I figured I would try my own hand at making a denim jacket with leather sleeves. I had set out to accomplish two things with this side-project, extra long slim sleeves (to accommodate my albatross arms) & 100% hand construction of the sleeves.
My last project (aside from some jewelry) was the leather gloves I made.
Materials needed:
Old denim jacket: I found some beat up levis denim jacket buried in my parents closet. Cut the sleeves off.
(save these sleeves, as we will use them to make the initial pattern, before altering it!)
Two packets of RIT black dye, one packet of Brown:
Velcro tape: Invaluable in securing the sleeve to the shoulder while sewing it in place. I found this rudimentary tool perfect for keeping the leather from moving all over the place.
2 Goat skin hides: Premium buttery soft goat skin. Not too thick, not too thin - bunches very nicely on the arm.
Leather sewing awl:
2 x hand leather sewing needles:
1 spool of black rayon thread:
Step one, paint it black:
2 parts black, one part brown: Ideal for a black dye bath when dyeing anything navy in color. I also used some touch up black fabric spray paint, giving the jacket that "overpainted feel"
Step 2: Rinse out the excess dye after letting it bathe for a few good hours.
Here is a before and after shot of the color..
Not as black as I had expected, but much darker than that bruised blue..
Step 3: place a goat skin hide under the severed sleeve, then trace the pattern with a stanley razor, and make adjustments as you please for sleeve length. Also keep in mind, that you will be tapering the sleeve as you sew, unless you would like a levis balloon sleeve.
Step 4: Use the velcro tape on the outside of the leather and inside of the shoulder seam. Box stitch around two times at the shoulder to re-enforce this area. (once the stitches are in place, remove the tape from both.)
Step 5: With the Velcro taped sleeve in place, pull the leather through the jacket. The idea here is to create an invisible singular seam running down the back of the arm. If you stitch the leather together inside out in this manner, this can be accomplished.
be sure to cut any excess leather outside of your seam.
step 6:Taper below the biceps. be certain to make adjustments along the way, as you could make the sleeve too slim..
Step 7: Sew all the way down the arm, until desired arm length is met. Fold off the ends with a few stitches, and repeat these steps for the next arm.
ta daaa
My last project (aside from some jewelry) was the leather gloves I made.
Materials needed:
Old denim jacket: I found some beat up levis denim jacket buried in my parents closet. Cut the sleeves off.
(save these sleeves, as we will use them to make the initial pattern, before altering it!)
Two packets of RIT black dye, one packet of Brown:
Velcro tape: Invaluable in securing the sleeve to the shoulder while sewing it in place. I found this rudimentary tool perfect for keeping the leather from moving all over the place.
2 Goat skin hides: Premium buttery soft goat skin. Not too thick, not too thin - bunches very nicely on the arm.
Leather sewing awl:
2 x hand leather sewing needles:
1 spool of black rayon thread:
Step one, paint it black:
2 parts black, one part brown: Ideal for a black dye bath when dyeing anything navy in color. I also used some touch up black fabric spray paint, giving the jacket that "overpainted feel"
Step 2: Rinse out the excess dye after letting it bathe for a few good hours.
Here is a before and after shot of the color..
Not as black as I had expected, but much darker than that bruised blue..
Step 3: place a goat skin hide under the severed sleeve, then trace the pattern with a stanley razor, and make adjustments as you please for sleeve length. Also keep in mind, that you will be tapering the sleeve as you sew, unless you would like a levis balloon sleeve.
Step 4: Use the velcro tape on the outside of the leather and inside of the shoulder seam. Box stitch around two times at the shoulder to re-enforce this area. (once the stitches are in place, remove the tape from both.)
Step 5: With the Velcro taped sleeve in place, pull the leather through the jacket. The idea here is to create an invisible singular seam running down the back of the arm. If you stitch the leather together inside out in this manner, this can be accomplished.
be sure to cut any excess leather outside of your seam.
step 6:Taper below the biceps. be certain to make adjustments along the way, as you could make the sleeve too slim..
Step 7: Sew all the way down the arm, until desired arm length is met. Fold off the ends with a few stitches, and repeat these steps for the next arm.
ta daaa
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