Saint Laurent Paris FW13

[Fuuma]

Who would be relevant then? An honest question, cause I don't know. Actually, I don't know if rock is any longer relevant in selling an aesthetic. It seems that the rappers have successfully coopted that power today.

Relevant does not mean I like their music or their image but using Doherty back in DH days was relevant.

[March27]

The problem is that Doherty has been used in past campaigns, but especially in the Hed photographer's career.

Do not tell me that the season FW07 DH was Rock!

It was innovative,he relaunched the Saharan style trousers with boots, overlays and much more.
The problem here is that Hedi focused only about her "photographer's Rock" past!

[H-R]

Who would be relevant then? An honest question, cause I don't know. Actually, I don't know if rock is any longer relevant in selling an aesthetic. It seems that the rappers have successfully coopted that power today.

If one is dead-set on the skinny aesthetic, rock and roll will always be relevant IMO. I think rap/hip-hop is more suited to peddle loose/baggy silhouette like Rick or Givenchy. As far as names, I can think of Ariel Pink, Ty Segall or Kurt Vile, as they seem to be the names that are getting the hype around music blogosphere...

[fncyths]

I agree that Slimane is going through an identity crisis. I love the DH era and thought that using Doherty, Franz Ferdinand, the Killers, LCD Soundsystem, etc. was very prevalent for the times. Now the face of rock is changing, EDM is taking over, and I agree with Faust that the Rap swagger and outward defiance of culture has led them to explore some of our favorite designers and they're the ones spear heading this type of relationship working with cult designers.

Here's an interesting read on Daft Punk's new album and process. There is some mentioning of Slimane and their involvement with him

http://www.rollingstone.com/music/ne...album-20130413

There are very few bands today that I feel like are carrying the torch of cutting edge style and relevance, Hurts comes to mind, Matthew Dear, the xx, Gesaffelstein, Mark Ronson, etc. I'm just pulling names that first come to mind.

Personally I'm more interested in the progression of the changing male silhouette, with the aging and definition of taste and curated culture as it pertains to music and it's relationship with design and high fashion.

Geller and Plokhov remain on my radar as relevant, would love to see Zam enter into this realm as well, as I feel he's part of that NYC scene...

back to Slimane, I want to love SL, I really do, I have a few pieces of YSL from the Pilati era that speak volumes of le vie romantique, and Slimane is yet to do that for me. Maybe because my generation is spending less time sniffing keys in bathroom stalls, and more time outisde communing with the elements...

[Faust]

What I meant by my previous comment is that it seems like the era of the rock star is over. Rockers are too timid and too self-conscious and the rock scene is too fragmented and too expansive - they are no stars but a ton of starlets. I think rappers have taken over the mantle of the so-called "swag."

I also might be completely out of touch with the music scene, by the way!

[fncyths]

Couldn't agree with you more. The indie moniker has completely blighted the ideal of there ever being a rock star again.

I'm sure many could argue that notion, but I agree. Rarely is my hair blown back when I attend shows. There are a few out there that still sit on the throne... Jamie Hince, Jack White, Nick Cave come to mind...

[Castor]

One could even argue that fashion designers themselves have eclipsed rock stars in their star power. For Slimane to require a rock star as a muse is a very dated concept and as long as he sticks to this format, I doubt he will achieve any critical respect.

I think rock stars and hip hop artists lack any influence on fashion designers because they don't dress with originality. They have become mostly fashion victims in the last decade.

[Faust]

I don't think Slimane is out for critical respect ;-)

[galia]

Why, galia?

I do think in the developed affluent Western society 30s are the new 20s :-)

yes, and this is why you have people in their 30's acting like teenagers in clubs, which I always found ridiculous on men and tragic on women

maybe the theme of the campaign is "former glories found at the chateau marmont". actually if I try to see as faded grandeur of former LA underground royalty it makes more sense but remains uninteresting.

[Castor]

yes, and this is why you have people in their 30's acting like teenagers in clubs, which I always found ridiculous on men and tragic on women

maybe the theme of the campaign is "former glories found at the chateau marmont". actually if I try to see as faded grandeur of former LA underground royalty it makes more sense but remains uninteresting.

That would require quite a bit of irony and I don't think any exists in the current SL. I think the work and the influences are all extremely literal and that is the problem.

[Castor]

I don't think Slimane is out for critical respect ;-)

But, it does still seem to hurt him when he does not get it. His response to his critics is quite clear.

[Faust]

I never said he doesn't have an outsize ego. :}

[galia]

That would require quite a bit of irony and I don't think any exists in the current SL. I think the work and the influences are all extremely literal and that is the problem.

yeah, I'm afraid I do agree

[Castor]

At the end of the day, sales and attention are all through the roof, which in the current luxury fashion climate is unsurprising. Is there even a remote possibility that we are not getting it? That Slimane is ahead of some underground LA curve?

[Faust]

New York Times Article