m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[AKA*NYC]

any word about fw11? lowrey?

[cjbreed]

^^what he said

[lowrey]

much of the same old, some strong pieces, some new such as a long, hooded black cloak/coat with an attached scarf, a more dramatic piece than what he usually does I think. it was extremely comfortable, made of a heavy but soft fabric. also a really nice basic blazer like this one but made of slightly lighter jersey-like fabric. this piece was remade but with a better cut, last season the 48 was roomy in the body for me but I couldn't get my arms into the sleeves, this time it had nicer proportions for me at least. a hoody cut similarly to this was made of heavy knit and also something similar in the form of a hooded coat.

footwear reminiscent of previous seasons, derbies, boots and all that. same for belts, bags, wallets.

I honestly don't remember a lot more as he puts out a pretty massive collection each season with a lot of basic items, and once you've looked through it you forget where you began. plus I was both sick and running around in a hurry. but overall, I'd say its a strong-ish collection, I liked it more than last season which was a bit all over the place for me

[kuugaia]

Thanks for the review lowrey.

I'm interested to see what type of leather he's opting to use for this FW considering the previous one saw a lot of bison. Blue bison at that. A MA+ hooded cloak with an attached scarf definitely sounds interesting to say the least..

[cjbreed]

...but overall, I'd say its a strong-ish collection, I liked it more than last season which was a bit all over the place for me

last season meaning last showroom? SS11? or last season FW10?

i've had my worries about SS11 but we'll see. glad to hear that you give it at least a lukewarm approval. that means i'll probably love it haha. there have been a couple fit issues as of late with armholes and sleeve areas being too tight meaning one has to size up and risk a looser body. i hope thats been resolved somewhat.

did u gain any perspective on the pricing issue we've been hearing about?

[lowrey]

SS11. but as the collections are fairly big, so some stores were able to make pretty decent buys out of it

sorry no idea about pricing

[Peasant]

FW11

More of the same, but some solid pieces. SS11 was a total let down.

[BSR]

from this blog

[copacetic]

Nice to see that his sleeves, unlike ours, are properly cut.

I was thinking about his unique style of cutting jackets and coats the other day...the long arms and short body. I don't think I've heard a good explanation yet as to why. The long arms especially get in the way of operating normally (i.e. eating without getting that shit all over your arms) and make you look foolish, like you're a teenager in your dad's clothes.

I think it's especially relevant because season to season it seems to get more pronounced.

I have some cockamamie ideas, but I need someone else to pick up this topic with me before diving into a visual analysis.

[thejjbb]

I always thought the short cut of the body on the shirts/jackets was there in order to reveal the unique details of the belts and pants that he makes. It's hard to have interesting details for pants that aren't in the top block, and most of his unique pants designs occur in that area.

[Faust]

sorry, still creates a pretty silly silhouette.

[copacetic]

You could make the jackets three or four or even five inches shorter and still be able to see all of the pant and belt detailing.

Let me throw out an idea that's been rattling around in my head for a while: I don't think anyone's brought up the historical Italian and specifically Catholic influence in his work. Small elements in his garments make me think of bygone eras in Italy. The throne collars, vertical coats that look like adaptations of the robes Cardinals wear, the anachronistic silhouette and lacing in the footwear, etc. The silhouette that specifically comes to mind is the tight upper body, long sleeves, and A-line bottom half in his coats. It's a little Tattooine, yes, but also sort of Catholic.

Hence the long sleeves? Like a Cardinal, or even a Franciscan monk, etc.? Last time I checked though, there isn't any midriff being flaunted at the Vatican, so I still can't explain the shortness of the aviators.

[Peasant]

Good analogy. I always thought that the short torsos were based on his obvious anatomical tendencies. They're cut where you bend / twist. Does not explain the sleeves though. They just looks good, I suppose.

[Faust]

Copacetic makes M.A.+ the new Poell!

[unwashed]

Maybe Italian people in general are short and therefore the clothes fit italians best he makes clothes for his own bodytype maybe.