Women's Footwear

[lowrey]

those look great, and this is coming from someone who hates creepers and Damir's in particular (at least on guys)

[rider]

thank you mike, i have lots of fun with them.

droogist and laika, i'm sure you have the 2000 version, arent these reminiscent of the same heel?

[MetroBulotDodo]

I have a few pointers to share, and I'll describe what will turn out to be the bulk of my shoe wardrobe, adding notes about their pros and cons.

First pointer: invest in shoe care. I am not only referring to the use of vibram, which I do not do to all my shoes since I keep many pairs in heavy rotation, but also to the use of proper conditioning agents and sprays to take care of your shoes along the way.

I use Saphir MDO products on my leathers, including cordovan, nappa, and patent leathers. I find that patent leathers are more durable but when and if your patent leather shoes get scratched, the damage is also more noticeable.

There is a good reference section about shoe care at Kirby Allison.
I don't consider myself the typical "advanced shoe aficionado" this article addresses (further, I thought s/he was called a "dandy") -- I wear my shoes until they're falling apart but I *do* try to do what I can so that I can avoid the kind of blunder that would be certain death for a pair of shoes. I also consider myself fortunate that I can keep hearty versions of some of my favorite styles for days when the weather is unpredictable: Margiela tabis with crepe soles that have a sort of reversed "distressed" treatment to the leather in the winter, patent Lanvin ballerina flats for summer (and winter, why not) and a couple of styles of Margiela oxfords.
Since I have a real weakness for white shoes, I'll try to buy a counterpart in black if possible in the same or similar style -- I would love to have a pair of black Avantidietro oxfords, for example.

I never learned how to walk on 4" stilettos and find it difficult even with any shape at 4", so I've slowly emptied my closet of those (including my stiletto tabis!) In place of stiletto heels, I prefer the more sturdy "pump." I like vintage Ferragamos, which are hard to destroy and cost nothing to buy, or my go-to is a pair from Hope Stockholm in bone nappa leather. I can be clumsy, so given the choice, I prefer stacked wooden heels over leather covered heels. My hide bound heels are all inevitably riddled with nicks (sp?).

Knee high boots are what I wear most: either Guidi or Ann D. I own my favorite styles in both mid-calf and knee high, and in a couple of instances, in ankle or thigh high. I love the two pairs of Ann D boots I own that are "convertible" -- they have detachable shafts to give in essence, two options in one shoe. The only issue I could possibly take with Ann D boots is that they are heavy for someone of my size.

I think I would think my shoe wardrobe would be complete if I owned Guidi clogs, Guidi oxfords with low heels, Guidi ballerina flats and Guidi thigh highs (all with the original toe box, which is the most flattering option, I think.) CCP tornados and oxfords. Oh, and Balenciaga platform boots. I know, I know -- the crosses we bear!

Other designers represented in my shoe wardrobe I would endorse for a "reasonable" balance between cost and quality: Golden Goose (riding boots, hi-tops), Dries platform pumps, Hussein Chalayan, Jil Sander. Miu Miu is a bit of a guilty pleasure for me. There is a special place for shoes from the Japanese designers -- Junya, CDG and Y's and Yohji (just as there is for their hats.) I love my APC riding boots from an earlier era as well as a pair of Volga Volga derbies that come with a cleverly designed sleeper bag. Mid-height stiletto pumps from Pierre Hardy, Louboutin and Costume National -- all that are probably a dozen years old are in that rotation, too.

Ridiculously expensive, possibly impractical, but beloved pairs? M.A+ boots (heavy), CCP Hockeyes (forever stiff).

Poorly made shoes I can't resist for their ease and look? Rick wedges.
Beautiful shoes I can't wear for their heel height but refuse to get rid of? Helmut Lang rubber band stilettos, Lanvin stilettos, old Marc Jacobs pointy flats.

Most comfortable style of all: ankle boots from Guidi (or from Guidi e Rossellini that are as comfortable as socks.)

Most impressive shoe performance? Remember the rains we had at the tail end of the night of the first SZ party? My date -- his feet were prunes after we walked home; his shoes, destroyed. I, on the other hand, didn't even get my socks wet in my knee high Guidi backzips. What's more, they didn't betray signs of water exposure after they dried!

Perhaps, this sound like a lot of shoes, but my collection was built over the course of many, many years. That said, I felt some relief upon confirming that there is at least one other poster here who has shoes in her kitchen cabinets, too.

MBD

[MetroBulotDodo]

One more piece of advice: as for shoe fit, I swear by insoles. I keep them in every possible thickness to cover the possible size variations across my shoes. I try not to buy shoes unless I've tried on that particular style from that season. Still, there are exceptions, and if you want to take a chance and buy shoes online at discounts steep enough that returns aren't accepted, or use stockists remote enough that returns are expensive or a hassle, insoles can be the difference between wearable or not.

I find that there can be a lot of variation in size from season to season even with the most consistent designers; with the artisanal designers, this practically axiomatic. Ask questions. Get insole measurements.

MBD

[ahn]

One more piece of advice: as for shoe fit, I swear by insoles. I keep them in every possible thickness to cover the possible size variations across my shoes. I try not to buy shoes unless I've tried on that particular style from that season. Still, there are exceptions, and if you want to take a chance and buy shoes online at discounts steep enough that returns aren't accepted, or use stockists remote enough that returns are expensive or a hassle, insoles can be the difference between wearable or not.

I find that there can be a lot of variation in size from season to season even with the most consistent designers; with the artisanal designers, this practically axiomatic. Ask questions. Get insole measurements.

MBD

This is really great advice. I am eyeballing a pair of Ann ankle boots I don't need in a size too big... but they're so lovely... insoles would easily solve ONE of those problems

[robertwalser]

I have a question if anyone has time (thank-you in advance). In a month I'm embarking on a 2 month walking-heavy trip and I want to take only one pair of shoes.

I've been scouring the internet for a flat pair of Ann ankle boots in my size (36-37) but it looks like I've missed the boat due to sales. Are there any comparable brands as far as sheer walkability goes? I have two pairs of her heels that are remarkably comfortable due to the wide toe box and thick soles. I've been looking at Guidi and Marsell but have no clue if they'd hold up with two months of constant use.

[Rosenrot]

I have a question if anyone has time (thank-you in advance). In a month I'm embarking on a 2 month walking-heavy trip and I want to take only one pair of shoes.

I've been scouring the internet for a flat pair of Ann ankle boots in my size (36-37) but it looks like I've missed the boat due to sales. Are there any comparable brands as far as sheer walkability goes? I have two pairs of her heels that are remarkably comfortable due to the wide toe box and thick soles. I've been looking at Guidi and Marsell but have no clue if they'd hold up with two months of constant use.

Designer shoes will not hold up as well as proper hiking/walking boots, but out of the options so far Ann's flat boots will hold up best. You can find plenty of your sizes on Ebay. I'd actually go with more utilitarian options like military boots or Doc Martens if walking on rough terrains though.

[galia]

I would NOT advise buying a new pair of Doc Martens just before going. Those boots need breaking in and they will give you mad blisters for a few weeks. So too late for DM too, I think

[Faust]

/\ Agreed. But Ann's shoes wouldn't be my first choice either unless you immediately add a rubber sole. Those leather soles are surely pretty but quite delicate.

[Patroklus]

I would NOT advise buying a new pair of Doc Martens just before going. Those boots need breaking in and they will give you mad blisters for a few weeks. So too late for DM too, I think

if she soaks the docs in water and lets em dry on her feet (wool socks) a couple of times during the month, plus wears em every day, i'd bet they'd break in
this is a trick my brother shared with me from the military. i'd only recommend it on dense leather, like military issue combat boots

alternatively, used milsurplus boots with fresh insoles might be an option, since they'd already be pretty broken in.

[Urthwhyte]

If "lots of walking" means cities and not proper hiking with all the varied terrain and potential for injury that entails, you might consider some Clarks. They'll take less time to break in than Docs would and the crepe sole is comfy as anything. I have a pair I use when the weather is particularly gross and they've help up as well as anything.

[TheDivinitus]

Do you guys only use Vibram soles for resoling? I never did it in States - what should I ask the cobbler to have it done right? Thanks.

[Faust]

Any sole will do. Many of them are Vibram by default.

[rider]

not sure if you mean for protection or complete resoling but protective half soles should cost about $40 and i do as faust mentioned, just ask for a rubber sole, they come in different thicknesses and colors but i think the standard is black about 2mm or less. hope that helps...

[yllen]

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