Helmut Lang sans Lang

[rach2jlc]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



[quote user="Faust"]/\ I think they go to a Buddhist temple in Tibet to cleanse themselves of all the dirt the fashion world has heaped on them over the years.
[/quote]

In Lang's case, I suppose a $25,000,000 mansion, chickens, and a new boyfriend are attempting to do the same thing. ;)

[matthewhk]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

[quote user="macuser3of5"]See, I feel the real genius of Helmut Lang wasn't in bondage inserts in jackets, strange cuttings in shirts, or anything like that. Helmut Lang's lasting impression on me, and what first attracted me to the label, was the idea of a casual uniform. Something simple like a t-shirt and cord jeans are tremendously flexible and elegant in silhouette and design, and there was always a 'not quite' element to his work, especially the fabric treatments. Washed garments were not quite washed, or didn't appear to be worn down, blacks were often not quite a flat, direct black. Nothing simple yet nothing distinct; and this seeming contradiction set him apart like no other on Earth.

This is what I miss from Helmut Lang: As John Seabrook* once wrote, Helmut made simple clothes for a maximum number of situations. My vintage black cord jeans pair equally as well with a parka and boots as they do with a blazer and derby shoes. It's a relationship with your garments; not a loud, superficial or exciting relationship, but a functional and unforgettable one. My only clothing/fashion regret in my life is chasing the obvious and conspicuous and missing the quiet, whispered beauty that imbued a lot of his work.

[/quote]

Beautifully stated, in particular the part about having a relationship with one's garments. You have said exactly the kind of things I think about but could never express so eloquently in words.

[wild_whiskey]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

The truth of the matter to me, is that Helmut Lang has absolutely no connection whatsoever to the new brand. The name is the only thing that bares resemblence.

IMO the website is a testament to what the designers are doing with Lang's clothing - completely misinterpreting it. The fact that it has photos at all, as well as functional interactivity (links) is your first sign. The designers, being used to the clothing market, are aware of the shift towards monotonism in current style, and are selling that and using Lang's name as a stake for credibility.

Theory didn't buy the name because they wanted to continue Lang's legacy, they bought the name because they knew they could take elements of Lang's clothing that people are beginning to identify more with and sell it to them, using the established name as credibility. It's important to realize that this label has potential to produce some nice clothing. I already like some of what I've seen. But it's *NOT* Helmut Lang, in any way shape or form. It's a gross misinterpretation of what his aesthetic was, and a shrewd way to get a foot in the door of a blossoming market.

I have a feeling enough people are just starting to get a grasp of the Maurizio Altieri aesthetic and Helmut Lang being packaged as a mall brand is the first sign of things to come as far as the next wave of mainstream market fashion.

[rach2jlc]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



So, anybody have a chance to check out the new stuff in the stores yet? I'm curious to hear about materials, pricing, etc. and whether it's any better than we've been guessing...

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

[quote user="rach2jlc"]

So, anybody have a chance to check out the new stuff in the stores yet? I'm curious to hear about materials, pricing, etc. and whether it's any better than we've been guessing...

[/quote]

I'm curious to know too. Next time I'm in Barneys I'll check it out. From what I heard it's same shit as Theory.

[sbw4224]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

I looked it over a bit myself last week. I wasn't really impressed, although I cannot comment on the fit. 200 dollar tshirts, 300 dollar plus button-ups... prices were up there from what I remember.

[rach2jlc]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



Did you happen to notice where it was made? My guess is that they'll be using Theory's Chinese facilities, in which case those prices sound just absurd. Theory was overpriced from the start, so tacking on another 30% to that doesn't make much sense.

ShopBop online has some items and they looked like the over-produced Lang jeans and tees that smattered Yoox at discount during the Prada days, not the excellent runway pieces that sold out immediately. As we suspected, it looks as though this is becoming a less-interesting, less-innovative "Lang Jeans" at three times the price.

Anyway, I'll still check them out in person when I get the chance, but I predict this will last two seasons...

[Buckwheat]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



Helmut Lang Aoyama opening

[Casius]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

Well, despite having seen the clothing in person yet, I am going to go out on a limb and say, I kinda like it (the womenswear that is). I think I am generally drawn to a simple aesthetic, so some of the pieces appeal to me. Now whether or not they will be worth the price tag is a whole 'nother story.

[rach2jlc]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

I'll have to give the Aoyama store a thorough going over when I head back to Japan in June.

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

barneys has some stuff on the website. garbage. and the prices aren't far off from Helmut Lang - $115 tshirts, $275 buttonups.

[rach2jlc]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



[quote user="Faust"]barneys has some stuff on the website. garbage. and the prices aren't far off from Helmut Lang - $115 tshirts, $275 buttonups.
[/quote]

Snorrrre. I'll still look at it in person just to see (I owe the name at least that much), but it looks like Theory... plus $50 per shirt.

[Casius]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

Went and checked out some of it and it is very underwhelming and does remind me a lot of Theory's clothing. There's no 'spirit' anymore...

[Johnny]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang

looks crap to me. Or more accurately, it looks OK, a bit like Theory or APC, but i really fail to see the point in calling this Helmut Lang.The business end of fashion at its worst.

[Faust]

Re: Helmut Lang sans Lang



[quote user="Johnny"]looks crap to me. Or more accurately, it looks OK, a bit like Theory or APC, but i really fail to see the point in calling this Helmut Lang.The business end of fashion at its worst.[/quote]

I think John addressed that above, "..looks like Theory... plus $50 per shirt."