Saint Laurent Paris FW13

[Fade to Black]

" So what if the reviews were dreadful? This was more or less what Mr. Slimane had expected. Mr. Bergé said that the two had discussed the reactions and compared them to those faced by Mr. Saint Laurent with his famously scandalous 1971 collection, which took inspiration from 1940s flea-market fashion. The groundbreaking fashion critic Eugenia Sheppard described it as “frankly, definitely and completely hideous.”

If Mr. Saint Laurent could survive that, there is hope for Mr. Slimane."

I wonder if there may indeed be some truth in that. I haven't been terribly fond of the SL collections but over time and based on personal observation/experience of the world in general I've learned to be wary of critical reception in the present.

[Faust]

I think we live in a very different world from 1971, FtB. Simane is not here to defy bourgeois conventions.

By the way, I just realized why he dropped "Y". SL simply becomes SLimane. Falls in line with the inflated ego theory (or shall we say "axiom"?).

[Stijn]

If the new campaign and show tries to be serious I can only enjoy it as camp. Or is there a sense of irony? In that case it's even worse probably. You can't enjoy it genuinely and also not in a campy way.

[Faust]

/\ I don't understand your statement. Camp IS irony. And I am sure camp is the last thing on Hedi's mind.

[interest1]

/\ I don't understand your statement. Camp IS irony. And I am sure camp is the last thing on Hedi's mind.

More like camping, with all that check flannel.


On another note (and hopefully a final one):

[Blackman]

" So what if the reviews were dreadful? This was more or less what Mr. Slimane had expected. Mr. Bergé said that the two had discussed the reactions and compared them to those faced by Mr. Saint Laurent with his famously scandalous 1971 collection, which took inspiration from 1940s flea-market fashion. The groundbreaking fashion critic Eugenia Sheppard described it as “frankly, definitely and completely hideous.”

If Mr. Saint Laurent could survive that, there is hope for Mr. Slimane."

blasphemous comparison.

[shdws]

Weirdly enough this video is so addictive:

So is the music, judge away.

[canderson]

i am really over this. saint laurent feels like expensive high street fashion

[agentred]

I agree with 90% of this thread, it looks like a rehash of mid-00's DH (especially the giant scarves), the shirts scream high street and the shoes are endlessly generic. Heck, even if he's playing off the H&M look, he's missing the levity of the DH t-shirts.

BUT

The fit on the basics is phenomenal. Somebody mentioned earlier that they didn't like the quality, but I think the suits are right up there with Siki Im and Alexandre Plokhov (IMO the current standard bearers of American and Italian construction), and the silhouette on the leathers is excellent.

This isn't a defense of the collection, it lacks cohesion etc., but for individual pieces, if you're looking for a suit or tux or blazer, I would recommend stopping in to try it. I walked into SL wanting to hate everything and walked out with a damn nice suit and an intense longing for the varsity jacket in blue.

[Dreavan]

SLP is right now the main topic in terms of controversy these last seasons.

Quality, strategy of pricing, logo and so on. This is a lot of movement in such an historical french classic brand. I don't think Hedi Slimane is able to bring something better than what he did from 2001 to 2007 at Dior.

But still I have to admit that it's still possible to find great individual pieces and iconic garments from the old YSL vestiaire.
The tailoring category is very nice and some fabrics are amazing. We cannot compare with Zegna approach of the suits but still, this is a good point to highlight + leathers are great, with a good lambskin and many choices in terms of details.

I also liked the biker denim with leather and zips on the knees that will retail at an affordable price (but only for very skinny guys and gals)

[Illithid Dude]

I agree. I'm not going to be rushing out to try and recreate any of the looks from the F/W runway, but in terms of certain individual pieces, I really like SLP. Also, no one is really doing skinny anymore, so if you are like me and really like that look, there isn't much else to turn to.

[exterminatingphantom]

I think the comments about SLP being high street fashion are totally valid, and although this is definitely high street luxury, the quality of the individual pieces are not much different than what you would see at Balenciaga or Lanvin, the difference in my eyes are that these pieces are much more wearable. I find a certain level of comfort knowing that I can wear a nice, quality shirt without having to dig through the myriad of options containing flashy loud colours and python snake skin panels.

I personally still love the output from Rick and Boris, A1923 and MA+, but sometimes it feels too aggressive on me and I want to tone it back and look good without having to stand out much. As far as the basics go, i'm very happy with them. Sure it's overpriced, but the prices are still on par with any of the other big fashion houses.

[Faust]

I agree with 90% of this thread, it looks like a rehash of mid-00's DH (especially the giant scarves), the shirts scream high street and the shoes are endlessly generic. Heck, even if he's playing off the H&M look, he's missing the levity of the DH t-shirts.

BUT

The fit on the basics is phenomenal. Somebody mentioned earlier that they didn't like the quality, but I think the suits are right up there with Siki Im and Alexandre Plokhov (IMO the current standard bearers of American and Italian construction), and the silhouette on the leathers is excellent.

This isn't a defense of the collection, it lacks cohesion etc., but for individual pieces, if you're looking for a suit or tux or blazer, I would recommend stopping in to try it. I walked into SL wanting to hate everything and walked out with a damn nice suit and an intense longing for the varsity jacket in blue.

They do good work but they are certainly no such thing.

And I'd say in terms of cohesion for a brand, let alone a collection, Slimane is pretty damn good.

I also find the comments about this being overpriced streetwear as a good thing strange. I always thought fashion is about having something special and not something that can be easily replicated on high street.

[exterminatingphantom]

I always thought fashion is about having something special and not something that can be easily replicated on high street.

Thats the thing, from afar it doesn't look like anything special, but up close, the details and subtleties on some of the clothes start to show. For example the washed silk shirts from afar look like a really nice vintage band shirt, but when you actually get up close to it, wear it and feel it, there is a certain movement to the fabric that I haven't seen elsewhere, on top of feeling and looking luxurious. The price is still high, but not much more than anything from Rick, and no one is really doing this kind of aesthetic with this kind of quality. Even the sneakers, as much as they look like unbranded adidas, have a certain vibrancy and pop to them that just can't be seen from any of the photographs.

[fncyths]

no one is really doing this kind of aesthetic with this kind of quality...

?

The price is still high, but not much more than anything from Rick

First off, sit down, have a drink, and clear the sheen away from your glossed out vision. I think you're missing the point entirely when comparing price points from SLP to RO.

What Hedi is doing is capturing rock & roll / glam / street / youth / drug culture and glorifying it:
being strung out has NEVER been soo sexy

On the contrast what Rick is doing is creating a world where those who seek sanctuary can dwell...

reaching (dystopia / utopia) has EVER been soo sexy