Marvie Lab

[Casius]

I never saw what the problem was with the off shoots; I mean yea, there's a quite a few of them but one can only come to the conclusion that Altieri surrounded himself with like-minded individuals and it only makes sense for them to continue to work even when Cdiem/Linea/etc. is done.

[DHC]

The SML idea and square cut concepts... are those derived from the top, middle, bottom concept and square cut pieces of Linea or were those theories and methods her contributions to Linea?

Those were her contributions to Linea, but its important to note that they were contributions derived from abstract notions conceived by Altieri.

[DHC]

...im really starting to get over the whole conceptual label with ties to carpe bullshit. No wonder the man himself has given up.

I think the one thing that is easily overlooked when it comes to these "offshoots" is that these were all designer's that just happened to work under Altieri. He formed a team of amazing talents and filtered their contributions to feature their strengths. Altieri is a perfectionist, so he really worked it into something special. What he did with Continues makes my heart sing to this day. I completely understand your point, but I believe its imperative to realize and acquaint oneself with the individual designer's passions and point of view if this preconception is to be shattered. I don't consider LUC or M.A+ an offshoot of Carpe Diem any more than I consider Damir Doma an offshoot of Raf Simons.
And he hasn't given up. He's just got a lot of personal projects that need tending to. He'll be back.

[DHC]

Coating project completed. Interchangeable construction, with layers suitable for various times of the year. It comes in three lengths and three volumes, made of three independent coating in three different interchangeable materials (cotton, wool, waterproof fabric). Taking her signature, tripartite concept further. Here are a couple of pics of the men's coating in random "styling". She had fun with the shoot, hope you enjoy them too.

[pipcleo]

.... Interchangeable construction, with layers suitable for various times of the year. It comes in three lengths and three volumes, made of three independent coating in three different interchangeable materials (cotton, wool, waterproof fabric).

so just trying to fathom this , you buy a coat which is in fact three coats , one wool , one cotton and one waterproof each of different length ?
typically i found the concept of detachable linings quite defunct but perhaps this works

regretfully some tailors' tokenism here , as with grandma+ coats with a single closure.

utterly useless for the climes designed

[lowrey]

couple of additional images:





and her interview, of course, is here

[Brother Stasi]

we should probably wait on some more recent work from this particular person to show up places before debating its merits.

I know this quote is quite old (and I'm probably misreading the context), but I feel it needs commenting on none the less.

I do think it's too early to judge on the overall value of her as a designer, but the individual garments on the other hand are open to critique the moment they are first shown. Should a garment get anymore merit simply because of the overall body of a persons work? If a "great" designer releases a crap piece is that piece any better than a crap designer who releases a similar but slightly less crappy crap piece at the same time? Isn't a beautiful garment still a beautiful garment no matter who releases it? A crap concept is still a crap concept imo (not referring to this per say... More Raf getting special treatment based on passed collections) and beauty is still beauty.

I don't think anyone here was judging her value per say.... more so the value of these collections or pieces and the redundancy in them. One problem with new designers who were protegees of other noted designers is one will nearly always see the work of the noted designer reflected in their work. This is no different (not saying that's bad). With these pieces it feels like she's picking up where she last left off without reevaluating what she stands for.

Do I think she has anything to offer? Quite likely, I'm not ruling her out. Do these individual pieces impress me? No, not really. The people putting on and taking off each others clothing reminds me of a dozen video installation/modern art pieces that are now old and beyond dated. To make it worse some of the clothing pieces looked odd and unflattering on all three girls.

Do the more recent coat pieces entice me? They still remind me of student work (and that's coming from a student...) Perhaps they are just too under constructed for my taste. I'll be honest; It always bothers me when classic tailoring is cited as the method of construction when garments look far from classically tailored. I can see the comfort influence. I understand the added marketability of sustainable clothing. I understand how much more affordable it is for a young designer to do seasonless collections...I also understand the value of a seasonless collection enabling you to properly flush out ideas before releasing them. My main problem is that none of these concepts really feel entirely flushed out or executed well beyond the initial concept point.

These are older younger pieces and I assume she is also quite young, so there is obliviously a lot of room for growth. These are by no means bad or worthless pieces... they just feel unfinished and not entirely developed. I happily await more recent looks to see in what direction she takes herself.

[Chinorlz]

you've kind of expounded on my original post from seeing the collection's images. my comment you've written in response to had to do with the earlier efforts being shown, with the creator having produced more recent and 'complete' iterations on the same concept, i would imagine, by their own standards. I've actually seen a couple of pieces in person now and echo your sentiment in most of what you've said, perhaps with the exception of a master's work resonating in their student - cdiem always seemed like a collective rather than a clear & obvious ladder of masters and students. it is difficult to say which came first, and where contributions overlap.

that was my only bone to pick with what you've written, the rest of it was pretty much my original sentiment. especially when it came to installation pieces, sustainable resources, etc.. i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' and if the answer comes with hesitation, no amount of conceptual mumbo jumbo, installations & paens to eco-conscious lot will sufficiently compensate.

that said, i was really excited to see this creator's work in person, and look forward to seeing more of it.

I try to live by these words

Sigged.

[DHC]

i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck'

Answer is yes and it comes without hesitation. Man, I can't stop looking at this image without falling deeper in love.

[een]

smitten as well, D.

[DHC]

Perugia based designer Mariavittoria Sargentini has setup a very special online shop. You can purchase her creations directly and at cost!!!! Don't miss out on the opportunity to acquire some beautiful articles at unbelievable prices! This is a temporary engagement, so it is an opportunity not to be missed and I encourage you all to take advantage of this offer before it passes.

Visit the shop here or contact the Marvielab team at info@marvielab.com

[underdog]

I do like some of the cuts quite a bit. Can anyone attest to their material and production quality? Would also be curious if anyone could shed some light on their sizing and general fit.

[Avantster]

The S+M+L notation is an original concept which you'll find described in the first post in this thread - do watch the videos that go with it if you haven't already. I'm sure if you email them they'd be happy to help you out re EU sizing. I certainly liked what I handled from this collection, particularly the triple detachable layer coat (cotton, wool, waterproof), voluminous yet not too heavy and certainly comfortable.

[christianef]

i find some of the buttoning a bit confusing. how many buttons does this jacket have?

seems like there one lower and opposite to the one you can see like the one above. but cant tell.

[Chant]

S+M+L