Helmut Lang sans Lang

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



[quote user="Tafkap"]Believe me, I want to hate it. Being from L.A. I def want to puke thinking about a husband and wife duo taking over Helmut Lang. I mean, in a way they seem like your typical L.A. designers...(not that good, ignorant, etc.)....but Helmut Lang is legendary, there's no one who can take away what he's done. It's better than it being completely over. To tell you the truth, I love Raf but I hate the idea of even him designing for Jil Sander. I think when it boils down to it, it is nice to see some new blood taking over such a big brand. I mean, I hate Karl Lagerfeld for example beacuse he's just too old. He's like Michael Jackson, hanging out with all these young kids, Lindsay, etc. It's gross. I think it is great that Younger people can design for such an established brand. Instead of bringing in old folks. I mean, we're gonna see Hedi Slimane designing for yearssssss...It's nice now, but it's already old to me. Out with the old in with the new.[/quote]

Me too. And I hate his second line, total garbage.

I don't think it's a matter of old and new. Karl just sucks as a designer - he is just a celebrity, a skeevy one at that. The problem with the new is that we haven't had anyone new, except maybe Plokhov (and he's going downheal at the speed of light). Everyone else has been a totaly talentless hack and a hype machine - Posen, Saphaforuwhatever, As Twenty, etc., etc.

[casem]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

The thing I don't like about this article is it makes it sound like Helmut Lang was so unsuccessful with his own brand. He must have been doing pretty well on his own to make Prada want to buy him. Wasn't his financial downfall due to producing too many basics? Like too many left over jeans, stretch pants, chords etc? They make it sound like his clothes were too crazy and unwearable, but the bulk of stuff you find on yoox or on sale is the plain and boring stuff.

Some of the descriptions of what they are coming up with sound promising. But I almost don't want to buy anything on principle, plus the lower price points will probably mean poor quality. I don't know why I have such devotion to Helmut himself, I wasn't all that upset when Jil Sander left again, and I quite like what Raf has done for the label. But I still hate the thought of anyone else doing Helmut Lang. I'm also afraid of them running the name into the ground with mass licensing and poor quality, which is something that won't happen with Jil because they are keeping it a luxury brand. I can just see the new Helmut Lang display at Macy's ::shudder::

[laika]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

[quote user="Faust"]

Well, nothing new here. What can I say, except, "there goes the neigborhood."

BTW, it would serve Mrs. Colovos well if she learned the differences between terms Modernity and Modernism.

[/quote]

I think it was the Mr. who confused them actually. Good catch though. [;)]

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



Stick a fork in it (scroll down WARNING: you will be redirected to shopbop.com)

[justine]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

For me, Helmut Lang is not a brand, he's a genius clothes designer! I think the business folks at Prada and Theory just don't understand that concept after spending too much time in boardrooms and mba classes.

[nairb49]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



I see it as a total disaster. Theory should have set it aside strictly as an independent "experiment" and handed over the reigns to Plokhov.

As far as them making money, I think the post a few above hit the nail on the head. Basically the semi-executive "artiste" or budding professional who wants to rise above the Club Monaco/Banana Republic to the Holt Renfrew/Barney's but aren't quite financially there yet. So they see clothing styled like the CM/BR that they're comfortable with, and take the Theory name/price association as "designer" and voila, sold. I see it as a "gateway" label leading to the bigger mass-houses; Zegna, Armani and the like.

Wrong thread, but do the rumors that Plokhov will be starting his own line under a different name with different partners have any truth?

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

[quote user="nairb49"]

I see it as a total disaster. Theory should have set it aside strictly as an independent "experiment" and handed over the reigns to Plokhov.

As far as them making money, I think the post a few above hit the nail on the head. Basically the semi-executive "artiste" or budding professional who wants to rise above the Club Monaco/Banana Republic to the Holt Renfrew/Barney's but aren't quite financially there yet. So they see clothing styled like the CM/BR that they're comfortable with, and take the Theory name/price association as "designer" and voila, sold. I see it as a "gateway" label leading to the bigger mass-houses; Zegna, Armani and the like.

Wrong thread, but do the rumors that Plokhov will be starting his own line under a different name with different partners have any truth?

[/quote]

That's good analysis, nairb. As far as Plokhov rumors, well, they are just rumors.

[macuser3of5]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

See, I feel the real genius of Helmut Lang wasn't in bondage inserts in jackets, strange cuttings in shirts, or anything like that. Helmut Lang's lasting impression on me, and what first attracted me to the label, was the idea of a casual uniform. Something simple like a t-shirt and cord jeans are tremendously flexible and elegant in silhouette and design, and there was always a 'not quite' element to his work, especially the fabric treatments. Washed garments were not quite washed, or didn't appear to be worn down, blacks were often not quite a flat, direct black. Nothing simple yet nothing distinct; and this seeming contradiction set him apart like no other on Earth.

This is what I miss from Helmut Lang: As John Seabrook* once wrote, Helmut made simple clothes for a maximum number of situations. My vintage black cord jeans pair equally as well with a parka and boots as they do with a blazer and derby shoes. It's a relationship with your garments; not a loud, superficial or exciting relationship, but a functional and unforgettable one. My only clothing/fashion regret in my life is chasing the obvious and conspicuous and missing the quiet, whispered beauty that imbued a lot of his work.

I don't know if the new team at Helmut Lang recognize this element to his work or not, time will tell. All said, I hope Helmut Lang comes back; I'm graduating soon, and I need more dress shirts that don't act like dress shirts.

*Probably the best article written on Helmut Lang that I have ever read: http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/design/lang/index.html

[Servo2000]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

That is really a fantastic article, it hits just about everything I can thing of that made Lang so fantastic as well as so important. I remember the first time I read through the whole thing it was like having these vague "feelings" about his clothes finally put into words, he does a great job of explaining just the sort of thing you were talking about, mac user.

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

[quote user="macuser3of5"]See, I feel the real genius of Helmut Lang wasn't in bondage inserts in jackets, strange cuttings in shirts, or anything like that. Helmut Lang's lasting impression on me, and what first attracted me to the label, was the idea of a casual uniform. Something simple like a t-shirt and cord jeans are tremendously flexible and elegant in silhouette and design, and there was always a 'not quite' element to his work, especially the fabric treatments. Washed garments were not quite washed, or didn't appear to be worn down, blacks were often not quite a flat, direct black. Nothing simple yet nothing distinct; and this seeming contradiction set him apart like no other on Earth.

This is what I miss from Helmut Lang: As John Seabrook* once wrote, Helmut made simple clothes for a maximum number of situations. My vintage black cord jeans pair equally as well with a parka and boots as they do with a blazer and derby shoes. It's a relationship with your garments; not a loud, superficial or exciting relationship, but a functional and unforgettable one. My only clothing/fashion regret in my life is chasing the obvious and conspicuous and missing the quiet, whispered beauty that imbued a lot of his work.

I don't know if the new team at Helmut Lang recognize this element to his work or not, time will tell. All said, I hope Helmut Lang comes back; I'm graduating soon, and I need more dress shirts that don't act like dress shirts.

*Probably the best article written on Helmut Lang that I have ever read: http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/design/lang/index.html

[/quote]

Really well said - I don't know how I missed you post - thumbs up. I'm off to read the article you posted, but before that...

Can someone tell me what Tim Blanks is smoking - because I don't know WTF the following means (take from the slide show on the designers who will influence mensear in 2007 that's up on men.style.com)

Helmut Lang

Lang's credentials as a fashion influence are incontestable?but that
was then. His reach in 2007 rests on his attitude to the industry he
once ruled. By stepping away from the grind for a while, he's blazed a
trail that other designers can only gaze at longingly. As the
relentless fashion treadmill continues to gather speed, expect another
creative talent or two to break free and head for their own personal
hills in the coming year.

[Johnny]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



"Lang's credentials as a fashion influence are incontestable?but that was then."

Erm no. If they "are" incontestable, then this is now, not that was then. Muppet.

[rach2jlc]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

The new Lang site is up (not just the "Coming Soon!" front page). I'm TRYING not to be ambivalent... I really am...

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



[quote user="rach2jlc"]The new Lang site is up (not just the "Coming Soon!" front page). I'm TRYING not to be ambivalent... I really am...[/quote]

The website is actually well done, pretty Langish. I think the lack of clothes is apparent because there is nothing much to show. The list of stores is pathetic, 3 times as much in California than in New York, shows you something... Scoop birds will be happy.

[Chinorlz]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



I was just thinking about the Helmut Lang flagship in SoHo this morning. The open stark space with the accessories to the front left, and then the large bookcase sort of racks in the main room that held the clothes.

....ah, it was such a nice place.

What's Mr. Lang himself doing these days? I always wondered what happens to these big name people when they go underground for a while.

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

/\ I think they go to a Buddhist temple in Tibet to cleanse themselves of all the dirt the fashion world has heaped on them over the years.