Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

[bestial]

When I've done silk screening myself, I've always iron the print after, to fixate it better. I have never experienced bleeds or anything with this method.

The silk screen tee I got from Lucas ss07 (or 08) is reacting very strong to water, the black bleeds out and color the white and smudges the print. Why is this? Could it be helped with ironing, or is it the type of dye or the type of material in the knit, it's 100% cotton for what I know.

[lowrey]

is the black part silk screened, or is that the base colour?

[bestial]

that's the silk screened part.



it's interesting that I've never experienced color bleed from prints before, therefore it must be something that's different with Lucas process, or just that particular piece.

I know we talked about this earlier, and you said that the new one didn't bleed?

[lowrey]

yea I have a nearly identical tee from SS10, one side looks similar to yours (white) and the other is partly grey, partly black. I've hand washed it 2-3 times and there was very minor bleeding. don't know what could be causing it, different dye maybe?

[DHC]

I believe the reason for Luca making point of this is because traditional methods are used. Though he is not a luddite resistant to the advancements of technology and its inevitable impact on industry. He certainly is an advocate for the preservation of old world techniques, as he sees his own craft dwindling to extinction. He makes the personal choice to support
fellow artisans, of respective crafts, as he has a personal affinity for work with its own identity. Obviously there is an increase of cost to incorporate these talents, but it is this work that provides an energy that, amongst other characteristics of his work, helps define the final piece as an article as opposed to a mere product.

Yes, the reversibility of his work is impressive. Not just in the silk
screening, but in the construction. For example, he incorporates what I would describe as a kind of updated take on a decrease knit. The right side shows a subtle beauty in a kind of yarn-over knit, while the contrasting seam work on the reverse allows the pattern to take a position of prevalence.

[MoFiya]

Got this in the mail today. It is a dual-layered merino wool longsleeve. Somehow, the fabric really amazes me. I've never handled any really good cashmere but the softness of this wool is what I expect it to be. It is super light and although slim-fitting, one actually feels like wearing nothing at all Can someone provide some background info on the "140s yarn" used to knit this piece?

Also, one side hasn't been knitted until the end as can be seen on the Atelier fit pic (close-up, please see the collar). The yarns look really loose there and my first reaction was contacting the seller because I thought it was a defect (sorry for that T). Does anybody happen to have the same LS and experience regarding the further opening of the yarn?

Btw - I am in love with the knit

[croatoan]

140s would refer to the fineness of the wool.

[kuugaia]

^^^ Thanks for the insight DHC. Always really appreciate the content in your posts, and if time allows you to, please explain more about the construction processes. I've gone through this thread but I am sad to see that there's not much discussion on the actual knit work and processes of Luca. Can anybody clarify if the knits are actually hand-made? Or is it just a few steps of the process that is hand done.

Mofiya: I asked myself the same question before. All you need to know about that superfine 140s wool is here. Good read as it dispels misconceptions of a higher number being of higher quality.

[Faust]

140s would refer to the fineness of the wool.

and 140 is very fine.

[zamb]

and 140 is very fine.

actually the "S" stands for "Superfine" which is wool developed by special breeding/ rearing of the sheep.........

[nictan]

I second kuugaia's comments. very interested in getting an LUC cotton knit for myself, and would very much like to know more about the process that went into making them. i like to know about the garments before i buy them, so i know how each and every detail on the garment is produced.

P.S. and if anyone has that black-white screen-print tee bestial posted in a 44, hit me up

[MoFiya]

actually the "S" stands for "Superfine" which is wool developed by special breeding/ rearing of the sheep.........

Wouldn't that double the information written on the tag? It says "superfine 140s yarn".
Thanks kuugaia for the article. So it is most likely, that the origin of my LS goes back to Australie / NZ, no?

The last paragraph is kinda funny though. 100 to 120 --> everday wear. 150 and upwards --> treat it like caviar. Goddamn, I got 140 what to do now?

[magic]

i just received my 140s yard wool long sleeve tee, surprised of the light weight and feel almost like cotton knit. will post pics tonight.

[MoFiya]

^ Is it the same as mine?

[Faust]

careful with those tops. at 150 and up, it's so superfine that it's very delicate and can be easily damaged.