Young French Designers (I) - STAT_MENT [ADELINE BASELY]

[Chant]

Slim asymetrical drop crotch - Details

Front





Back





Details (colour is impossible to catch, sorry)

[maldoror]

^ ccp much?

[swami]

The slanted crotch has been around for a while no , ALA Linea,CDiem ?

The pants look very well made C but does the absence of pockets not bother you?
EDIT: Nevermind so your response in the other post

Looks good on you , very good!

[adeline basely]

no pockets!

these pants are a custom order specially designed for Christian.
his desire not having pockets allows a freedom in cut experimentation.

I understand your reluctance but I think this deal between christian and I takes part of my work and because of your reluctance this product is much more personal and exclusive.

thanks to all!

[DHC]

I think the pants would be ruined if you set pockets on them. I don't understand the aversion to pocket-less pants, but than again I'm always carrying a bag. Beautiful work Adeline! Based on the photos alone, I would have to say the execution of those pants couldn't have been better.

[Chant]

The pants look very well made C but does the absence of pockets not bother you?

Never had the use of the back pockets. And for the front, I just put some coins sometimes in them, or my cell phone. But because of the softness of the fabric, I wouldn't do it since the shape of the cell would be visible from the outside. So I put it in the jacket. So, no pockets needed. That's all.
In addition, the shape had to be as pure as possible, and Adeline was even reluctant to design the diagonal fly (see next message). So, form and function walked together.

[Chant]

^ ccp much?

Not sure that I understood correctly the remark.

But :
Yes, at first sight.
No, if you take a proper look at it.
Choose your side.

[Chant]

Once upon a time...

Flashback 1

Adeline, as a designer, knows CCP's work very well - and I should maybe not reveal it, but she had been choosen to be the one who was supposed to design a home line for L'E, before Armand Haddida changed his mind and shut down the project.
We had many discussions about his work, and especially about the sarouel pants he made, since it's one of her - and my - favourite shapes. We could even handle it irl, since I proxied these CCP sarouel pants for a member here two years ago.

We had both the same opinion about the cut, especially of the back : nicely awkward - as usual. But we didn't like it.

[Chant]

Flashback 2

One year later (2009), CCP designs something twice (or even three times) new : even though the overall shape of the sarouel is followed, the construction is now asymetrical (front and back), the fabric is very stiff and he uses the chainseam.

Result is very interesting, and absolutely CCP : the nicely awkwardness from his previous pants becomes now awkwardly awkward, because of the fabric's incredible stiffness, and the pants desserve well their new nickname : "poo pants" (or "diaper pants").
And people from A know it very well, since they ask the model to pose with spreaded legs, to hide the actual form of the back : very low, and making thus strange pleats, at least.

Again, neither Adeline nor I did like the result, even though I agree that it is indeed still very interesting.

[Chant]

Flashback 3

I've purchased this winter the asymetrical CCP blazer from SS 07.

I've tried some combinations :

But I didn't like the result, for the same reason, already stated : CCP's asymetry is not a nice one (like Ann's or Damir's), that enhances symetry, but which kills it.

Should I have bought the asymetrical sarouel to fit it in the outfit ?

- No, because I don't like it (and I'll never buy any CCP at retail for political reasons ).
- No, because the new shape can NOT work with the blazer, since the diagonals are inverted.

[Chant]

Flashback 4


So.
I've asked Adeline to design a slim drop crotch trousers that could fit the jacket. The idea was that an asymetrical fly could help, but she was reluctant since CCP had already done it and because she herself had already done it as well for a member here who wanted a CCP-like trousers, but without the awkward crotch :

But the main reason for her to be reluctant was that an asymetrical fly has no functional meaning.
She accepted nevertheless to try something, since she knew that the trousers had to fit the jacket. But she did it in a very personal way : very pure shape, one seam construction, slightly shifted aside diagonal fly, no unnecessary details (no pockets !) and a nice back, which was of course one of the main request.

Conclusion : she didn't rip off CCP, she designed a pair of trousers that would fit a CCP jacket - with great talent.


Now, let the pics speak by themselves :

FRONT

CCP




CCP/Adeline




Adeline







BACK

CCP



Adeline

[Chant]

Where are the opponents ?
Will I be the only one to play on the playground ?

You see, Boss, this is what happen when you ban the bad boys...

[diamonds]

when you walk isn't there an excess of tension put on the crotch seam?

[fenrost]

interesting.

there are 2 different level of ccp dropcrotch pants, they are called high split and low split. (the ones posted in chants are all low split)

the high split has less pleats, i find it less interesting actually (which probably why alot of stores din't order them?)... and obviously, the low split, are obviously have more excess fabric/more pleats.

i was advised to lay my ccp fly pants on the floor, diagonally (one leg up one leg down) against my one arm up one arm down jumper.. it created an interesting pattern, like an "X".


(a pic from cento: this is the high split pants, but as you can see the reasoning of the excess fabric at the crotch- so conceptual construction..)



--


you should have known this better chant, ccp isn't about about perfect silhouette. - ccp does not work on the body, he work against the body, using tension to create an unexpected awkwardness beauty.

so back again on discussion whether adeline have copied the fly pants, definitely far from it... cdiem does better if it's just the ideal dropcrotch, but in terms of construction/concepts.. ccp's are on another league.

[Chant]

but this are not about having a perfection - ccp does not work on the body, he work against the body, using tension to create an unexpected awkwardness to some, but beauty to some.

Some pre-mailmothian French intellectual said once : "Beauty is always awkward".