Carol Christian Poell

[Faust]

There is no male 42. You are comparing different sizing systems (US 42 = IT 52).

[BSR]

not entirely off. fe-male uses same sizing system as ccp's male offerings (whats on the tag).. fe-male cuts, aside from changes in the pattern besides simple grading, are slimmer in the same marked size. (a fe-male pattern in 44 will run a bit smaller than its male equivalent in same size..) and there is a male 42 if and when you're custom ordering. don't think ccp ever marked us sizing on things..

true. but on top of that the cuts are really different: for instance, waist on the fe-male blazers is higher. as always, (@diorowen) don't buy this if you cannot try it on. I tried on the 44 in the fe-male dead end blazer, i could close it and move normally, but the silhouette was rather disturbing. looked like cross-dressing.

on a more general note, it's sad because i haven't seen any good fit pic of 2010 female on the web actually. but i can testify it looks insane IRL, of course on the proper body types. also, fe-male is not only mere male styles transpositions. there are unique pieces, like the dress entirely made in the same aluminum/leather than the garbage boots from male or another dress in a juicy bison skin that looks like a body bag or a garment bag (depending of your mood). i'm surprised atelier did not buy it... maybe it will be part of a later arrival.

[diorowen]

Thx guys. Eastern market hasnt got their fe-male stuff in. So i'm really curious :(.
And yea, i was thinking if i can get slimmer cut (specially in arms from what i can see from darklands pics) with fe-male collection. But i scared the length of the jacket and the hem might just be different. Given that womens stuff tend to flare at the hem etc.
Ha,
But thanks guys, :)

[AKA*NYC]

there was also a beautiful gray wool coat out of a dense yet unusually soft - at least for poell - fabric with some metallic fiber content. my favorite in the collection was the half sleeve blazer. it will be a glorious day for sz if/when someone graces the waywt thread decked out in this.

[BSR]

cheers, that actually does reflect the sizing a bit more closely. and to underscore what bsr said, the pieces are not directly-graded items of menswear, they are significantly re-worked.

yep, i think to understand properly the relationship between male and female collections one has to keep in mind the CCP garments' property of disturbing human anatomy. Poell's womenswear, exactly as menswear, recreate a different body, more vertical, thinner, with longer segments etc., than the usual human silhouette. As male and female bodies obviously differ, the techniques he uses to reshape and go beyond the human proportions are different. Especially, in fe-male collection, the female body's curves are cancelled. Hence the feeling that male and female collections are somehow "the same", or that one is the mere transposition of the other. Obviously the end results look alike, but the pathways guiding to the unique silhouette that is his trademark are as different as the raw material he starts from (i.e. the male and female bodies).

[Unexist]

Also in Female CCP everything will be on opposite side )
Clasp, zippers etc.

[mattizzle]

my favorite in the collection was the half sleeve blazer. it will be a glorious day for sz if/when someone graces the waywt thread decked out in this.

Are you talking about these one here?

http://shopnumber4.com/men/brands/carol-christian-poell/carol-christian-poell-prosthetic-metal-elbow-jacket.html

[SHYE_POSER]

Also in Female CCP everything will be on opposite side )
Clasp, zippers etc.

Is that just with female CCP or with all brands that do men's an womenswear?

[Unexist]

In CCP 100% ,not sure about other brands but many of them do womens on opposite side from mens, so you can easily see that its made for women not for men )))

[Faust]

Is that just with female CCP or with all brands that do men's an womenswear?

What did they teach you at St. Martins? Traditionally, yes, the closures for men's and women's are on the opposite sides. Not everyone follows it though.

[lowrey]

In CCP 100% ,not sure about other brands but many of them do womens on opposite side from mens, so you can easily see that its made for women not for men )))

I heard he also uses less zipper teeth and stiches for smaller sizes. possibly also less fabric. THIS IS A SECRET THOUGH.

[zamb]

this is for the most part a general rule but i dont think most designers follow it nowadays

Gaultier for one made it a point early in his career to make the womenswear close left over right like menswear.
I dont think at this point with so much unisex clothing and women wearing mens clothing its that important

however cutting for women is a completely different thing

generally speaking women have a shorter torso than men, narrower shoulders prefer tops that have greater definition in terms of bust contours and such. the waist to hip ratio in women is very different too
its much more difficult to cut for women than men.........

[SHYE_POSER]

What did they teach you at St. Martins? Traditionally, yes, the closures for men's and women's are on the opposite sides. Not everyone follows it though.

My post was written with tongue firmly in cheek! I didn't go st Martins, because im not really a club kid who designs clown costumes.

[snafu]

M how dare you!

I actually own male pieces in a 42.

[Faust]

My post was written with tongue firmly in cheek! I didn't go st Martins, because im not really a club kid who designs clown costumes.