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Boris Bidjan Saberi SS14 Sailorism
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I was a bit worried when the first thing I saw were the yellow/mustard jackets, then going through the collection I started feeling like he had departed in a way from what he´s known for, and then I was able to really appreciate by looking at some detail shots and I gotta say I love it so much, all. Black and white "transparent" knits will be my first buy for sure. I must have one of those.
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I thought it was a strong collection overall. The theme is well executed without going too over the top. it comes into play in a few different forms:
- the colour palette where the yellow mimics life vests and fishing gear as well as some moderate striping
- materials: the white parkas and some of the bags for example are actually made of sails. the type used on the parkas is super thin but obviously very strong and waterproof, the one on bags and such is thick and heavy. Some of the stitching also mimics the style used on sails. There are actual ropes used in some of knits and accessories, and the scarfs kind of look like fishnets.
- cuts and details: the vest again are a bit reminiscent of life vests, whereas the parkas are like rain gear. The bombers have this built in hoo/poncho thing that folds out from the upper back and covers the head and the entire front of the body. many garments also utilize straps which again, come from life vests and such. The straps are used to adjust the garments, for example, the hem length on both tops and shorts. Particularly on the shorts its executed beautifully, the straps are on the back and can be used to alter the length and entire shaping while leaving them to drape neatly.
There are of course a ton of basics in the collection just like every season, done in black, various greys and also in the yellow/orange colour. t-shirts, hoodies, cardigans, tanks, crushed jeans (also in yellow, these look crazy). There are regular sneakers in various styles, even though the lookbook was just shot with the cutout ones. There are also heavier gumsole boots, one sort of like hiking boots, and another tall rubberboot-like style."AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG
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Originally posted by kunk75 View Poststarting to believe that all designers really just think we should all wear tee shirts and flip flops in spring/summer"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG
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Originally posted by lowrey View PostI'm curious to know why you think so, because there is so, so much more to this collection than that. theres outerwear, tailoring, leather, tech-type materials.. and the "flip flops" are basically sneakers with cutouts.
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Seasonally appropriate varies globally, so I think this is intentional for some markets. I actually like it because I don't always shop with any particular season in mind, for example, I will often buy sweaters from SS collections on sale thinking toward AW. Same with leathers. Who can wear a leather jacket from anyone in June in NYC?Originally posted by DRRRKThe bridge from Dior to CCP being Rick Owens.
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Originally posted by lowrey View PostI thought it was a strong collection overall. The theme is well executed without going too over the top. it comes into play in a few different forms:
- the colour palette where the yellow mimics life vests and fishing gear as well as some moderate striping
- materials: the white parkas and some of the bags for example are actually made of sails. the type used on the parkas is super thin but obviously very strong and waterproof, the one on bags and such is thick and heavy. Some of the stitching also mimics the style used on sails. There are actual ropes used in some of knits and accessories, and the scarfs kind of look like fishnets.
- cuts and details: the vest again are a bit reminiscent of life vests, whereas the parkas are like rain gear. The bombers have this built in hoo/poncho thing that folds out from the upper back and covers the head and the entire front of the body. many garments also utilize straps which again, come from life vests and such. The straps are used to adjust the garments, for example, the hem length on both tops and shorts. Particularly on the shorts its executed beautifully, the straps are on the back and can be used to alter the length and entire shaping while leaving them to drape neatly.
There are of course a ton of basics in the collection just like every season, done in black, various greys and also in the yellow/orange colour. t-shirts, hoodies, cardigans, tanks, crushed jeans (also in yellow, these look crazy). There are regular sneakers in various styles, even though the lookbook was just shot with the cutout ones. There are also heavier gumsole boots, one sort of like hiking boots, and another tall rubberboot-like style.
When glancing over it quickly I could see a few details reminiscent of CCP in there. (Not a bad thing)
As always "haters gon' hate" but I'll be looking forward to buying from this collection as I have with all Boris' others.
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