Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW08 Paris

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="Servo2000"]

As far as my own aesthetic goes, I'd love to see this piece for men / possibly give this one a shot. This piece / image is the perfect balance between the now-dubbed "Arte Povera" designers of SZ and the tailored futurism of Simons et all that I think is one of the most prominent "holes" in todays fashion design world. There are occasionally individual pieces that strike me as crossing the line, but so far no one has devoted themselves to the idea.

I'll gather my thoughts more, but this piece in particular struck so quickly that I can't help but comment.

Definitely one of the strongest collections this season for women, alongside Jil Sander.

[/quote]

Please do [Y]

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris



Finally got some closeups. I predict the prices for these leather pieces will be not for the faint-hearted (even by SZ standards).

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[Servo2000]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="Faust"]

Please do [Y]

[/quote]

To elaborate: this piece seems to balance the "artisan" ideals and sensibilities of our Poells and Carpe Diems alongside the futurism of Raf. The color and styling are strikingly modern (the rolled sleeves, to me, evoke images of youth and forward-movement through travel). Same thing with the "glasses" which verge on looking like goggles. However, as is evidenced by the nature of the leather and the way in which it is worked, it never for a moment abandons it's highly personal, likely hand-constructed nature either.

This fills a hole to me that occupies a space between current futurists designing clothing that seems to argue for a future devoid of hand-labor and garment personality and rather for mass construction of clothing and current-and-forward looking "artisans" who seem most interested in creating pieces that are reminiscent of times past or the dangers of the future (via the commonly dubbed "post-apocalyptic" styling of Julius and co).

The romantic nature of this collection, and this piece, seems to argue for a future in which garments remain both highly personal and yet largely unlike items produced in the past.

There are Poell pieces which have struck me in a similar manner, namely some of the leather survival-and-military inspired coats in highly artificial colors (the extreme yellow and whites) but these still seem to suggest a darker rather than a more romantic future, which to me is more an ideal of preparing for rather than looking toward the future.

I'm still considering, and ideas may change, but that seems to bring my ideas in the right general direction, at least.

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

Gotcha. I can see why you like Aitor Throup so much.

[laika]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris



Beautifully articulated, Servo, and I like what you said so much.[51][51]

It really suggests a way forward at a time that is so saturated with so-called "futurism" (esp. of the Ghesquiere variety, but also Raf), on the one hand, and quasi-nostalgic handmades on the other. And also a way of reconciling someone as old school as Yohji with younger aesthetic interests.

What do we have to do to get more post like that, dammit! [^o)]

[Casius]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

Well, you have to be as articulate as my man Servo for one...lol. Great post btw Servo.

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="laika"]

Beautifully articulated, Servo, and I like what you said so much.[51][51]

It really suggests a way forward at a time that is so saturated with so-called "futurism" (esp. of the Ghesquiere variety, but also Raf), on the one hand, and quasi-nostalgic handmades on the other. And also a way of reconciling someone as old school as Yohji with younger aesthetic interests.

What do we have to do to get more post like that, dammit! [^o)]

[/quote]

One obviously has to be self-aware and intelligent, duh!

[laika]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="Faust"]

One obviously has to be self-aware and intelligent, duh!

[/quote]

Are you mad at me because I don't hate Karl Lagerfeld? [76]

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="laika"][quote user="Faust"]

One obviously has to be self-aware and intelligent, duh!

[/quote]

Are you mad at me because I don't hate Karl Lagerfeld? [76]

[/quote]

No, no. I was just kidding! How can I be mad at you?! [51][64]

[laika]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="Faust"]

No, no. I was just kidding! How can I be mad at you?! [51][64]

[/quote]

ok, cool. [H] [51]

Another pic of the troop of school girls. I really love the bags, although I don't want to even think about how much a Yohji-Hermes collaboration is going to cost. [79]

[matthewhk]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="Servo2000"][quote user="Faust"]

Please do [Y]

[/quote]

To elaborate: this piece seems to balance the "artisan" ideals and sensibilities of our Poells and Carpe Diems alongside the futurism of Raf. The color and styling are strikingly modern (the rolled sleeves, to me, evoke images of youth and forward-movement through travel). Same thing with the "glasses" which verge on looking like goggles. However, as is evidenced by the nature of the leather and the way in which it is worked, it never for a moment abandons it's highly personal, likely hand-constructed nature either.

This fills a hole to me that occupies a space between current futurists designing clothing that seems to argue for a future devoid of hand-labor and garment personality and rather for mass construction of clothing and current-and-forward looking "artisans" who seem most interested in creating pieces that are reminiscent of times past or the dangers of the future (via the commonly dubbed "post-apocalyptic" styling of Julius and co).

The romantic nature of this collection, and this piece, seems to argue for a future in which garments remain both highly personal and yet largely unlike items produced in the past.

There are Poell pieces which have struck me in a similar manner, namely some of the leather survival-and-military inspired coats in highly artificial colors (the extreme yellow and whites) but these still seem to suggest a darker rather than a more romantic future, which to me is more an ideal of preparing for rather than looking toward the future.

I'm still considering, and ideas may change, but that seems to bring my ideas in the right general direction, at least.

[/quote]

I agree with what you said, and i'd also like to note that you write very articulately and thoughtfully for someone your age.

[Avantster]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris



[quote user="laika"]I really love the bags, although I don't want to even think about how much a Yohji-Hermes collaboration is going to cost. [79][/quote]

Think no more, laika! RSG awaits. [79]

Yohji Yamamoto for Hermes Shoulder Bag, $7,350 to $8,450

The next "it" bag? That's anyone's guess. Still, collectors might want
to head to Hermes where they will find Yohji Yamamoto's limited edition
shoulder bag in warm brown Barenia calfskin. The luxury good maker has
produced 100 in three different sizes; each is available by special
order only at the following Hermes locations: Paris (Faubourg
Saint-Honoré), Tokyo (Ginza), New York (Madison Avenue and Wall Street)
and London (New Bond Street).

http://blogs.forbes.com/findoftheday...amamoto-f.html

Very well said Servo, fantastic post. Will comment more tonight.

[Avantster]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

[quote user="Servo2000"]


This
fills a hole to me that occupies a space between current futurists
designing clothing that seems to argue for a future devoid of
hand-labor and garment personality and rather for mass construction of
clothing and current-and-forward looking "artisans" who seem most
interested in creating pieces that are reminiscent of times past or the
dangers of the future (via the commonly dubbed "post-apocalyptic"
styling of Julius and co).

The romantic nature of this
collection, and this piece, seems to argue for a future in which
garments remain both highly personal and yet largely unlike items
produced in the past.

There are Poell pieces which have struck
me in a similar manner, namely some of the leather
survival-and-military inspired coats in highly artificial colors (the
extreme yellow and whites) but these still seem to suggest a darker
rather than a more romantic future, which to me is more an ideal of
preparing for rather than looking toward the future.

[/quote]

I agree that this clothing does seem to fill the gap between the 'futurists' and 'artisans' you describe so eloquently.

But IMO Yohji is not a designer that looks towards the future. In fact, by his own words, he generally does not take interest in, nor even believes in the future. Instead he fixes his gaze towards what is 'now' and more importantly, the time where 'now' actually ceases to be now.

I believe this collection, and the piece you put forward, in fact looks at the ever disappearing 'artisans' of this world, and their consumption by the machine of fashion in the name of 'progress' into, to use your words, "a future devoid of
hand-labor and garment personality".

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear F/W 08.09 Paris

/\ I agree. I also think that Poell is extremely modern - I don't know any other designer who matches Poell in taking traditional tailoring and making it contemporary.