Geoffrey B. Small

[zamb]

Although I planned on being at Hotoveli to meet you and also to see friends I haven't seen in much too long a time, .

you should have been a little reckless and skipped the meetings
we would have taken you to Dinner with us

[Faust]

Yep, we went to a fancy restaurant... for burgers and beer.

[rider]

believe me, if I could have I would have. I was def NOT dressed for a meeting but for B.etter things...

[Anomie]

.

And while much attention has been placed on our men's work here on SZ, we would like to make a few upcoming posts about our women's collection too, which actually represents about half of our worldwide business even though it seems to garner far less attention than our menswear.

[/COLOR]

Yes! My wife just picked up a beautiful skirt at IF and an amazing Jacket this past July at Kamille. Beautiful work!

[Geoffrey B. Small]

"forests and trees" shot by Guido Barbagelata

.

Thank you so much Anomie and Rider for your purchases, support and
recent comments. Thanks Zam and Faust for the night out, I will say
that the burgers were very good indeed (sorry we missed you, Rider).

In continuation of the women's collection posts, I would now like to
introduce photo images of the Paris show shot by Guido Barbagelata
with some brief descriptions and the names of the people who walked
for us and pulled off the amazing choreography (see video post #779).
Hope you like it... cheers, Geoffrey & the Team







"Forests and Trees"
Paris autumn/winter 2015 presentation
photoraphed by Guido Barbegelata






Barbara

Italian deluxe pure merino luxury wool jersey asymmetric Vercelli
double-zip cardigan with special technique structured knit details.
Luigi Parisotto exclusive wool and cotton corsair trouser. G. Rebesco
handmade Vicentina calfskin trainer.




Nastia

Italian pure merino luxury wool jersey Vercelli double-zip cardigan
with special technique structured knit details. L. Parisotto exclusive
winter cotton & wool Bondone cloth skirt. Giuseppe Rebesco
handmade Vicentina calfskin trainer.




Tamara

Italian deluxe pure merino luxury wool jersey asymmetric handsewn
buttonhole and Fontana horn buttons (Parma) cardigan with special
technique structured knit details. Handmade fully-lined pleated twisted
lining skirt dress with square neck in L. Parisotto silk, cashmere &
wool with Tessitura Mauri viscose linings (Como). Giuseppe Rebesco
handmade goodyear-welt construction Concerie '800' (Toscana)
vegetable tanned women's calfskin derby.




Vassiliki

Italian deluxe pure merino luxury wool jersey handsewn buttonhole
and Fontana horn buttons (Parma) long point cardigan with special
technique structured knit detailing and pure linen details. G. Rebesco
abstract form calfskin glove, handmade Vicentina deluxe calfskin trainer.




Marya

Extreme assymetric long point double-opening cardigan with special
technique structured knit details in Italian deluxe pure merino luxury
wool jersey with extensive handsewn buttonholes and Fontana horn
buttons (Parma). G. Rebesco fully-lined handmade Vicentina luxury
calfskin trainer.




Vali

handmade 5-special button sweater jacket with handmade buttonholes
in hand dyed Italian Extrafine Merino Wool Jersey and L. Parisotto
Bondone Winter cotton & wool herringbone with Como viscose linings.
Handmade assymetric point fully-lined skirt with special Fontana horn
buttons (Parma) in hand dyed L. Parisotto Silk, Cashmere & wool
special weave cloth with Como viscose linings. G. Rebesco handmade
Vicentina calfskin confezione ago construction classic chukkha boot.




Karina

handmade single-breasted one button-front peak lapel jacket with
handstitch buttonholes, working surgeon's cuffs & special buttons from
Claudio & Cinzia Fontana in hand dyed L.Parisotto Silk, Cashmere &
special weave linen with Como Viscose & Bemberg linings. L. Parisotto
super 120's double-twist Venezia luxury cotton handmade shirt.
Women's G. Rebesco vegetable-tanned Concerie '800' Toscana leather
chukkha boot with goodyear-welt sole construction.




Kristina

hand dyed Fratelli Piacenza 1733 angora, cashmere & wool handmade
single-breasted assymetric 3-button tailored jacket w/special horn
buttons (Fontana) and handstitch buttonholes with pure Como silk
(body) & Bemberg (sleeve) linings. Pure hand dyed Como raso silk
satin handmade ladies tunic dress with round neck, handmade welt
pockets & extensive handstitch detailing. G. Rebesco authentic
Montebelluna handmade Vicentina calfskin deluxe mountain shoe.




Julika

Handmade single-breasted peak-lapel jacket in hand dyed Lanificio
Moessmer pure mountain tweed wool with 100% silk raso satin linings
(Como). Double-breasted peak lapel 6-button waistcoat and assymetric
pleated skirt in hand dyed L. Parisotto silk and cashmere special
weave tweed with Ezio Ghiringhelli special jacquard weave viscose
lining story. Vicentina calfskin confezione ago construction chukkha
boot handmade for us by Giuseppe Rebesco.




Joanna

handmade single-breasted 6-button notch-lapel fully-lined jacket and
skirt in L. Parisotto hand dyed wool & linen special weave suit with
Como viscose & Bemberg linings, handstitch buttonholes & special horn
buttons by Fontana (Parma). Pure hand dyed Como raso floral silk
satin handmade ladies round neck blouse. G. Rebesco authentic
Montebelluna handmade Vicentina calfskin deluxe mountain shoe.

.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

(continued from above)

.

Nastya

handmade modified 1950's European 3/4 length single-button 3-button
raglan split sleeve coat and fitted tailored assymetric back-pleated
fully-lined skirt in hand dyed L. Parisotto wool & linen twill with Como
cotton & viscose and Bemberg linings. Extrafine Italian deluxe merino
wool knit arm-warmer. G. Rebesco handmade Vicentina calfskin
deluxe trainer shoe.




Rhana

handmade single-breasted leaf abd flower-collared coat w/handmade
buttonholes and buttons in L. Parisotto heavyweight linen, wool, silk
and cashmere coating twill. G. Rebesco 19th century handmade
Vicentina calfskin women's laceup boot.




Jill

handmade loden lattice patchwork long jacket coat with Fontana horn
special buttons in hand wash 100% Biella wool twill with Tyrolean
pure wool Loden cloth panels & special Como Viscose linings.
handmade 1940's french working women's patchwork skirt in
handwash Biella Extrafine Tasmanian stripe wool, Varese herringbone
linen & L.Parisotto wool & indigo cotton combination. handmade G.
Rebesco goodyear welt construction toscana vegetable tanned Conceria
'ottocento' leather women's derby.




Anja

Piacenza super 150's Emotions micron wool handmade relaxed living
coat with Tekstina Hapsburg royal family cotton and E. Ghiringhelli
jacquard linings. 1940's french atelier reproduction work coat dress in
L. Parisotto indigo cotton & wool. G. Rebesco 19th century handmade
Vicentina calfskin women's laceup boot.




Julia

handmade 3/4 length single-button 3-button raglan split sleeve coat
in hand dyed L. Parisotto Bondone winter cotton & wool & linen
herringbone with Como cotton & viscose and Bemberg linings.
L.Parisotto wool, cotton, silk, ailored fully-lined skirt. Extrafine deluxe
Italian Merino wool knit arm-warmer sleeve. G. Rebesco handmade
goodyear welt construction Concerie 'ottocento' vegetable tanned
leather bostonian saddle shoe.




Karina R

1940's reproduction lined smock coat with yoke and handmade
buttonholes & special buttons in hand dye 100% Biella micro check
pindot wool with E.Ghiringhelli jacquard viscose and Bemberg lining
story. handmade gathered waist L. Moessmer lanacotta boiled wool A-
line jumper Dress with venetian cotton lace trim and E.Ghiringhelli
jacquard viscose linings. G. Rebesco handmade Vicentina calfskin
confezione ago construction bostonian saddle shoe.




Nicole

handmade single-breasted 3/4 bell sleeve shawl collared 1950's opera
coat reproduction in hand dyed L.Parisotto silk, cashmere, wool &
cotton special weave w/silk & cotton Super 120's double-twist luxury
fabric lining. 3-in-1, removable flower, classic & mandarin 2-collar
fitted handmade L. Parisotto silk & cotton Super 120's double-twist
luxury striped tailor's blouse with handstitch silk buttonholes & pearl
buttons. L. Parisotto silk, cashmere, wool & cotton curved pleated tulip
wrap skirt with bemberg linings. G. Rebesco handmade Vicentina
calfskin deluxe trainer shoe.




Selena

hand dyed L.Parisotto Silk, Cashmere & wool diagonal twill 19th
century modified pattern long D-B 12-button handmade coat with pure
Como silk & Bemberg linings. Biella Extrafine striped Tasmanian wool
dress with E.Ghiringhelli jacquard and venetian lace trim. G. Rebesco
handmade Vicentina calfskin deluxe trainer shoe.




Tanya

Hand dyed silk, cashmere & wool (Luigi Parisotto) diagonal superlux
twill handmade 4-button single-breasted round lapel topcoat with
special buttons and Tessitura Mauri (Como) viscose linings. 1940's long
tailored work undershirt dress with handsewn buttonholes and detailing
in hand dye L. Parisotto 100% superlight organic linen w/Varese pure
cotton velvet pinwale details. Giuseppe Rebesco Vicentina suede and
calfskin 1910's side-button high top deluxe trainer.




Jessamine

handmade single-button peak-lapel fitted jacket and tailored jumper
dress in hand dyed L. Parisotto silk, cashmere & wool pindot weave
suiting. Super 120's double-twist luxury stripe cotton (L. Parisotto)
handmade ruffle front shirt with pearl buttons. G. Rebesco handmade
goodyear welt Concerie 'ottocento' vegetable tanned leather
bostonian style saddle shoe.

.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

(continued from above)

.

Louise

hand dyed Fratelli Piacenza 1733 angora, cashmere & wool jacket,
waistcoat and trouser 3-piece handmade suit. L. Parisotto superlux fat
silk yarn and special weave linen chenille velvet d-b 19th coat with E.
Ghiringhelli jacquard linings. Como silk & cotton striped chiffon and
pearl button handmade blouse. G. Rebesco handmade Concerie
'ottocento' Toscana vegetable-tanned leather deluxe trainer shoe.






- - - - -






"Forests and Trees"
is available in the world exclusively at


Kamille, Paris
Hostem, London
Persuade, Bilbao
Eth0s, Shanghai
Noodle Stories, Los Angeles
IF, New York
Hotoveli, New York
Arts & Science, Tokyo & Kyoto
Journal Standard Luxe, Tokyo & Osaka
24th of August, Osaka
Permanent Modern, Kumamoto
Farenah, Sofia
Axsum, Bordeaux
Raffi, Treviglio





N.B.
we remind readers that our collections are expressly
prohibited from being sold on any e-commerce sites. We are also
unable to accept any direct personal orders from individuals. Please
contact or visit our exclusive authorized dealers directly for any
further information or assistance regarding the collection.
thank you so much for your viewing and understanding.

.

[porthidium]

A dear friend of mine introduced me to your menswear work a long time ago - incredible the amount of detail, care, and respect that is put into every garment.

Now...that [Nastia] Italian pure merino luxury wool jersey Vercelli double-zip cardigan with special technique structured knit details - has caught my eye. I really really need to get my hands on it.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Thank you porthidium, you can try IF in New York, we made 2 pieces for them this season... best wishes, Geoffrey

[clay]

It was great meeting you also Geoffrey! The clothes looked and felt amazing. Interestingly, I met another designer today whose work and dedication to the art I admire. It was Ralph Rucci. So sad he had to walk away from his label due to financial deals that led to him losing control of something he loved and built. Testament to keeping the the corplantation's out of your life.

[Ahimsa]

It was a pleasure to meet you as well Geoffrey! I admire your views on fashion so much. It was great being able to speak with you at dinner.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Thanks again Clay and Ahimsa, the pleasure was truly mine to see and meet you both! With another thank you to everyone at SZ and Hotoveli for hosting the event during my visit. Now a link to some coverage and images on our AW2015 women's collection in Paris by Cecilia Musmeci at leparadox with thanks:

http://www.leparadox.com/fashion/geo...ter-2015-2016/

Coming up soon: a look in more detail at selected pieces from the collection.
Best wishes and thanks again to all,
Geoffrey & the Team

[Geoffrey B. Small]

WSWK05

.

Following runway images and video from previous posts, I will now try to give readers a look in more detail at selected pieces from the women's 'forest & trees' collection. As an SZ reader, I am feeling there is a lack of posts lately about specific designs relative to several years back and a little too much leaning perhaps towards celebrity/ marketing/ promo/ selling issues etc-- so I would like to try to do my part and start posting more pieces from our collections and workrooms as they come to fruition and become available in stores.

The super limited edition WSWK05 cardigan sweater dress design below is one of only 6 pieces made by hand in the entire world. It was created as part of our “Forests & Trees” Paris collection on deforestation and the importance of trees today as the key solution to stop and reverse global warming. The design uses a new long pointed cardigan sweater dress pattern, with special new tailored knitwear sleeve, pocket and detail techniques that resemble leaves, branches and tree forms and shapes. The new techniques developed from our extensive research, were performed by hand in our workrooms in Italy at Cavarzere Venezia, using a pure deluxe Italian pratese extrafine luxury Merino knit exclusively for us in Tuscany by the Landi family in Prato.

A forgotten treasure, Merino wool's basic natural properties have provided amazing thermal control, insulation, moisture management, odor control, fire safety, easy care and of course, incredible comfort & softness for millennia. Along with odor control, the complex structure of the Merino fibers provide a unique ability to both absorb and repel moisture. Merino fibers bend against the skin providing a level of comfort not found in other types of wool garments, heavier fibers can press against the skin and cause itchy irritation, but Merino will feel soft, super fine and comfortable. In wet cooler, climates the moisture interacts with the chemical properties of the wool generating small amounts of heat that prevent the wearer from feeling cold… air is trapped next to the skin by the natural crimp of the fibers, making the Merino garment warm. Superb odor control during heavy activity and sweating are found in Merino fibers unlike synthetic fibers or even cotton. And the Merino made for us by the Landi family is super... the best we have ever found (more preferable to us than many cashmeres) with substantial weight, volume and ultrasoft feel, naturally resistant to wrinkles and shrinkage, and naturally flame retardant, unlike synthetic fibers or cotton.

The piece also features a beautiful new button design in real horn created only for us by the legendary Fontana buttonmakers in Parma. Each one is double-backed with a real mother-of-pearl button on the inside for extra strength and durability. The design also has no less than 10 hand stitched buttonholes done in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads and hand sewn pressure snap under the front-placket closure for maximum comfort and wearability as a cardigan sweater or knitwear dress (each buttonhole requires 8-10 minutes to cut and sew, so figure about an hour and 40 minutes of work just on buttonholes for 1 piece). The interior is also beautifully finished and detailed using special Italian bias raised twill tapes from Padova, then specially hand dyed in our studios using a painstaking process that required over 8 hours of work for each piece to achieve its unique color, patina and yes, incredible softness. 6 pieces of the WSWK05 were created for the entire world this season, available exclusively at IF and Hotoveli in New York, Al Select in Kichijoji, and Permanent Modern in Kumamoto. 2 different special modified versions were also created for Raffi in Treviglio (2 pieces), and Eth0s in Shanghai (3 pieces).

Thanks for reading, best wishes,
Geoffrey & the Team






















.

[Faust]

Thank you, Geoffrey. Indeed, it would be nice to right the ship in the discussion of more technical/aesthetic direction than shopping.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

WSWS02

.
Thank you Faust for the encouragement, we will do our best...

Now for another example, here below a special version of the WSWS02 tailor’s blouse design also from our “Forests & Trees” AW2015 women's Paris collection. It has a slightly modified fit and cut from the original as shown in Paris and is one of only 2 pieces created by hand in the entire world exclusively for Noodle Stories in Los Angeles. The removable “3-in-one” large ruffled flower, classic men's, and mandarin collar fitted tailor's blouse pattern developed from our extensive research allows its owner to wear the piece in three totally different ways, maximizing its investment value for money. Cut by hand, single-ply (no layers), in an incredible new fabric masterpiece developed and woven only for us by the master research weaver, Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo, Italy that combines both silk and cotton organic grezzo (unfinished using no chemical treatments) Super 120’s double-twist yarns. An ultra-luxury shirting cloth so rare in its technical composition, weave structure, and amazingly natural and wonderful hand that words and photos simply cannot do it justice. The design also features some truly beautiful real mother-of-pearl shell buttons made for us in Padova, Italy, and a whopping 18 of our signature real handsewn buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to create… a total of over 3 hours of expert work on the buttonholes for this piece alone), all done in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Milano Seta Reale threads, then specially hand washed for extra aging and softness. Only 2 pieces in this modified body fit were made for the world exclusively for Noodle Stories in Los Angeles, and 2 pieces in the original body pattern for Farenah in Sofia. So a max of 4 pieces in the entire world. We hope you like it, thanks for reading.

Best wishes, Geoffrey