Thom Browne

[Magician]

inb4 Theory buyout.

[Faust]

I think Target should buy him. Ok,nasty comments aside, it is a just a little sad. I'd rather see Dolce and Gabanna fail. Although, their existence is a failure in itself.

[zamb]

I saw this and wanted to post the article this morning......... but my computer wouldnt let me.
I was telling a friend of mine that i really dont want him to fail, because i need someone to be angry at

Anyways, this speaks to a really serious question..................is the business model used by fashion companies outmoded in todays economic climate.....................
what viable alternatives eist in terms of business structure, that will enable a design company to remain small and profitable.

I have been thinking about these two things alot lately

[Chinorlz]

my feeling is, in the current economic situation, keeping your design company small is a smart way to remain profitable. Once you expand production/distribution/overhead, suddenly it all gets more complex and you're put in a situation where you can actually MEET the demand... and who wants to do that ? Then no one wants your stuff :P

The latter part was written only half jokingly. Like others have said, small niche businesses and industries will survive through this and may not see too much of a business change/drop. Once you start relying on volume... things get dicey.

[jak1]

the shoe store is the deal killer

As the economy shrinks demand for his super-tight suits, Thom Browne has a slippery grip not only on his business -- but also his name.

As reported exclusively in The Post yesterday, the quirky fashion designer is in talks to possibly sell a majority stake in exchange for cash to fund operations and pay off creditors.

But Browne has struggled to find a financial partner for more than a year, and a key reason is that he's embroiled in a longstanding dispute over his trademark, sources said.

Thom Brown -- a shoe store in Boston's Newbury Street shopping district -- claims to have used the trademark since 1984, and as of last year was demanding as much as $8 million to settle the matter, sources said.

The Boston shoe store has recently become convinced of Thom Browne's dire finances, and has "basically cooled it" for now, according to one source. But that doesn't mean the problem won't crop up again if Thom Browne recovers his financial footing, sources added.

According to trademark filings, Thom Browne abandoned a bid to trademark his name in February 2007 after making an initial application in April 2004.

Thom Browne had argued unsuccessfully that his line wouldn't be confused with shoes, and that the "e" at the end of his name made a difference.

[cabl3]

I think Target should buy him. Ok,nasty comments aside, it is a just a little sad. I'd rather see Dolce and Gabanna fail. Although, their existence is a failure in itself.

They sell mens suits that dont fit half bad as most suits within that price range do. Perfect if you're on a low budget and have a good tailor...yes Thom Browne would only make this better.

visual aesthetics and shrunken suits aside, one of the greatest things about Thom Browne is the way he approaches his business.

I have a great sense of appreciation for the attention to detail that he puts into making and designing his suits. Well more than anything, the attention to detail that his "partner" puts into it (I forgot his name but he's an oldschool suit maker, one of the last of his kind...not really a partner per se, but he's pretty much the one that turns TB's vision into reality)

I also really think that his influences in the fashion realm are really much greater than you might think. Basically I think he went to the extreme that no one was willing to go to...at least as far as contemporary fashion is concerned. And I say that mainly because of all subversive/avant garde designers, I find that Thom Browne is much more "user friendly" (partially due to the fact that his designs are basically shrunken versions of everyday staples).

More than anything..I hate the very existence big boxy suits, if anything, those fools should go under...not Thom. (even then a looser suit can be done tastefully, eg Junya, but for the most part, only "real desigers" and the French can get it right)

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

I also really think that his influences in the fashion realm are really much greater than you might think. Basically I think he went to the extreme that no one was willing to go to...at least as far as contemporary fashion is concerned. And I say that mainly because of all subversive/avant garde designers, I find that Thom Browne is much more "user friendly" (partially due to the fact that his designs are basically shrunken versions of everyday staples).

I never imagined shrinking clothing would make you a part of
the avant garde and even subversive.

Please elaborate? Others can join in to!

When that said, if this is going to be a trend then it's a sad one,
but I wont bat a lash if this man disappears.

[Fuuma]

I never imagined shrinking clothing would make you a part of
the avant garde and even subversive.

Please elaborate? Others can join in to!

When that said, if this is going to be a trend then it's a sad one,
but I wont bat a lash if this man disappears.

Didn't we have this conversation many times over. Add new elements or stop beating a dead horse.

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

Didn't we have this conversation many times over. Add new elements or stop beating a dead horse.

Since these statements keeps poppping up,
I'll ask the same question over and over again.
I asked for elaboration, not ultimatums.
If you won't elaborate there are plenty of other topics
around. You definitely don't have to.

[Fuuma]

Since these statements keeps poppping up,
I'll ask the same question over and over again.
I asked for elaboration, not ultimatums.
If you won't elaborate there are plenty of other topics
around. You definitely don't have to.

As Derrida said "elaborate on this" is quite vague and a call for ready-made discourse. I don't disagree. Present a cogent point and I'll happily answer you.

[deleuze]

I would never wear any Thom Browne myself but I do appreciate his runway shows which I think are the best manifestation of his vision. He seems like a fun guy who really enjoys what he does. His devotion to a particular lifestyle reflected both in his clothing and everyday life is quite similar to Rick Owens asceticism. Avante-garde is sort of a silly term but I do see his clothing as subversive much the same way Vivienne Westwood's used to be although Thom has a more playful sense of humor and his thinking doesn't have the same immediacy as Vivien's. It's a little unfair to reduce his vision to a gimmick like shrunken suits as they are more of an actualization or effect of a conceptual approach than something that stands alone in itself. His attention to detail and the construction of the garments also reinforce the fact that he does take his product seriously; he's not just a stylist interested in creating a new trend. Part of the problem is New York's desperate hunger for an American designer to put the U.S. back on the map. It is sort of disgusting hearing every student at Parsons or FIT uncritically bestow upon Thom Browne unnecessary superlatives; it's become sort of a secret handshake. So it doesn't surprise me that it is the NY members of this forum that are responsible for a lot of the backlash. I think things would be different if he was working out of a differenct city/country; Junya's project is similar and yet he doesn't leave the same rancid taste in people's mouths. I want to see him stick around and maybe this will force him to scale back a bit as it's now obvious that no matter how ubiquitous his name has become, sales of the "signature look" haven't been keeping pace. Maybe this will help him to further develop and refine his design. His last show was a good start.

[cabl3]

I never imagined shrinking clothing would make you a part of
the avant garde and even subversive.

Please elaborate? Others can join in to!

When that said, if this is going to be a trend then it's a sad one,
but I wont bat a lash if this man disappears.

I by no means implied that shrunken clothing = avant garde. Nor did I mean to imply that *his (edit) aesthetic as solely based on this (latter sentence in partial response to deleuze). Really, anything that is out of the "norm" or the expected can be seen as avant garde..but lets not open up that can of worms, or beat a dead horse for that matter...neither of the two are productive...(unless if they were done simultaneously? dead horse beating and preemptive ejaculation of maggots into carcass?)

seriously though, Thom Browne isnt the only dude making undersized clothing...he just convinces americans that its better than swimming in 155434 yds of fabric.

[diamonds]

are cans of worms actually sealed? is that good for the worms?

[Vahiren]

as a completely unrelated note, if you happen to have a equinox membership....check out the one in the west village sometime. thom browne is always working out there in some crazy get up.

Seeing thom browne on the treadmill in crazy highwaisted jogging shorts with cashmere tennis sweaters and knee high socks is too priceless not to witness.

[BeauIXI]

I by no means implied that shrunken clothing = avant garde. Nor did I mean to imply that *his (edit) aesthetic as solely based on this (latter sentence in partial response to deleuze). Really, anything that is out of the "norm" or the expected can be seen as avant garde..but lets not open up that can of worms, or beat a dead horse for that matter...neither of the two are productive...(unless if they were done simultaneously? dead horse beating and preemptive ejaculation of maggots into carcass?

seriously though, Thom Browne isnt the only dude making undersized clothing...he just convinces americans that its better than swimming in 155434 yds of fabric.

First off, Jesus Christ, thank you for that image.

Secondly, couldn't any designer call himself avant garde and just change his sizing around? I was never very interested in Thom Browne, as I have no need for suits or even formal wear, and I'm not interested in men's staples. What's with the undersized suit?


Is this a good suit? Maybe my taste is off, but this doesn't seem too appealing to me.

EDIT: Ok, read the thread. My taste isn't off. Will be interesting to see how he handles himself during the crisis.. What, with people typically demanding solid clothing at fair prices. Maybe he will end up in a mall.