Work in progress: Gareth Pugh jacket

[curiouscharles]

That is some seriously impressive work for a hobbyist.

Definitely interested in seeing your next project.

It's such a visually intense piece that I'm sure you could pair it with some very simple pieces of clothing (literally black jeans, plain t-shirt, and under-stated medium weight black boots) and get away with it in more casual situations.

Pairing it with other loud and/or fashionably-intense items might be overkill.

[nostromodo]

This is just amazing!!! No more word needed ++++++

[drmmr]

Absolutely brilliant work.

Can't wait to see more.

[ImaPro]

What sewing machine did You use, i think You mentioned pFaff but cant find the post. Also how much was it , and any trouble sewing leather ?

Thanks

[Heirloom]

pfaff creative. it's an expensive mother fucker. Not that u need a fancy machine like that. most super fancy machines only have 100's of fancy decorational seams.

[marc1975]

@ImaPro:
Pfaff Creative 4.0.

I concur with Heirloom, it's quite expensive (3K Euros), and I also think that I haven't used the decorational seams ONCE (but I already have a project in mind where I will... ).

If you want to sew standard stuff, you can also use a simpler machine. For Pfaff, I recommend the cheapest machine that has IDT, which also transports the upper layer of fabric. The first sewing machine I had was comparable to the current "Select 4.0". It was purely mechanical, the stitches were great and it had no problems with thicker materials.

Where the much more expensive Creative 4.0 excels is when you want to do things like buttonholes or embroidery in general (I often stitch my signature on the things I sew).
Most machines that you can buy nowadays come with a buttonhole foot, which stitches one part of the buttonhole in one direction, and then the other part of the buttonhole in the reverse direction, moving the fabric with the normal transportation mechanism.
I learned that - depending on the fabric - this method can be pretty unreliable when e.g. the fabric isn't transported properly.
The Creative 4.0 allows you to attach an embroidery unit, where you put the fabric into a frame. Instead of transporting the fabric via the walking foot, the whole frame is moved when doing embroidery. No problems with fabric transport anymore.
A buttonhole that I did on a cashmere top with the Pfaff:



Doing perfect buttonholes on that machine is a breeze using the embroidery unit. In addition, as it is computerized, it allows a couple of things that a regular mechanical machine cannot do.
Leather of 1.2 mm thickness is no problem, but you can hear the mechanics groaning if you try 2 mm or thicker leather with it.

If you are considering buying a sewing machine, and you are just starting out, don't go for the most expensive model. Many of the finest garments are made on machines that can only do a straight stitch.

[Patroklus]

scratch my last recommendations. just get The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers, by Lori A. Knowles, ISBN 1-56367-328-2. It's exactly what you're looking for.

[ImaPro]

Thanks for the detailed response ! I'm looking for a good machine that will last at least a couple years, budget is about 1k so might be able to do some work. Also do you use/have an over lock machine?

Im taking garnet construction next semester so it should be fun, none of that jazz to rock BS !! and your projects are amazing btw, everything is made down to the smallest little detail !

[marc1975]

@ImaPro:
Check you private messages, I've sent you a review of sewing machines.

Also do you use/have an over lock machine?

Most people will wrinkle their nose as in couture sewing, you don't work with an overlock. Edges are finished via a Hong Kong finish, a flat-felled seam, a french seam, a hairline seam or a slot seam (these are the ones that I know of, there might be more).

If you know all of the techniques above, in my opinion it's not a fauxpas to have an overlock machine and use it where you see fit.
I don't always care about the finishing of the edge so much, especially when it's not really visible, e.g. in pants (= meaning that I use my overlock). I also finished the (invisible) edges of the inner lining of the Gareth Pugh jacket with my overlock.
So... yes, I do have a (c)overlock , which means it can do overlock stitches and coverlock seams.



I bought it a couple of years ago used via ebay, also a Pfaff, as I was pretty satisfied with my sewing machine. There is one thing that I really like about it: As it is computerized, it will adjust most of the settings with a single push of a button. With most other overlocks, you have to adjust multiple knobs in order to do the same thing.
The overlock function does beautiful seams, but with the coverlock function, the thread will often break, especially when you are sewing very stretchy fabrics (you can work around this problem with a thicker thread that doesn't break as easily). Maybe I need to bring it in for service to get it adjusted, but I've heard from others that it tends to break thin threads when it's in coverlock mode.

As I sometimes do need cover seams and don't want to have a lot of hassle with it, I researched a bit and found that most people find the Baby Lock series the best when it comes to overlock machines. It also has air threaded pathways, which makes rethreading it very easy. The Evolution from Babylock is the only one I've heard of that can do cover-seams and overlock seams without much problems. BUT... they are quite expensive. As I already do have the Pfaff, I haven't bought the Babylock (yet)... in one sales video, a lady from some sewing shop demonstrates how it is threaded. I've seen it live once, it really works that easy - totally different to every other overlock I've seen so far. Maybe something I am going to buy some time next year...

Jump to 6:10 to skip the sales mambo-jambo and see how she threads it.




If you have a total of 1k to spend, ask yourself whether an overlock is absolutely necessary. The first garments I put together were done with a sewing machine only. It was more work to finish the edges, but the end result looked the same. With 1k, I would rather invest in a good sewing machine than in a package (some stores offer that) of a sewing machine + an overlock. Also consider used machines or older models that are on sale. Very often, not much of the underlying technology is changed.

[Patroklus]

Regarding weak seams from an overlock, I've had a lot of success by overlocking the raw edges and then straight stitching the seam itself. Even works on knits and stretch, so long as you use a stretch thread and possibly a zig zag stitch.

I had to do this out of practicality, as my overlock is ancient. I've gotten the overlocking threads to balance properly, but I can't get it to sew a good seam for the life of me. Everything ends up looking like those CCP overlock pieces.

That said, you can make almost any garment from start to finish with just a straight stitch machine with no attachments. If you had a $1k budget I'd think you'd be better off buying a slightly cheaper machine and spending more money on fabric, patterns, and drafting tools.

[Heirloom]

the last second of that video was a mindfuck moment!!!! I've probably spent hours of my life threading those fucking overlocks... holy shit. i'm broke now.

[birdytg]

Marc, I am sorry, I am a bit late to congratulate you for your awesome work on this Gareth Jacket. You really have done a great job! Bravo!!!
I love this jacket as I do with a lot of Gareth Pugh works. I think this genius designer as a great future with his unique style!

[ACM]

Marc, this jacket is incredible. Your sewing skills are insane

[nictan]

only just noticed this thread

mind-blown

[Lypophrenia]

Just posted in the "introduce yourself"-thread that I joined the forum because of this thread here.
Really amazing work! I'm impressed. Specially since you said it was your first time working with leather.