievous kids, into the fork of a young tree that has since been engulfed by the growing limbs. I particularly liked the mood of the image and its hue of the assertion that life prevails. That is at least what I had hoped to put into the construction of the pieces.

              CHINORLZ- Thank you! I particularly like your army blanket coat. very nice pockets! I am proud of the gloves. Though in their next iteration they will not be lined and a bit slimmer. I was trying to find a pattern that would allow for the gloves to be constructed out of a woven but would still be durable- fraying and seam bursting were an issue. The use of darts in the final pattern addressed this. it was a head banger.though. The fold at the neckline and the foreskin like fold of the glove were made to mimic skin or give the pieces a detail that alluded to growth. or rather the way 'skin tags' are like misread blueprints of proper skin growth. Im probably getting to "heady" but this concept of skin is what is at the back of my mind.

              And no, don't worry- no scar stitch. Though, if I had the resources I would have taped the seams when appropriate.

              Comment

              • Chinorlz
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 6422

                #8
                CHINORLZ- Thank you! I particularly like your army blanket coat. very nice pockets! I am proud of the gloves. Though in their next iteration they will not be lined and a bit slimmer. I was trying to find a pattern that would allow for the gloves to be constructed out of a woven but would still be durable- fraying and seam bursting were an issue. The use of darts in the final pattern addressed this. it was a head banger.though. The fold at the neckline and the foreskin like fold of the glove were made to mimic skin or give the pieces a detail that alluded to growth. or rather the way 'skin tags' are like misread blueprints of proper skin growth. Im probably getting to "heady" but this concept of skin is what is at the back of my mind.

                And no, don't worry- no scar stitch. Though, if I had the resources I would have taped the seams when appropriate.
                I love this.

                Taped seams are overrated and not as durable as one would hope especially on fuzzy fabrics (just see how often issues arise with CCP's usage or delamination on BBS pieces at crease points). You're clearly more creative than that :)

                People constantly underrate the complexity of glove construction. A whole world unto itself. You've managed to tackle it with finesse!
                Last edited by coup de grace; 01-31-2015, 06:03 PM.
                www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                Comment

                • destroymebaby
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2012
                  • 260

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Chinorlz View Post
                  I LOVE the seams on the long sleeve where a straight line crosses the front neckline and then arcs down the shoulders. Really creative with a solid execution.
                  Yes, this intrigued me. The solution is the creative hallmark of a true designer. Let me know when I can buy one of those shirts.
                  The morning is not enough.

                  Comment

                  • treasurehoard
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2009
                    • 98

                    #10
                    Well done! Those gloves are amazing.

                    Comment

                    • CAIN
                      Member
                      • Jun 2013
                      • 66

                      #11
                      WOW! this is so fresh, not derivative, so complex in the pattern and construction but wearable at the same time! I love it!

                      Any plans on presenting a formal collection for stores to sell? I really see that you can earn big bucks out of it.

                      its been long since I donĀ“t write here but this just made my day!

                      keep posting, any more views on the gloves? any chance to buy some of your pieces?

                      Comment

                      • Bleu1950
                        Member
                        • Jan 2013
                        • 72

                        #12
                        great design...fresh.


                        unlike other new designers (such as Reo Ma), who just make blatant copy of other designers work. you are really playing an important role to fashion community.

                        Comment

                        • lupus
                          Junior Member
                          • Nov 2013
                          • 11

                          #13
                          Plans for a future collection are in the works. Thank you all for the support. For those that have PM'd me regarding purchase- I will be adding a made-to-measure service to my website where one can order. Hopefully through this I can work towards a full collection.

                          I have added a subscription option for those of you who are interested.

                          Comment

                          • mgala
                            Member
                            • Sep 2014
                            • 37

                            #14
                            This is fantastic. The gloves are intriguing and i love the heavy cotton jacket. I want more!

                            Comment

                            • Prototypes
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2008
                              • 144

                              #15
                              The idea and techniques used behind the glove and some of the other pieces are truly remarkable!

                              A great way to start the year, Tyler!

                              Comment

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