its the most exp leather in the world as well...
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A1923 / Adiciannoveventitre (Augusta)
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Originally posted by new_dawn_fadesAllow me to explain zam,
Independent designers simply cannot afford what it takes to make quality sole because:
It costs a heckload to make a custom sole mold - Unless you plan to manfacture in the thousands or more- its not worthwhile.
This is one of the reasons why Common,dior,lanvi,margiela etc have similar sole pattern/materials.- the shape is slightly different but they are all made at the same factory.- They use a high density rubber and the sole lasts quite long- but not quite as long as the patented waffle gum rubber that vans uses. That is some tough stuff.
- I am sure those who skateboard here can attest to this.
Rick owens' crepe sole is matter of choice. Crepe is comfortable- and lasts quite long- its the way the crepe is encased inside the rubber welt that leads to rick kicks blowing out.
Ann uses a very soft rubber- that shit just isnt designed to last.
I agree that Rick's sneakers are a tragedy of engineering in terms of construction. Those staples are a solution that a high school student might come up with.
Vans uses a foxing (the rubber around the sole that 'traps' it) but it's fused on there with crazy epoxy (the smell when you open a new box of Vans) but that's all it needs. No staples necessary.
Putting them on the heel (where much of the wear occurs) is like designing an airplane with wings made out of concrete. It's just a fatal flaw; no two ways about it.
Formula is likely the issue with Rick's crepe sole. Just like other rubbers and plastics, there are proprietary formulas and generic formulas. Clark's has a good formula of the same material that wears much better even though it's a similar type of rubber.
Soles are a fairly easy matter to deal with in terms of a sneaker from China/Korea. You basically design a sole and pay for a mold. It's not super cheap but it's definitely not price prohibitive for high-end design companies, even at the numbers they do. EVERY shoe order is large because you usually have to do at least 14 sizes (for adult shoes with half sizes).
Obviously this is just in terms of sneakers as opposed to a nice shoe with a well designed sole made of good material.
I'm mostly just wailing on efforts from high-end designers to make sneakers. The results are generally pathetic. As you mentioned, you can get a pair of Vans for $40 that will last you super long or spend upwards of a grand and get something made by Ann or Rick where the sole literally disintegrates within a few weeks.
I'm all for paying for an aesthetic and design vision but for the margin Rick makes on those shoes, he could make gum sole molds all day long for the soles of his shoes, use strong epoxy and the quality of those things would increase dramatically.
The problem with shoes is that you can have an amazing designer that might design a shoe that looks cool but great shoe designers make shoes that look cool and last a long time because technically, durability is an issue you consider as a designer if you're designing something that gets wear/tear.
I mean, why would Rick use this beautiful, amazing quality leather for the upper and then basically mount them on the equivalency of a rubber toilet bowl? It makes no sense.
OK, as stated earlier...back to Augusta. I have some experience in shoe design/production so it's a topic that interests me too much sometimes.Originally posted by mizzarSorry for being kind of a dick to you.
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^ Thanks for laying it down again beardown. Was really informative and good to know! Cheers.
Back onto Augusta. Though I am a general sneaker fan and DO like the Augusta sneaker...I feel it's some what out of place with their aesthetic? This goes with their boxing boot as well.
It's just so cutesy?
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Originally posted by meito^ wow, great boots.
where did you get the ones? Please..
They are from Archive's photobucket page: http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/a...0FW%202010-11/Last edited by eckblk; 04-18-2010, 12:48 AM.
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