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runner posted an epic write-up of the new collection on that other board:
"there is a variety of elements in his work, which makes his collection a cohesive complexbecause each of the elements interacts with the others in various ways.
but there should be a starting point. it produces a chain reaction of growth and sometimes branches out like a tree diagram.
it grows to necessarily determine the next move which defines it back more clearly.
like this way apparently it is allowed to expand until the deadline.
so I guess the weight reduction from the previous collection might have led him to minimization this time, or simplification.
maybe this is the original reason for total inevitability of this collection.
to be concrete, the glued hem seen last time had led to "self-edge".
when the point of the glued hem idea was developed further, it was to be more simplified and the answer was selvedge as un ultimate method of dealing with the edges of a garment, since it is done but is natural and simple enough without nothing being done, at the expense of the quadruple fabric needed for completing a self-edge garment.
then the self-edge series was born. shirt, coat, trousers, above all the jacket is nice. it's novel.
also perforations are called selvedge. so the "open seam" developed into "chain seam" that looks like the perforated line between stamps in some way with the heavy thread and wider gap,
which makes the seamed edges of pattern pieces come to light more clearly. he has some confidence in the finish of the edge as well as the line his cut describes.
the sevedge is the other weave pattern of a piece of fabric.
it's the coexistence of two aspects on one thing.
then the minimization was directed toward both unification and disparity.
at first, the unification turned the parts that would normally be separate into one piece:
- "seamless" knit series - evolved from the last spring and woven into the literal shape of "hands-up" or "splits sleeves"
- "no seam" boots
- "no seam triangle cut" oxfords, etc
and it was connected to the abnormal patternmaking with a continuous or elongated nature that is irrespective of the efficiency engineer standpoint,
- "spiral wrap"
- "semi-armhole"
- "splits jeans/trousers", and the like
also it can be seen in the form of a fusion of neighboring items such as:
- socks and shoes ( sort of rubber-soled socks in stretch deer skin with overlock lines in the toe, achilles's tendon, and the top. the details about the rubber sole are mentioned below. though this is a famous story, the stretch leather is something he invented years ago but didn't get a patent for )
- sleeves and gloves
- tops and shorts ( a bit like archaic shirt detail )
- leggings and sockshoes
- coat and scarf, etc.
as details:
- "balaclava high neck"
- "leather wedge goodyear" - the second outsole of leather on the normal leather sole including the heel, therefore its sole is flat, which forms an outline of wedge. maybe a joke on the custom of putting a rubber on a ready-made leather sole. it's funny but I'd say wearable in comparison with other joke pieces.
- "disparate gloves" - whose left hand is constructed in order that the third and little fingers can be snuggled up to each other in one place. there is a silver ring that is made for that intent too.
- "curved pocket" - it's an oneness of inside bag-like part and outside flap, that is, a simple flat bag with the top folded which is fitted into due area of the garment, edged with the "chain seam".
it ended up as uniformity. uniformity of thickness. a garment is structurally uneven in thickness, for instance in the pocket area.
but the area was made to be even with the other area, without any value deducted, through the details like "curved pocket".
as the representative of the collection, the "self-edge chain-seam curved pocket jacket" in matte black "denim" has a flat feel of totally new kind, which helps to create a peculiar minimal atmosphere as a whole while the jacket meets his full specification.
his minimalization does not make any hollow places in his designing.
the way the selvedge and the rest of the fabric are is the state that is ambiguous
as it can be considered as a thing that is incongruous as well as two things that are unified.
naturally he let his inward monomaniac sink in that direction of disparity too.
in its vision there is perhaps something like a shoreline, a vague boundary on earth between water and land,
brought into focus gradually, it's more like a substance that either is freezing or is thawing on the contrary.
then a block of half icy meat in a drip on a hook in a slaughterhouse.
two dirrerent textures, phases of one thing.
blurred interface.
this abstract concept is concretely perceivable in the irregular surface of a piece.
- for example, cordovan that has on one side both reverse texture and obverse texture,
the boots whose suede-like texture turns smoother as it goes further down to the toe.
- the fabric with phase transition, that is, its weave pattern is gradually changed.
- object dipping - products dipped in latex. it almost has the appearance of confectionery topped with icing. but technically in this case confectionery bottomed with icing.
it is representative of not only the process of phase transition but also the unsteady existence of the boundary.
the icing effect is done with leather bags, belts, shoes, socks, jackets, etc. as
- "dip-rubbered" series.
about "dip-rubbered" footwear, part of the point could be another joke as an official rubber put on the leather sole, spiked with hanging stalactites. a wicked kindness since it's all the more difficult to walk ( not a big problem really though, you can cut the spikes ).
eventually the difference itself began to stand out and caught the inquiring eye and activated its imagination.
and a grown thought can no longer be continued without being embodied.
so it had to be incorporated into the designs that carry disparity ( rather than just asymmetry, maybe ).
- "semi-armhole" - this armhole related to the elements in the previous post as well has the structure consists of curve and straight line. also the arms are set inversely, like one shoulder facing forward while the other facing backward ( there is a simpler version of semi-armhole with shoulders set normally ).
the image would be similar to that of one's motion with the upper part of the body twisted.
and the center back seam line and/or the front opening line are askew, ( which had been called "skewed" in S/S 07 paranoid ).
- "splits jeans/trousers" - of kin to the said armhole. they too imply the image of giving further wrench around the hips. the back is cutting into the front and the front is cutting into the back. the fly set askew is extended to become the oblique 'center' seam on the left leg which parallels the side seam from the left and the back 'center' seam on the raised right leg.
the disparity of right and left as well as back and front is represented by the imbalanced borderlines of the seams.
and the splits design of this acrobatic pair creates some drop crotch effect. there are three variations: "low, middle, and high splits". the height is about the rise and "low splits" takes effect most heavily.
- "splits sleeves" - the sleeve version. the one hand-up design makes a sag under the arm ( "hands-up" available too ).these are some gymnastic interpretations of "paranoid " esque play on shapes/cuts.
- "disparate boots/derbies/oxfords" - a lopsided pair whose left last is funnily wider. not in an extremely obvious way. so might make you grin if noticed.
- "disparate leather gloves" - as mentioned in the post above, only the left glove is four-fingered. three variations: normal style (except the disparate), its open-figertip version, but each finger part is made of the mummified elastic that is used for the usual cuff part of the glove, and the fingerless version with only the opening for each finger left (the left glove's openings/fingerholes are four of course ). also again, as a relative, there is a ∞ silver ring(s), but only the ring for the little finger has a little missing part and a slight opening action ( like the antler action of a stag beetle ). and there are silver chain necklace, bracelet, and ring that consists of the links disparate in diameter and thickness.
finally the working of that mind had to reveal heterogeneousness that is inherent in a piece but is buried in silence. and set it apart.
it was cut into two ( the silver cutter knife necklace ).
- to take an example, the hems of a simple tank top. the parts on the edges of the neckline, side openings, and bottom, colored the same as the main body part.
the hem parts were differentiated from the body, with the perforations-looking gap by "chain-seam" dividing the two things. it's nice. unisex ans simple with that flat minimal feel, but interesting and just easy to wear. it is also provided with the awry center line that gradually makes the cute slight difference between right and left,
as "chain-seam disparate tank top".
- "unconstructed" footwear is another example.
a shoe has a shank that exists in secret. shank is metal. a foreign matter in a shoe.
and the shank was separated from the inside of a shoe and was made to be visible, set on the outsole.
- even the gloved sleeve from the past was disjointed again, and then it was jointed all the way anew. but this time the glove part was set in, not a seamless combination of the glove and sleeve, which delineates a boundary in the wrist and admits the two to be heterogeneous.
this might look more natural than the original model. so maybe easier to wear."
"there is a variety of elements in his work, which makes his collection a cohesive complexbecause each of the elements interacts with the others in various ways.
but there should be a starting point. it produces a chain reaction of growth and sometimes branches out like a tree diagram.
it grows to necessarily determine the next move which defines it back more clearly.
like this way apparently it is allowed to expand until the deadline.
so I guess the weight reduction from the previous collection might have led him to minimization this time, or simplification.
maybe this is the original reason for total inevitability of this collection.
to be concrete, the glued hem seen last time had led to "self-edge".
when the point of the glued hem idea was developed further, it was to be more simplified and the answer was selvedge as un ultimate method of dealing with the edges of a garment, since it is done but is natural and simple enough without nothing being done, at the expense of the quadruple fabric needed for completing a self-edge garment.
then the self-edge series was born. shirt, coat, trousers, above all the jacket is nice. it's novel.
also perforations are called selvedge. so the "open seam" developed into "chain seam" that looks like the perforated line between stamps in some way with the heavy thread and wider gap,
which makes the seamed edges of pattern pieces come to light more clearly. he has some confidence in the finish of the edge as well as the line his cut describes.
the sevedge is the other weave pattern of a piece of fabric.
it's the coexistence of two aspects on one thing.
then the minimization was directed toward both unification and disparity.
at first, the unification turned the parts that would normally be separate into one piece:
- "seamless" knit series - evolved from the last spring and woven into the literal shape of "hands-up" or "splits sleeves"
- "no seam" boots
- "no seam triangle cut" oxfords, etc
and it was connected to the abnormal patternmaking with a continuous or elongated nature that is irrespective of the efficiency engineer standpoint,
- "spiral wrap"
- "semi-armhole"
- "splits jeans/trousers", and the like
also it can be seen in the form of a fusion of neighboring items such as:
- socks and shoes ( sort of rubber-soled socks in stretch deer skin with overlock lines in the toe, achilles's tendon, and the top. the details about the rubber sole are mentioned below. though this is a famous story, the stretch leather is something he invented years ago but didn't get a patent for )
- sleeves and gloves
- tops and shorts ( a bit like archaic shirt detail )
- leggings and sockshoes
- coat and scarf, etc.
as details:
- "balaclava high neck"
- "leather wedge goodyear" - the second outsole of leather on the normal leather sole including the heel, therefore its sole is flat, which forms an outline of wedge. maybe a joke on the custom of putting a rubber on a ready-made leather sole. it's funny but I'd say wearable in comparison with other joke pieces.
- "disparate gloves" - whose left hand is constructed in order that the third and little fingers can be snuggled up to each other in one place. there is a silver ring that is made for that intent too.
- "curved pocket" - it's an oneness of inside bag-like part and outside flap, that is, a simple flat bag with the top folded which is fitted into due area of the garment, edged with the "chain seam".
it ended up as uniformity. uniformity of thickness. a garment is structurally uneven in thickness, for instance in the pocket area.
but the area was made to be even with the other area, without any value deducted, through the details like "curved pocket".
as the representative of the collection, the "self-edge chain-seam curved pocket jacket" in matte black "denim" has a flat feel of totally new kind, which helps to create a peculiar minimal atmosphere as a whole while the jacket meets his full specification.
his minimalization does not make any hollow places in his designing.
the way the selvedge and the rest of the fabric are is the state that is ambiguous
as it can be considered as a thing that is incongruous as well as two things that are unified.
naturally he let his inward monomaniac sink in that direction of disparity too.
in its vision there is perhaps something like a shoreline, a vague boundary on earth between water and land,
brought into focus gradually, it's more like a substance that either is freezing or is thawing on the contrary.
then a block of half icy meat in a drip on a hook in a slaughterhouse.
two dirrerent textures, phases of one thing.
blurred interface.
this abstract concept is concretely perceivable in the irregular surface of a piece.
- for example, cordovan that has on one side both reverse texture and obverse texture,
the boots whose suede-like texture turns smoother as it goes further down to the toe.
- the fabric with phase transition, that is, its weave pattern is gradually changed.
- object dipping - products dipped in latex. it almost has the appearance of confectionery topped with icing. but technically in this case confectionery bottomed with icing.
it is representative of not only the process of phase transition but also the unsteady existence of the boundary.
the icing effect is done with leather bags, belts, shoes, socks, jackets, etc. as
- "dip-rubbered" series.
about "dip-rubbered" footwear, part of the point could be another joke as an official rubber put on the leather sole, spiked with hanging stalactites. a wicked kindness since it's all the more difficult to walk ( not a big problem really though, you can cut the spikes ).
eventually the difference itself began to stand out and caught the inquiring eye and activated its imagination.
and a grown thought can no longer be continued without being embodied.
so it had to be incorporated into the designs that carry disparity ( rather than just asymmetry, maybe ).
- "semi-armhole" - this armhole related to the elements in the previous post as well has the structure consists of curve and straight line. also the arms are set inversely, like one shoulder facing forward while the other facing backward ( there is a simpler version of semi-armhole with shoulders set normally ).
the image would be similar to that of one's motion with the upper part of the body twisted.
and the center back seam line and/or the front opening line are askew, ( which had been called "skewed" in S/S 07 paranoid ).
- "splits jeans/trousers" - of kin to the said armhole. they too imply the image of giving further wrench around the hips. the back is cutting into the front and the front is cutting into the back. the fly set askew is extended to become the oblique 'center' seam on the left leg which parallels the side seam from the left and the back 'center' seam on the raised right leg.
the disparity of right and left as well as back and front is represented by the imbalanced borderlines of the seams.
and the splits design of this acrobatic pair creates some drop crotch effect. there are three variations: "low, middle, and high splits". the height is about the rise and "low splits" takes effect most heavily.
- "splits sleeves" - the sleeve version. the one hand-up design makes a sag under the arm ( "hands-up" available too ).these are some gymnastic interpretations of "paranoid " esque play on shapes/cuts.
- "disparate boots/derbies/oxfords" - a lopsided pair whose left last is funnily wider. not in an extremely obvious way. so might make you grin if noticed.
- "disparate leather gloves" - as mentioned in the post above, only the left glove is four-fingered. three variations: normal style (except the disparate), its open-figertip version, but each finger part is made of the mummified elastic that is used for the usual cuff part of the glove, and the fingerless version with only the opening for each finger left (the left glove's openings/fingerholes are four of course ). also again, as a relative, there is a ∞ silver ring(s), but only the ring for the little finger has a little missing part and a slight opening action ( like the antler action of a stag beetle ). and there are silver chain necklace, bracelet, and ring that consists of the links disparate in diameter and thickness.
finally the working of that mind had to reveal heterogeneousness that is inherent in a piece but is buried in silence. and set it apart.
it was cut into two ( the silver cutter knife necklace ).
- to take an example, the hems of a simple tank top. the parts on the edges of the neckline, side openings, and bottom, colored the same as the main body part.
the hem parts were differentiated from the body, with the perforations-looking gap by "chain-seam" dividing the two things. it's nice. unisex ans simple with that flat minimal feel, but interesting and just easy to wear. it is also provided with the awry center line that gradually makes the cute slight difference between right and left,
as "chain-seam disparate tank top".
- "unconstructed" footwear is another example.
a shoe has a shank that exists in secret. shank is metal. a foreign matter in a shoe.
and the shank was separated from the inside of a shoe and was made to be visible, set on the outsole.
- even the gloved sleeve from the past was disjointed again, and then it was jointed all the way anew. but this time the glove part was set in, not a seamless combination of the glove and sleeve, which delineates a boundary in the wrist and admits the two to be heterogeneous.
this might look more natural than the original model. so maybe easier to wear."
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