Ann Demeulemeester FW13

[Patroklus]

i haven't found much in the way of archives of her 80s work, but the westwoodesque bondage stuff was my favorite of what i've seen of that era. i still see the punk stuff, but it's more obvious in her womenswear, which is always better than the men's.

[Chant]

i always thought ann was at her best when she left the renaissance fair costumes behind, but apparently not when she self-consciously tried to do so. i say it all the time that the amorphous cobweb blob knits are my favorite. i could see how the infamous cthulhu cardigan from half the waywts i posted fits into her historical vision but it's never the first reaction that people have to it.

maybe she should continue to start with the historical stuff, but abstract further before she finishes.

It's often more folklorical - and even sometimes cliché - than historical.

[BSR]

It's often more folklorical - and even sometimes cliché - than historical.

especially when she does floral suits

[Patroklus]

well, i've seen a lot of parallels in the way she cuts and patterns a garment and the way garments used to be cut and patterned. it's not quite harndenesque, but it's definitely an older approach than most of her contemporaries.

[Mail-Moth]

I wrote fantasmatic, guys

Don't tell me you don't remember what happened when offsprings from the punk era came to fantasize about the victorian one.

[Chant]

I know, my reply was directed at Patroklus, not at you.

[gall]

If there is ever to be a young Mapplethorpe to Ann’s Patti it is certainly this collection, robes and all. The way this is presented from the garments, to the models, backdrop, soundtrack, hair and makeup is all so cohesive and leads to a wonderful narrative. These new romantic shepherd boys are awfully charming.

[mrbeuys]

Don't tell me you don't remember what happened when offsprings from the punk era came to fantasize about the victorian one.

I LOL'd IRL

[wurm]

i'm curious about what the sneakers will look like. hopefully better than the more recent ones. this is a great collection so it seems promising.

[Faust]

The sneakers are clean, think leather converse with a zipper on the side and extra long laces.

[akkeri]

Love.

Fingers crossed for an improvement in the quality of construction (esp. the trousers) after a couple of shoddy seasons...

[Faust]

In the showroom I felt that quality went up a notch.

[springsummer1993]

This collection looks like she felt she needed a clean slate, a step away from the experimentation with colour and textures of SS13. I'd say I'm a fan of this. In love with the extended cuffs of the dress shirts, but, they also look like knee lengths. Am I seeing right?

[Faust]

Ann will offer different lengths in the showroom.

[fadetogrey]

Oh wow, this is beautiful. Makes me excited for the women's show. Any hints? I'm hoping knee-high combat boots for us too!